Horisontal and vertical tastings

 

 Bordeaux 1928 - 14 wines tasted in November 2002

  41

  

1. BEYCHEVELLE - very dark colour. Dense and intense on the nose, potent, powerful on the palate with ripe fruit and cocoa plus chocolate. Fabulous wine. 97p.

2. PICHON COMTESSE - lots of cheries, superb elegance, medium bodied, finesse, taste of raspberry drops. Formidable wine. 93p.

3. COS D'ESTOURNEL - very ripe fruit with aromas of chocolate and cocoa. A bit tart on the palate but balance didn't suffer much. Quite elegant. A wine with confidence. 92p.

4. MONTROSE - very dark and dense. Chocolate, splendidly built together, luscious with stunning balance and long aftertaste. A really great bottle. 94p.

5. HAUT BRION - black ink, coffe, tart and sourish. Seemed a bit out of balance. Has started to decline. 88p.

6. HAUT BAILLY - fruit sweetness, medium body, advanced age. Had its peak several years ago. 88p.

7. MARGAUX - balanced wine with finesse, quite atractive on the nose but not so kind on the palate. 90p.

8. LAFITE - old, sherry-like, passed away. 0p.

9. LATOUR - dead and burried. 0p.

10. MOUTON ROTHSCHILD - same style as Margaux. 90p.

11. DURFORT VIVENS - from magnum, Danish bottled (Aalholm). Unfortunately bad bottle - old, uninspirring and taste of extracted coffee. 0p.

12. PONTET CANET - from magnum, Danish bottled. Coal black in colour(!), a lot of acidity here, ripe fruit but not quite in balance. Has this wine got some "help" from Rhone in terms of colour and concentration? 90p?

Tasting of wines from Domaine Fabre in Copenhagen on the 26th January 2012

App. two weeks ago I participated in tasting of wines from Domaines Fabre, organized by Danish wine-merchant based in Copenhagen, Philipson Wine. The owner, Vincent Fabre, presented wines from his four chateaux (he owns 6 in all), during both press tasting and wine dinner.

I tasted following wines:

2010 Fonseche AOC Haut Medoc

2010 Le Chéne AOC Haut Medoc

2010, 2009 and 2005 La Tonnelle Cru Bourgeois

2010, 2009, 2000 and 1990 Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois

2010, 2009, 2006, 2005 and 2000 Lamothe Cissac Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois Vieilles Vignes

Now to tasting notes:

2010 Fonseche AOC Haut Medoc - fruity and aromatic, soft raspberries, fresh and nice acidity, round, soft and very pleasant easy drinking. Really nice one. Half Merlot, half C.S. 87p.

2010 Le Chéne AOC Haut Medoc AOC Haut Medoc - more intensity on the nose, more structure and longer aftertaste, than in Fonseche. Vines are twice as older, 55% C.S, 40% M and 5% P.Verdot. Very tasty blueberries. Very good indeed. 88p.

2010, 2009 and 2005 La Tonnelle Cru Bourgeois - 2010 is a step up in everything compared to 2010 Fonseche, lot of blueberries, fresh acidity and I really like the tannins, which were ripe, fatty and soft. 89p.
2009 version had in my opinion riper tannins than 2010 and was otherwise similar to 2010 in style. 89p.
2005 reminded a lot of 2009 with its fine fruit sweetnes, fine balance and soft aftertaste, but was less concentrated. 89p. Cépage here is 60% C.S, 35% M and 5% PV.

2010, 2009, 2000 and 1990 Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois - 2010 showed deep and intense aromas of grated chocolate, blacberries, complexity, captvating sweetness of berry fruit, discrete ripe tannins, splendid balance and long smooth finish. Impressive stuff! 91p.
2009 version wasn't as intense and concentrated as 2010, but you really couldn't complain about this wine's build-up and captivating touch. 90p.
2000 had lot of captivating black fruit, was pleasant and charming with fine balance, but inho it suffered a bit of obvious big yield as I found this wine somewhat diluted. 89p. Magnum of this wine tasted better during dinner, strong, concentrated and with long finish. 90p.
1990 tasted from magnum showed some age with plummy flavors, ripe fruit and ripe tannins. Has survived the time machine with bravour. 88p.
30 years old vines here and cépage; 58% C.S, 35 M, 2% C.F and 5% P.V.

