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Vine bud, new vintage on its way, Haut Brion in March 2009

Weather conditions

2008 started during the first two months reasonably quiet, with temperatures, rainfall, and sunshine days less normal than the average year. March was rainy and not that sunny. At the beginning of April, frost affected Sauternes & Barsac district, which resulted in losing 50-60% of potential grapes for several properties in Barsac.

The overcast and rainy weather resulted in uneven flowering, and mildew was present in several places. July raised hopes with sunny and dry weather, but winegrowers' mood barometer fell considerably during the rather cold and overcast weather. September gave a lot of sunshine and almost no rain. At the beginning of the month, October was a mixed bag, but the sun returned soon after.

Harvest 2008 was very long due to uneven ripeness in the vineyards. Some winegrowers finished their Cabernets at the end of October. The outbreak of rain didn't affect vines much since their vegetation cyclus was finished, so the roots didn't take water in. It was the so-called phenolic ripeness of the skins which was very important.

Cold nights and dry weather resulted in slow ripening and preserving aromas. Mother Nature compensated somewhat for the lack of sunshine during some months of 2008, and September and October turned the looming catastrophe into a much-needed success.

Yields were generally low in 2008 due to drastic selection in the vineyards.

White dry Bordeaux did exceptionally well in 2008 and is almost as thrilling as vintage 2007, considered exceptional. 2008's force is the incredibly seductive aromatic touch and fruitness. White sweet Bordeaux also challenged the 2007 vintage - maybe not as concentrated, but extremely elegant.

Red 2008 is particularly successful on the Right Bank and Pessac-Leognan. Left Bank has ups and downs, but Pauillac was the most successful district there.

There are 256 wines rated - among several wines, Calon Segur, Cos d'Estournel, L'Eglise Clinet, La Fleur Petrus, Latour-a-Pomerol, Leoville Las Cases, Pichon Baron, Petrus and Trotanoy were not tasted. Barrel samples concerning wines from Listrac and Moulis were far too old at the time of tasting and, therefore, not reviewed here. On the same occasion, barrel samples from Margaux commune were also found too old, but we're all retasted two days later at Marquis de Terme, with much better performance for many Margaux wines.

SAUTERNES & BARSAC

d'Yquem was intense on the nose with pear and apricots, velvety, very sophisticated, with excellent structure and great length. Finished with acacia honey. Awesome stuff. 96-98p.

Climens offered a fabulous showing of breathtaking elegance, purity, and wonderful balance. 95-97p.

Doisy-Daëne was very powerful on the nose with many botrytised apricot, peach, and pear aromas, showing great depth, balance, and length. Grapes destined for luxury cuvée Extravagant went in here because of minuscule quantity due to frost and raised the quality considerably. Excellent wine. 94-95p.

Suduiraut showed big shoulders, big concentration, splendid acidity, and corresponding fruit with flavors of mango and apricot. Extremely well-made wine. 93-95p.

Nairac was very grapefruity on the nose, intensely deep, with fine acidity and structure, botrytised flavors of honey melon and apricot. Long on the palate with a graceful aftertaste. Very precise and thoughtful winemaking. Terrific effort. 92-95p.

Raymond Lafon showed an elegant and sophisticated side of itself, with acidity matching fruit sweetness perfectly. This was a wine with a lovely structure and great style. 92-95p. De Fargues was just as impressive. 92-95p.

Clos Haut Peyraguey, Coutet, and La Tour Blanche followed closely after, with delightful sweetness and acidity, peach and pear, and dried apricots. Long and smooth finish. 92-94p.

Guiraud was close to the above wines (Clos Haut Peyraguey....) with less intensity and depth. Terrific quality here too. 92-93p.

Lafaurie Peyraguey showed spicy flavors, oak, power, a strong backbone, and a long aftertaste. One to watch in the future. 90-93p.

D'Arche, Caillou, and Doisy Vedrines gave a fine performance with a fine intensity of flavors and a glorious interplay between acidity and fruit. Well-made wines. 89p.

Rieussec was somewhat closed and showed only some moments of its fine quality. I bet, however, it will vastly improve when in the bottle. 88-92p?

Rabaud Promis, Sigalas Rabaud, and Suau performed nicely with seductive, fruity, elegant, and well-balanced wines. 88p.

OK wines: Filhot, Myrat, and Rayne Vigneau (all 87p), de Malle (86-90? Old sample?), Bastor Lamontagne, Broustet, Lamothe Guignard and Romer du Hayot (all 86p) and Lamothe (85p).

PÉSSAC-LÉOGNAN

Red wines:

Haut Brion - 35% of the harvest into Grand Vin, 41% Merlot + 50% Cabernet Sauvignon + 9% Cabernet Franc. Strong, dark cherries on nose and palate, intense, very long, mineral, velvety, and with astonishing balance. Wonderful effort. 96-97p.

La Mission Haut Brion - 40% of the harvest into Grand Vin, 43% Merlot + 51% Cabernet Sauvignon + 6% Cabernet Franc. Velvety all over, silky fruit and tannins, exquisite and sophisticated, fabulous balance. Exceptional wine. 95-96p.

Domaine de Chevalier - harvest finished on the 25th of October(!!), 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, and 7% Petit Verdot, Petit Verdot was ripe before Cabernet Sauvignon (!!). Intense and aromatic on the nose with black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid depth and length, smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 91-93p.

