AN OUTSTANDING SAINT ESTEPHE WINE AND AMONG THE TOP BORDEAUX WINES!
Calon Segur is situated most north of any classified growths in Medoc. You find it while passing Syndicat Viticole in tiny village of Saint-Estephe on the left side of the road and while seeing the big wall on same left side around a property, then you realize that you have just arrived at Calon Segur!
This property is one of the oldest in Bordeaux and there's been made wine since 12th century. The man who made Calon Segur famous was Marquis de Segur who at the time owned Latour, Mouton Rothschild and Lafite. His nickname was Prince of Vines. Since 20th century a heart has been engraved on the label with property name inside the heart.
Gasqueton family had owned Calon Segur from 1894 to 2012. I have visited Calon Segur first time in 1987, meeting Mme Gasqueton husband, then it took me more than 20 years to visit the property again and it happened in April 2012. Mme Gasqueton was quite excentric proprietor and had strict rules about making appointments. I tried to visit Calon Segur several times before April 2012 with no luck. She died in September 2011 and her heirs after short attempt to continue to run the property decided to sell it to an insurance company, Suravenir. Extensive modernisation of wine-facilities, renovation of chateau and makeover of gardens has been planned by new owners. New vinification cellar with 70 stainless steel vats of different volume and ageing cellar have been in use since 2016 and the renovated chateau itself has been ready in the beginning of 2019.
Vineyard here on some hilly slopes covers 55 ha, whereof 45 ha is in production. Whole vineyard is in one block inside the wall. It's planted with 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Vines are on average 22 years old. New owners want to increase percentage of planted Cabernet Sauvignon and decrease planted percentage of Merlot in coming years. Soil here is typical Saint-Estephe, a thick layer of gravel with big peebles on the top and clay as subsoil. Close neighborhood of the vineyard to estuary of Gironde ensures perfect microclimate and keeps frost danger away. Grand Vin matures in 100% new oak for 20 months.
For sure, the quality of Calon Segur has rocketed a great deal since 2015 vintage, but it was obvious already in 2014 vintage, that big improvement was on its way. More precision, focus and care for details. Laurent Dufau (arrived in 2013) and Vincent Millet (arrived in 2006), technical director and winemaker respectively, have really been pushing this property up quality wise. Calon Segur combines perfectly power and elegance, subtlety and strong backbone. For me, it's a typical St.Estephe wine with flair and character of the soil. It compliments perfectly its two nearby competitors, Cos d'Estournel and Montrose.
Sister property, Capbern (ex. Capbern Gasqueton), a Cru Bourgeois, managed by same people is often a great value for money, especially since 2014 vintage.
Pretty garden behind chateau in April 2014
Laurent Dufau (left) and Vincent Millet (right) - take Calon Segur to new heights
2018 (barrel sample) 98-99p
Tasted twice - last time in September 2019. Consistent notes. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The joint forces of Laurent Dufau (technical director since 2013) and Vincent Millet (manager/winemaker since 2006) seem to have produced the best vintage at Calon Segur in the last 50 years. Beautifully scented nose, distinctive, precise, focused, stylish, elegant and powerful at the same time with excellent complexity, structure and length. Once again wow! 14.9% alcohol, but it's well-covered by huge amounts of perfectly ripe fruit and tannin. Excellent acidity completes this masterpiece!
2017 (barrel sample) 96p
Tasted in April 2018. This property's been extremely consistent for a long time and its 2017 blends excellently power and elegance. Out of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2017 Calon Segur, 15% are 10 years young vines. 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot are the remaining grape varietes used. Very potent, strong, tight, very complex and aromatic. Stylish with elegance.
Tasted twice - last time in April 2019. Consistent notes. 60% C.Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 18% C.Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Very fruity, stylish, with big concentration and length, great complexity, remarkable structure and length. Awesome wine.
2015 (barrel sample) 96-97p
Tasted twice - last time in April 2017. Not consistent notes. 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Was even better that I remember it from the barrel. Fresh, aromatic, potent, long and with persistent finish.
Tasted three times - last time in April 2017. Consistent notes. Excellent fruity nose of blackberries, strong structure, splendid complexity, long finish. Impressive effort.
2013 (barrel sample) 91p
Tasted in April 2014. Aromatic, sappy, splendid structure and fine complexity, and long aftertaste. Very attracitive at the time of the tasting. The question is how for long this wine will keep fine after the bottling. Weather conditions in this vintage were obviously far from perfect.
2012 (barrel sample) 92+p
Tasted in April 2013. 78% C.Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% C.Franc. Flowery and aromatic on the nose with silky fruit and silky tannin, elegant with finesse. Splendid grip, structure and length. Heart-breaker wine!
2011 (barrel sample) 92p
Tasted in April 2012. Tasted together with 2010 and 2009. Despite not having the ripeness, flair, concentration and depth of forementioned vintages, it showed good vibes with elegant approach, good complexity and nice balance. It will only improve after bottling.
2010 (barrel sample) 95p
Tasted in April 2012. Big, bold, fat fruit and tannin, great depth and length, rich and with persistent finish. Combines perfectly power and elegance. Great future awaits!
Tasted twice - last time in September 2019. Consistent notes. Impressive wine with perfectly ripe fruit full of sweetness, strong and elegant at the same time, sophisticated on the palate with long finish. This vintage was characterized by high alcohol in Bordeaux but here it's not tasteable at all, meaning perfectly integrated with fruit!!
Tasted in September 2018. Powerful, very much terroir of Saint-Estephe, fine complexity, acidity and length. Long and meaty finish. Splendid effort.
Tasted in December 2006. Powerful, juicy, strong and quite full-bodied. A very fine effort in the contex of the vintage, which is ranked low. At 60 years of age, this wine was still a great one to taste. Fine old wine.
Tasted in November 2018. Stand A/B. Chateau bottled. Dark color! Elegant and gracious on the nose, strong on the palate, big acidity and long finish. Not exactly showing its age with remarkable freshness and complexity. Young and kicking! Real badass wine for a 100 years old one!
A blast from the past