Haut Bergey was strong and fleshy, packed with blackcurrants and cherries, fine depth and structure, and ripe fruit and tannins. Splendid effort. 90-93p.

Carbonnieux and La Louviere were big, strong, powerful, with ripe black fruit, deep and well-structured. Terrific wines. 90-92p.

Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte made an oaky and meaty wine with enough ripe, aromatic, fresh red-/blackcurrants to balance tannins. Fine efforts for the vintage. 90-92p.

Le Clarence de Haut Brion was round, nicely balanced, had a soft texture, sweet cherry fruit, and splendid structure. 90p.

Larrivet Haut Brion had fine intensity and concentration, silky fruit and tannins, splendid balance, fine length, and finish. 89-91p.

La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion was mineral, earthy, with a good tannin grip and fine balance. 89-90p.

La Tour Martillac reminded me much of Larrivet Haut Brion but was slightly lighter. 89-90p.

Malartic Lagraviere and Haut Bailly were fleshy, medium body, fine fruit and tannins, fine structure, and length. Very nice effort for both. 89p.

Les Carmes Haut Brion, Chantegrive, Cruzeau, de France, Olivier, and Picque Caillou were elegant, round wines with nice fruit intensity and harmony. 88p.

OK wines: Ferrande 86p. Bouscaut and Couhins Lurton 86-87p. De Fieuzal and Clos Marsalette 87p.

Dry white wines:

Haut Brion Blanc - 41% of the harvest into Grand Vin, 55% Semillon + 45% Sauvignon Blanc. Intense aromas of pear, pineapple, and acacia flower, formidably knitted together, impeccable balance, and long, caressingly soft aftertaste. Fantastic stuff. 96-97p.

Laville Haut Brion - 44% of the harvest into Grand Vin, 79% Semillon + 21% Sauvignon Blanc. Great intensity of lemon, mango, and apricot flavors supported by great acidity and balance. Awesome wine. 95-96p.

Domaine de Chevalier - harvest finished on 3rd October (!!), small yield of 27 hl/ha, 3-4 selections in the vineyard, 75% Sauvignon Blanc + 25% Semillon. Very open, incredibly aromatic with lemon and pineapple, and attractive, tasty, and smooth, caressing aftertaste. This was a magnificent showing! 95-96p.

Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte were a bit subdued on the nose, oaky, but the palate was singing well. Dense, well-knitted wines with fine acidity and strong finish. 91-93p.

Haut Bergey, La Louviere, and La Tour Martillac were slightly below Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte. 90-93p.

Cruzeau, Couhins Lurton, and Malartic Lagraviere showed fine, ripe fruit, acacia flower, pear, and pineapple aromas, fine concentration on the palate, balance, and smooth aftertaste. Splendid effort. 90-92p.

Carbonnieux showed fine acidity, intensity, and structure. Nicely put together and has a fine balance. Apple, pineapple, and pear. A very fine effort. 90-91p.

de Fieuzal, de France, and Olivier were aromatic, charming, nice acidity, and a bit light on the toes. Smooth and round finish. Nice wines. 89p.

Chantegrive Cuvée Caroline and Picque Caillou offered aromatic nose, very nice acidity, elegance, finesse, apples, pear, and acacia flower. Very nice wines, indeed. 88p.

OK wine: Ferrande 87p.

MÉDOC

OK wine: Greysac. 86p.

HAUT-MÉDOC

Cantemerle, Coufran and La Tour Carnet impressed a lot. All three were very fruity (dark berries) on the nose, ripe grapes, seductive and charming, intense, and delightfully balanced. Splendid length and gracious aftertaste. Heartbreaker wines. Terrific effort for the vintage. 88-89p.

Belgrave and Citran had ripe fruit on the nose, were attractive and charming, had a very nice structure on the palate, were fruity with cherries, and had a well-balanced and smooth aftertaste. A fine effort for the vintage. 87-88p.

OK wines: Camensac and Lamarque (86-87p) and Beaumont (86p).

MARGAUX

Margaux is always gracious, always stylish, always extremely elegant and sophisticated. In 2008, this wine had a velvety structure and velvety tannins. Simply awesome wine. 95-96p.

Palmer had a seductive aroma of dark cherries, great intensity, silky tannins, and a graceful finish. A very stylish and sophisticated wine with extreme elegance. 94-95p.

Pavillon Rouge contained a whole 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and impressed a lot. Ripe, smooth, great balance, catchy fruit sweetness, and a delightful soft finish. 90-92p.

Malescot St.Euxpery offered strong wine with ripe dark cherries, well-knitted, harmonious, and a firm aftertaste. Splendid effort for the vintage. 89-91p.

Alter Ego was subtle and elegant, with ripe berries and ripe tannin, round and smooth on the aftertaste. 89-90p.

Giscours showed a fine intensity of black fruit with fresh flavors, silky tannins, splendid depth, length, fine balance, and a firm finish. Splendid wine for the vintage, 88-90p. Alter Ego was of the same quality, subtle and elegant. 88p.

Kirwan was a tad lighter than Giscours and more elegant. A splendid effort here too. 88-89p.

Dauzac, Desmirail, Ferriere, Labegorce, Marquis de Terme, Monbrison, Marquis de Terme, and Rauzan Segla offered silky dark fruit, elegance, fine concentration, charm, and fine balance. 88p.

D'Angludet, Bellevue de Tayac, Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Lascombes (disappointing!), and Rauzan Gassies were all delicate and round wines but on the light side and a tad too short on the palate. 87p.

OK wine: Boyd Cantenac. 86p.

SAINT-JULIEN

Leoville Barton had ripe, intense fruit on the nose, great depth, and classy. Finesse, elegance, and strong structure. Large quantities of ripe cherries perfectly matched by ripe, smooth tannins. Long aftertaste. Excellent effort for the vintage. 93-95p.

Leoville Poyferre was extremely well-made, all in black wild cherries. Elegant, sophisticated, and gracefully balanced. Gracious aftertaste. Almost up to Leoville Barton in terms of quality. Fabulous wine. 93-94p

Langoa Barton offered a nice deep nose of dark fruit, fine structure and length, nice aftertaste, and depth. Splendid effort for the vintage. 91-93p.

Beychevelle and Branaire were light but extremely elegant, with charm and finesse. Feminine wines will offer a lot of pleasure. 89-90p.

Gruaud Larose, Lagrange, St. Pierre, and Talbot were dark, intense on the nose with blackberries, a good bite on the palate with nice fruit, smooth and nice aftertaste. Very nice wines. 88p.

PAUILLAC

Lafite offered great intensity of aromas and flavors, silky tannins, robust structure, excellent balance, and depth. Among the best wines of the vintage. 95-96p.

Latour was silky in fruit and tannins with exquisite balance. Very complex, very deep, and very seductive, with a long finish. 94-96p.

Mouton Rothschild had the same goodies as Latour but seemed a bit lighter. 94-95p.

Pontet Canet was real stuff! Extremely aromatic and intense with sweet black cherries, strong structure, excellent balance, and stunning length. Sophisticated and nuanced. Excellent effort. 94-95p.

Pichon Comtesse had elegant, silky fruit, sappy and fleshy, very nice length and aftertaste. Charming and aromatic on the nose. Splendid effort. 91-93p

d'Armailhac, Haut Bages Liberal, and Lynch Bages were very charming on the nose with sweet ripe fruit, intense, many goodies on the palate, and a silky and gracious finish. Seductive wines and splendid effort. 90-91p.

Batailley and Croizet Bages (!) had plenty of ripe, round, aromatic, and seductive fruit. Splendid dark berry intensity and concentration and firm aftertaste. I liked them both! 89-90p. Carruaders de Lafite, Les Forts de Latour, and Petit Mouton offered strong, well-knitted wines with fine grip on the palate, fine concentration of red-/blackcurrants, and a fine firm finish. 89-90p.

Clerc Milon and Grand Puy Ducasse did almost as well as Batailley and Croizet Bages. Well-made wines.88-89p

Lynch Moussas showed nice intensity and concentration of dark fruit, tight and fine structure. Very nice balance and a firm finish. 88p.

Duhart Milon was tannic and unwilling to "speak", but there were promises of a rounder and more charming shape very soon. 87p. Pauillac de Chateau Latour offered good concentration, grip, balance, and a smooth aftertaste. Good showing for 3rd wine. 87p.

SAINT-ÉSTEPHE

Montrose had silky fruit and tannin, a strong backbone, great depth and length, splendid balance, and a firm aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 92-94p

Dame de Montrose was impressive for a second wine to be. Strong, quite tannic, and good grip. 88-90p.

Ormes de Pez offered sweet, silky fruit with very nice intensity, length, structure, depth, and balance. Heartbreaker wine and splendid effort. 88p. Phelan Segur and Tronquoy Lalande broke several wine hearts, too, with tasty, harmonious, and seductive wines. 88p.

Cos Labory and Lafon Rochet offered sappy, nice dark fruit, nice intensity, and structure, round and charming attitude. 87p.

SAINT-ÉMILION

Ausone had plenty of dark fruit /blackberries/blueberries) and silky tannins and was fleshy, sophisticated, mega long on the palate, and perfectly balanced. Simply exceptional. 96-97p.

Cheval Blanc doesn't normally make me overly impressed during primeur tasting. However, it was different when tasting a barrel sample from the 2008 vintage because of the perfect maturity for Cabernet Franc in this vintage. Plenty of perfectly ripe fruit, silky ripe tannins, pure elegance, finesse, and sophisticated touch combined with excellent balance and a long smooth finish. Simply exceptional. 96-97p.

Pavie was strong and sappy like a bear with impeccable depth, balance, and aftertaste. Lots of ripe fruit and ripe tannin backed up by a strong backbone and excellent structure. For once, Pavie in 2008 doesn't look over-extracted and modern - it looks like true St. Emilion wine. 95-96p.

Tertre Roteboeuf did it once again! Magnifique wine, sensual, full of dark fruit like blueberries, blackberries, and black cherries. Opulent, sophisticated, excellent depth, and excellent balance. Smooth like honey on the aftertaste. 94-96p.

Bellevue Mondotte and Pavie Decesse had strong backbone and intensity, plenty of sweet ripe berries with fine support of oak, great length and depth, terrific balance, and a pretty long aftertaste. Stunning wines. 94-95p.

La Mondotte was very concentrated, velvety, wonderfully balanced, and with great length. Simply excellent. 94-95p. Pavie Macquin and Valandraud were incredibly aromatic with great intensity and depth, big and strongly structured on the palate, and perfectly balanced. Excellent effort, both of them. 94-95p.

La Confession had a strong backbone, concentration, fatness, opulence, depth, and length on the palate. Awesome balance and a long firm aftertaste. Another hit from highly talented Jean-Philippe Janoueix. 93-95p.

Angelus was quite extracted, oaky, and strong, with sweet fruit and a long aftertaste. Modern style. 92p.

Monbousquet had a great nose and palate full of ripe blackberries and wild cherries, terrific depth, structure, and length. Stupendous wine. 91-93p.

Grand Mayne was very close to Monbousquet in terms of quality. 91-92p.

Clos Fourtet and Figeac were fine, seductive, and aromatic on the nose with great intensity and depth. Ripe fruit well supported by ripe tannins. Quite a long aftertaste. 90-93p.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere and Larcis Ducasse reminded me a lot of Clos Fourtet and Figeac but showed less concentration and intensity. Splendid wines. 90-92p.

Troplong Mondot was strong and concentrated but also very oaky and difficult to assess. 90-92p?

Beau-Séjour Becot, Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, Canon, Dassault, Fleur Cardinale, Franc Mayne, La Gaffeliere, Lynsolence, and Magrez Fombrauge were meaty and fleshy wines with a significant aroma of black cherries, splendidly balanced and well-structured. Smooth aftertaste. Well-deserved 90-91p for all of these wines.

Trottevieille provided very smoky fruit aromas, ripe wild cherries, fine balance, and fine length on the palate. Terrific. 90-91p.

Belair- Monange, Magdelaine, and Virginie de Valandraud showed sweet fruit, roundness, elegance, and splendid structure. 90p.

Grand Corbin Despagne was aromatic, chewy, and with a strong structure. 89-91p.

Barde Haut, Chapelle de Ausone, Clos Badon Thunevin, Clos de Baies, Destieux, Faugéres Cuvée Péby, Larmande, Moulin St. Georges and Le Petit Cheval. Well-made wines with splendid ripe fruit and splendid balance. 89-90p.

La Tour du Pin (the same owner as Cheval Blanc) had nice silky fruit and tannins and a round, lovely structure and balance. 89p.

Cap de Mourlin, Clos de L'Oratoire, La Dominique, Fonbel, Ferrand Lartigue - same style as La Tour du Pin. 88-89p.

Balestard La Tonnelle, Faugeres, Fombrauge, Haut Simard, La Gomerie, Quinault L'Enclos, Sansonnet - well-made round wines. 88p.

Berliquet and La Couspade - nice quality. 87-88p.

OK wines: Simard. 87p. Bellevue. 86p.

POMEROL

Le Pin showed fresh and silky texture, great finesse, sophisticated touch, and stunning length. Fascinating wine. 95-96p.

Le Gay blended 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. An explosion of blueberry/blackberry fruit, sophisticated, long, and velvety. As stunning as vintage 2005 and will be even better in the future. 95p.

VCC had an unmistakable aroma of violets and dark berries on the nose, intense, splendidly constructed, elegant, long aftertaste. Awesome wine. 95p. The final blend will probably be 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Lafleur offered ripe and silky tannins, exquisite balance, sophisticated touch, richness, and long aftertaste. Simply excellent. 94-95p.

La Croix St.Georges was broad-shouldered, massive, with many black cherries, great depth, and long firm aftertaste. 93-95p.

La Conseillante appeared velvety and aromatic all over, with pure elegance and sophisticated touch so typical for this property, long and graceful finish. A delight. 93-94p.

La Violette was 100% Merlot and only will be 900 bottles available for sale. Blueberries and blackberries, clear aroma of truffles (crasse de fer - iron dirt), deep and very long on the palate with a silky aftertaste. 93-94p.

Clos L'Eglise offered chewy stuff in modern style, a lot of ripe fruit and tannin in splendid harmony and firm finish. Terrific wine for the vintage. 93p.

Bon Pasteur was full-bodied with a strong backbone, meaty, ripe fruit and tannin everywhere, splendid balance, structure, and firm finish. 90-92p. La Clemence and Gazin were as splendid but more refined, elegant, and with a graceful aftertaste. 90-92p.

Bourgneuf Vayron appeared strong, chewy, ripe, and with fine tannins. Dark cherries, long and strongly structured. Terrific effort for the vintage. 90-91p. Certan de May showed violets, freshness, wild cherries aromas, and more elegance than Bourgneuf Vayron. Promising future. 90-91p

Clinet offered a meaty texture, silky fruit, fine aromas of black cherries, fine balance, structure, and smooth aftertaste. 89-90p.

Pensées de Lafleur was concentrated with a very nice length and structure powerful and firm finish. Very fine for a second wine. 89-90p.

Montviel showed very well for its status. It was intense on the nose, tight, aromatic, dark berries, and had a nice velvety finish. 88-89p.

Duo de Conseillante performed with aplomb for a second wine with cherry aromas, fine structure, and fine finish. 88p.

La Cabanne, La Croix de Gay, La Fleur de Gay, La Pointe, and Vieux Maillet were all-round, harmonious wines with good intensity and length on the palate. 87-88p.

Beau Soleil, La Croix, Domaine Fayat-Thunevin, and Feytit Clinet had a fruity attitude, silkiness, a round and pleasant texture, and a reasonable finish. 87p.

Better luck next time: Beauregard (85-86p) and Petit Village (85p).

BORDEAUX/BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR/PREMIÈRES CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

20 Mille from in-form winemaker Jean-Philippe Janouiex (La Confession) is 100% Merlot wine. Meaty wine, splendidly aromatic with fine tannins, splendid balance, and long aftertaste. 89p.

La Croix Mouton and Le Conseiller showed very well with strong backbone, fresh cherry flavors, silky fruit, ripe tannins, and fine length. 88p.

Bad Boy, made by Jean-Luc Thunevin, was chewy, aromatic with blueberries and blackberries, tasty wine, harmonious and round. 88p.

Reignac impressed like Bad Boy. 88p.

Pavillon Blanc de Margaux was stunningly impressive. Very intense acacia flower, citrus, mango aromas, great acidity, formidable structure, and long finish. 93-95p.

Grand Village white, made by Sylvie and Jacques Guinaudeau (Lafleur), was splendid wine with intense acacia flower flavors, fresh acidity, and lovely balance. 88-89p.

CÔTES DE BOURG

Roc de Cambes was powerful, strong, and intense on the nose with blueberries and black cherries, with splendid balance and firm aftertaste containing ripe flavors. Terrific effort. 90-91p.

CÔTES DE CASTILLON

Veyry provided aromatic black cherries, tight structure, balance, and finish. An extremely seductive wine. 90-91p.

Joanin Becot was almost as impressive as Veyry, with less fruit intensity and a shorter aftertaste. 89-90p.

D'Aiguilhe, Cap Faugeres, Clos L'Eglise, and Clos Lunelles were well-made wines with perfumed and tasty dark berries, fine composition, and a smooth aftertaste. 89p.

Domaine de L'Aurage showed very nice fruit, structure, and length. Well-made wine. 88p.

OK wine - Sainte Colombe. 86-87p.

CÔTES DE FRANCS

de Francs was meaty, with ripe fruit, ripe tannins, a nice length, and with nice aftertaste. Delicious wine. 87-88p.

FRONSAC/CANON-FRONSAC

Moulin Pey Labrie turned out to be a big surprise and revelation. Beautifully scented aroma of black cherries. Fabulous intensity, beautiful structure, length, and formidable balance. Mouthfilling. Fabulous stuff. 90-92p.

Fontenil appeared aromatic on the nose with black cherries, strong, fine balance, and depth. 89-90p. Les Trois Croix was similar to Fontenil and as impressive. 89-90p. Terrific stuff.

La Riviere showed perfectly ripe black fruit, fine intensity, concentration, and harmony between fruit and ripe tannin. Very fine wine. 89p.

La Dauphine had pretty aromatic cherry fruit, fine balance, ripe tannins, and smooth aftertaste. Splendid wine. 88-89p.

Barrabaque was strong, chewy, well-balanced, and with tasty dark cherry fruit. Fine length. Splendid wine.88p.

Moulin Haut Laroque, Vieille Cure, and Villars presented a strong backbone, nice ripe fruit, and quite much oak but a nice balance. I need some time to soften. 87-88p.

LALANDE-DE-POMEROL

L'Ambroisie du Chateau La Croix des Moines and La Graviere were successful for the district, showing large amounts of ripe, aromatic, and tasty fruit, strong backbone, nice acidity, and splendid balance. 88-89p.

de Chambrun, La Fleur de Bouard, Grand Ormeau, and Domaine des Sabines were modern dark wines, quite powerful and well-structured, with nice ripe fruit and tannin. 88p.

Tournefeuille had almost the same good stuff as four wines mentioned above. 87-88p.

OK wine - Domaine Fayat Thunevin. 87p.

RATINGS

d'Aiguilhe Côtes de Castillon 89 Alter Ego de Palmer Margaux 89-90 L'Ambroisie du Ch. La Croix St.Moines Lalande de Pomerol 88-89 Angélus St-Emilion GC 92 d'Angludet Margaux 87 d'Arche Sauternes & Barsac 89 d'Armailhac Pauillac 90-91 Ausone St-Emilion GC 96-97 Bad Boy Bordeaux 88 Balestard La Tonnelle St-Emilion GC 88 Barde-Haut St-Emilion GC 89-90

Barrabaque Canon-Fronsac 88 Bastor Lamontagne Sauternes & Barsac 86 Batailley Pauillac 89-90 Beau-Séjour Bécot St-Emilion GC 90-91 Beaumont Haut-Médoc 86 Beauregard Pomerol 85-86 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse St-Emilion GC 90-91 Beau Soleil Pomerol 87 Belair-Monange St-Emilion GC 90 Belgrave Haut-Médoc 87-88 Bellevue St-Emilion GC 86 Bellevue de Tayac Margaux 87 Bellevue Mondotte St-Emilion GC 94-95

Berliquet St-Emilion GC 87-88 Beychevelle St-Julien 89-90 Bon Pasteur Pomerol 90-92 Bourgneuf-Vayron Pomerol 90-91 Bouscaut Pessac-Léognan 86-87 Boyd-Cantenac Margaux 86 Branaire St-Julien 89-90 Brane-Cantenac Margaux 87 Broustet Sauternes & Barsac 86 La Cabanne Pomerol 87-88 Caillou Sauternes & Barsac 89 de Camensac Haut-Médoc 86-87 Canon St-Emilion GC 90-91 Canon-La-Gaffelière St-Emilion GC 90-92

Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 88-89 Cantenac-Brown Margaux 87 Cap de Faugères Côtes de Castillon 89 Cap de Mourlin St-Emilion GC 88-89 Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan 90-92 Carbonnieux white Pessac-Léognan 90-91Les Carmes Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 88 Carruades de Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 89-90 Certan de May de Certan Pomerol 90-91 de Chambrun Lalande de Pomerol 88 Chantegrive Graves 88 Chantegrive white Graves 90-92

Chapelle d'Ausone St-Emilion GC 89-90 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 89-90 Cheval Blanc St-Emilion GC 96-97 Citran Haut-Médoc 87-88 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 90 La Clémence Pomerol 90-92 Clerc Milon Pauillac 88-89 Climens Sauternes & Barsac 95-97 Clinet Pomerol 89-90 Clos Badon Thunevin St-Emilion GC 89-90 Clos des Baies St-Emilion GC 89-90 Clos de l'Oratoire St-Emilion GC 88-89

Clos Fourtet St-Emilion GC 90-93 Clos Haut Peyraguey Sauternes & Barsac 92-94 Clos l'Eglise Pomerol 93 Clos l'Eglise Côtes de Castillon 89 Clos les Lunelles Côtes de Castillon 89 Clos Marsalette Pessac-Léognan 87 La Confession St-Emilion GC 93-95 La Conseillante Pomerol 93-94 Le Conseiller Bordeaux Superieur 88 Coufran Haut-Médoc 88-89 Couhins-Lurton Pessac-Léognan 86-87 Couhins-Lurton white Pessac-Léognan 90-92

Cos-Labory St-Estèphe 87 La Couspaude St-Emilion GC 87-88 Coutet Sauternes & Barsac 92-94 La Croix Saint-Georges Pomerol 93-95 La Croix Pomerol 87 La Croix de Gay Pomerol 87-88 Croix Mouton Bordeaux Superieur 88 Croizet-Bages Pauillac 89-90 Cruzeau Pessac-Léognan 88 Cruzeau white Pessac-Léognan 90-92 La Dame de Montrose St-Estèphe 89-90 Dassault St-Emilion GC 90-91

de La Dauphine Fronsac 88-89 Dauzac Margaux 88 Desmirail Margaux 88 Destieux St-Emilion GC 89-90 Doisy Daene Sauternes & Barsac 94-95 Doisy Vedrines Sauternes & Barsac 89 Domaine de l'Aurage Côtes de Castillon 88p Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 91-93 Domaine de Chevalier blanc Pessac-Léognan 95-96 Domaine Fayat-Thunevin Lalande de Pomerol 87 Domaine Fayat-Thunevin Pomerol 87

Domaine des Sabines Lalande de Pomerol 88 La Dominique St-Emilion GC 88-89 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Pauillac 87 Duo de Conseillante Pomerol 88 de Fargues Sauternes & Barsac 92-95 Faugères St-Emilion GC 88 Faugères Cuvée Péby St-Emilion GC 89-90 Ferrande Graves 86 Ferrande white Graves 87 Ferrand Lartigue St-Emilion GC 88-89 Ferrière Margaux 88 Feytit-Clinet Pomerol 87 de Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan 87 de Fieuzal white Pessac-Léognan 89 Figeac St-Emilion GC 90-93

Filhot Sauternes & Barsac 87 Fleur Cardinale St-Emilion GC 90-91 La Fleur de Boüard Lalande de Pomerol 88 La Fleur de Gay Pomerol 87-88 Fombrauge St-Emilion GC 88 de Fonbel St-Emilion GC 88-89 Fontenil Fronsac 89-90 Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 89-90 Fougas Maldoror Côtes de Bourg 89-90 Franc-Mayne St-Emilion GC 90-91 de France Pessac-Léognan 88 de France white Pessac-Léognan 89 de Francs Cotes de Francs 87-88 La Gaffelière St-Emilion GC 90-91 Le Gay Pomerol 95

Gazin Pomerol 90-92 Giscours Margaux 88-90 La Gomerie St-Emilion GC 88 Grand Corbin-Despagne St-Emilion GC 89-91 Grand Mayne St-Emilion GC 91-92 Grand Ormeau Lalande de Pomerol 88 Grand-Puy-Ducasse Pauillac 88-89 La Graviere Lalande de Pomerol 88-89 Greysac Médoc 86 Gruaud-Larose St-Julien 88 Guiraud Sauternes & Barsac 92-93 Haut Bages Liberal 90-91 Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 89 Haut-Bergey Pessac-Léognan 90-93 Haut-Bergey Pessac-Léognan 90-93

Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 96-97 Haut-Brion blanc Pessac-Léognan 96-97 Haut Simard St-Emilion GC 88 Joanin-Bécot Côtes de Castillon 89-90 Kirwan Margaux 88-89 Labégorce Margaux 88 Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 95-96 Lafleur Pomerol 94-95 Lafon-Rochet St-Estèphe 87 Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes & Barsac 90-93 Lagrange St-Julien 88 Lamarque Haut-Médoc 86-87 Lamothe Sauternes & Barsac 85 Lamothe Guignard Sauternes & Barsac 86 Langoa-Barton St-Julien 91-93

Larcis-Ducasse St-Emilion GC 90-92 Larmande St-Emilion GC 89-90 Larrivet-Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 89-91 Lascombes Margaux 87 Latour Pauillac 94-96 Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan 89-90 Latour-Martillac white Pessac-Léognan 90-93 Laville Haut Brion Pessac-Léognan 95-96 Léoville-Barton St-Julien 93-95 Léoville-Poyferré St-Julien 93-94 La Louvière Pessac-Léognan 90-92

La Louvière white Pessac-Léognan 90-93 Lynch Bages Pauillac 90-91 Lynch-Moussas Pauillac 88 Lynsolence St-Emilion GC 90-91 Magdelaine St-Emilion GC 90 Magrez-Fombrauge St-Emilion GC 90-91 Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan 89 Malartic-Lagravière white Pessac-Léognan 90-92 Malescot-Saint-Exupéry Margaux 89-91 de Malle Sauternes & Barsac 86-90? Margaux Margaux 95-96 Marquis de Terme Margaux 88 La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 95-96 Monbousquet St-Emilion GC 91-93

Monbrison Margaux 88 La Mondotte St-Emilion GC 94-95 Montrose St-Estèphe 92-94 Montviel Pomerol 88-89 Moulin Haut-Laroque Fronsac 87-88 Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon-Fronsac 90-92 Moulin Saint-Georges St-Emilion GC 89-90 Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 94-95 Myrat Sauternes & Barsac 87 Nairac Sauternes & Barsac 92-95 Olivier Pessac-Léognan 88 Olivier blanc Pessac-Léognan 89 Les Ormes de Pez St-Estèphe 88 Palmer Margaux 94-95 Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 90-92

Pape Clément blanc Pessac-Léognan 91-93 Pauillac de Château Latour Pauillac 87 Pavie St-Emilion GC 95-96 Pavie-Decesse St-Emilion GC 94-95 Pavie-Macquin St-Emilion GC 94-95 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux Margaux 90-92 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux Bordeaux 93-95 Pensées de Lafleur Pomerol 89-90 Le Petit Cheval St-Emilion GC 89-90 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 89-90 Petit Village Pomerol 85

Phélan-Ségur St-Estèphe 88 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 91-93 Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 88 Picque Caillou blanc Pessac-Léognan 88 Le Pin Pomerol 95-96 La Pointe Pomerol 87-88 Pontet-Canet Pauillac 94-95 Quinault l'Enclos St-Emilion GC 88 Rabaud Promis Sauternes & Barsac 88 Rauzan-Gassies Margaux 87 Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 88 Raymond Lafon Sauternes & Barsac 92-95 Rayne Vigneau Sauternes & Barsac 87

Reignac Bordeaux Superieur 88 Reynon Côtes de Bordeaux 88 Rieussec Sauternes & Barsac 88-92? de La Riviere Fronsac 89 Roc de Cambes Côtes de Bourg 90-91 Romer du Hayot Sauternes & Barsac 86 Saint-Pierre St-Julien 88 Sansonnet St-Emilion GC 88 Sigalas Rabaud Sauternes & Barsac 88 Simard St-Emilion GC 87 Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 90-92 Smith Haut Lafitte white Pessac-Léognan 91-93

Suau Sauternes & Barsac 88 Suduiraut Sauternes & Barsac 93-95 Talbot St-Julien 88 du Tertre Margaux 88 Tertre-Roteboeuf St-Emilion GC 94-96 La Tour du Pin (owned by Cheval Blanc) St-Emilion GC 89 La Tour-Carnet Haut-Médoc 88-89 Tournefeuille Lalande de Pomerol 87-88 Les Trois Croix Fronsac 89-90 Tronquoy-Lalande St-Estèphe 88 Troplong-Mondot St-Emilion GC 90-92? Trottevieille St-Emilion GC 90-91 La Tour Blanche Sauternes & Barsac 92-94

de Valandraud St-Emilion GC 94-95 Veyry Côtes de Castillon 90-91 la Vieille Cure Fronsac 87-88 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 95 Vieux Maillet Pomerol 87-88 Villars Fronsac 87-88 Vingt Mille Bordeaux Superieur 89 la Violette Pomerol 93-94 Virginie de Valandraud St-Emilion GC 90 d'Yquem Sauternes & Barsac 96-98

Tasting of 2008 vintage from app. 25 properties in Copenhagen on the 3rd September 2009

D'Aiguilhe 2008 – not rated as barrel sample was oxidized.

Angelus 2008 - was very strong and powerful with sweet fruit and a long aftertaste. Modern style. Very well made. 93p.

D'Armailhac 2008 - very charming on the nose with sweet ripe fruit, intense, a lot of goodies on the palate, silky and gracious finish. Splendid effort. 90p.

Beychevelle 2008 – on the light side but extremely elegant with charm and finesse. 89p.

Branaire 2008 – on the light side, aromatic, nice balance, round and soft finish. 89p.

Camensac 2008 – on the light side, but a pretty tasty wine with nice flavors and length. Soft and round. 87p.

Canon La Gaffeliere 2008 – almost as impressive as Clos Fourtet with less concentration and intensity. Splendid effort. 92p.

Cantemerle 2008 – as fine as in April this year, Seductive, charming, intense, and delightfully balanced. Splendid length and gracious aftertaste. A fine effort for the vintage. 89-90p.

Les Carmes Haut Brion 2008 - elegant, round wine with nice fruit intensity and harmony. 88-89p.

Chasse-Spleen 2008 – a clear improvement from April this year. Strong backbone, sappy, sweet black fruit, splendid balance, and long aftertaste. 90-91p.

La Clemence 2008 – meaty and powerful with splendid depth, length, and aftertaste. 92p.

Clerc Milon 2008 - plenty of ripe, round, aromatic, and seductive fruit. A splendid intensity of dark berries and concentration and firm aftertaste. I like it! 89-90p.

Clos L'Oratoire 2008 - nice silky fruit and tannins, round, lovely structure and balance. 89p.

Clos Fourtet 2008 - fine, seductive, and aromatic on the nose with great intensity and depth. Ripe fruit well supported by ripe tannins. Quite a long aftertaste. Superb quality. 92-93p.

Coutet 2008 - delightful sweetness, acidity, peach, pear, and dried apricots. Long and smooth finish. 92-93p.

Destieux 2008 - well-made wine with splendid ripe fruit and splendid balance. 89-90p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2008 - intense and aromatic on the nose with black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid depth and length, smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 91-93p.
Domaine de Chevalier white 2008 - Very open, aromatic with lemon and pineapple, attractive, tasty, and smooth, caressing aftertaste. Magnificent showing! 95-96p.

Gazin 2008 - full-bodied with a strong backbone, meaty, ripe fruit, and tannin everywhere, splendid balance and structure. Great effort for the vintage. 90-92p.

Giscours 2008 - showed an acceptable intensity of black fruit with fresh flavors, silky tannins, splendid depth and length, delicate balance, and firm finish. Splendid wine for the vintage and has improved since I tasted it during primeur week.

Grand Puy Lacoste 2008 – strong, aromatic, well-balanced wine showing great depth and finesse. A very stylish and classy Pauillac. 91p.

Guiraud 2008 – quite reminiscent of Coutet but with slightly less depth and acidity. Very fine quality. 92p.

Haut Bailly 2008 – has improved since I tasted it in April this year and now shows its excellent qualities. Strong with splendid depth, very concentrated and long on the palate, terrific balance, and long-lasting finish. Great effort. 93-94p.

Labegorce 2008 – as Labegorce Zede 2008. 86p.

Labegorce Zede 2008 – not particularly exciting wine, light, healthy, round, and with good fruit. 86p.

Lagrange 2008 - dark, intense on the nose with blackberries, a good bite on the palate with nice fruit, smooth and nice aftertaste. Very nice wine. 90p.

Leoville Poyferre 2008 - extremely well-made, all-in-black wild cherries. Elegant, sophisticated, and gracefully balanced. Gracious aftertaste. Fabulous wine. 94p.

Marquis d'Alesme Becker 2008 – fat, meaty wine with silky fruit and considerable finesse. 88-89p.

Phelan Segur 2008 broke several wine hearts with tasty, harmonious, and seductive wine. 88p.

Pontet Canet 2008 – still very impressive, as it showed in April this year. Extremely aromatic and intense, strong structure, sophisticated, and stunning length. Excellent stuff. 95+p.

Poujeaux 2008 – pretty and nicely balanced wine with considerable depth and intensity, but light. It will not make old bones. 87p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2008 - an oaky and meaty wine with enough ripe, aromatic, and fresh red-/blackcurrants to balance tannins. Fine effort for the vintage. 90-92p.

Smith Haut Lafitte white 2008 - dense, flavorful (acacia flower, apple, and peach), well-knitted wine with fine acidity and intense finish. 92p. Tasted in September 2010.

Du Tertre 2008 - quite round and balanced but a bit vegetable and edgy. Not good to taste at the moment. 87p.

ADDITIONAL 2008s TASTED IN BORDEAUX, OCTOBER 2009

Cantelauze - dense, tight, plenty of black cherries, full-bodied on the palate, strong structure, splendid depth, long aftertaste. Excellent. 91-92p

La Conseillante - as impressive as in March 2009. 93-94p.

Corbin Michotte - blackberries on the nose, fine intensity, splendid balance, and long aftertaste. Delightful wine. 90p.

Valandraud - very ripe, strong backbone, splendid concentration and length, strongly structured on the palate, and perfectly balanced. Formidable wine. 94-95p.

ADDITIONAL 2008s TASTED IN BORDEAUX, OCTOBER 2010

Bad Boy - pleasant, round, and soft wine, fruity, and drinking extremely well. 87p.

Domaine des Sabines - tasted together with 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 was a bit lighter than 2009. Seductive and attractive wine, expressing a delicious aroma of black cherries, elegance, suppleness, and smooth aftertaste. 89p.

Le Clos de Beau-Pere - tasted together with 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 was almost as splendid as 2009. Intense nose of wild cherries, soft texture, fine balance, excellent complexity, and caressing aftertaste. Splendid effort. 90p.

Virginie de Valandraud - tasted together with the 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 was a real heartbreaker. Feminine Valandraud with a lighter approach and relying on elegance and grace. 91p.

Clos Badon - tasted together with 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 was better now than 2009, displaying fine aromas of blackberries and chocolate, strong and chewy with fine acidity. No dryness is to be found here. 90p.

Bellevue de Tayac - tasted together with the 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 appeared similar to 2009. It should be much more approachable in 2-4 years. 87p.

Valandraud - tasted together with the 2009 vintage of the same wine, and 2008 has improved since I tasted it in October 2009. Now it's in the bottle. Stunning nose of black cherries (cérise noir) and blackberries, strong backbone, great concentration, length, fabulous structure, and perfect balance. Formidable wine. 95-96p.

 

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