2010, 2009, 2006, 2005 and 2000 Lamothe Cissac Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois Vieilles Vignes - 2010 was a stellar wine, far more creamy than normal cuvée, long, deep and with great long finish. Tannins here were a revelation - stunning ripeness and fatness. Great balance here. Utterly impressive wine! 93p.
2009 tasted a tad lighter and less intense than in 2010, but no complains here. Splendid effort. 91p.
2006 was potent, strong, lot of black berries, powerful fruit and powerful tannins, the latter ripe á point, very fine balance and long finish. Splendid effort. 92p.
2005 tasted for me better than 2009 with more concentration and more ripeness of fruit and tannins. Softer than 2006 but equally impressive. 92p.
2000 reminded a lot of 2005. Impressive stuff again! 92p.
VV version is only made in very good vintages and comes from the parcel of 60 years old vines on average, cepage - 75% C.S, 15% M and 10% PV.

Very interesting tasting and great cadeau to Vincent Fabre for keeping these tannins so ripe, round and fresh, assuring splendid balance, keeping fine style and making wines in thoughtful way. His wines are great qpr for money.

For one I didn't need to worry about unripe, harsh and acidy tannins attacking my teeth.

Btw, Lamothe Cissac is situated only 4 km away from Lafite, close to the village of Cissac.

www.domaines-fabre.fr

La Cabanne in Copenhagen - 8th March 2012

I participated in very interesting tasting (vertical of La Cabanne) of Pomerol wines, organized by big Danish wine merchant based in Copenhagen, Philipson Wine. Here, we are talking about a traditionally made wine stuff for long keeping as it evolves slowly, without modern style gimmicks.

Francois Estager presented wines in very informative and easy understanding way, and wines were pretty splendid too. Affordable and great qpr.

I met Francois' father Jean-Pierre Estager in 1988 and he helped me to arrange visit at Certan de May, which could only be visited at that time if you had the right connections. Estager family settled in Pomerol in 1952.

La Cabanne is situated few hundred meters from Clinet and Bourgneuf, where subsoil is rich in iron dirt or a hard clay like greasy stones with clear brown lines of iron oxide.

2007 Domaine de Compostelle – second wine of La Cabanne. Light, round and charming with nice fruit, pleasant and already drinkable. 85p.

2009 Domaine de Compostelle – fresh, full of aromas of black berries, very attractive and uncomplicated. Delicious to drink already now. 87p

2006 Haut Maillet – this property consists of several parcels spread around whole appellation. It reveals truffle aroma on the nose and ripe cherries, fresh acidity, splendid balance, length and fine firm aftertaste. Splendid wine. 90p.

2006 La Cabanne – more depth, intensity and better structure here than In 2006 Haut Maillet. Splendid wine as well. 91p.

2005 La Cabanne – very intense, fat ripe fruit, beautifully balanced, dense and finely grained tannins, long caressing aftertaste. Excellent wine with great future. 92p.

2001 La Cabanne – not that different from 2006 version, slightly more depth, concentration and stronger structure. Longer at aftertaste as well. This wine had a very significant flavor of truffles and the most concentrated one of all wines tasted. 91+p.

1998 La Cabanne (magnum) – the most backward wine of the evening, resembling 2001 a lot. We have to wait. 91p.

1989 La Cabanne (magnum) – still young and powerful wine with perfectly ripe fruit with catching sweetness, fabulous balance and long aftertaste. Long life waits ahead. Impressive. 93+p.

1975 La Cabanne (magnum) – supple and potent at same time, strong, black fruit, powerful tannin and equally powerful fruit. Metallic (truffle) scent coming from "crasse de fer" (iron dirt) which La Cabanne has a lot of in its subsoil. Long finish. Splendid stuff for long ageing and well worthy 92p.

1971 La Cabanne (magnum) – a bit tired, light, round and charming. Should be consumed soon. Was at its peak some years ago. 88p.

1964 La Cabanne – this wine was recorked in 2008. Last time I tasted was in 1988 together with Jean-Pierre Estager and we also tasted 1961 La Cabanne at same occasion. Both were stunningly expressive Pomerols at 24 years of age. 24 years later, in 2012 this 1964 hasn't lost anything of its vitality and energy. Truffles anywhere. Tannins were still fresh with subtle fundament of acidity, formidable balance, depth and length. Will be alive and kicking for 5-10 more years or maybe longer. Great example of unbelievable long life span Bordeaux wines are capable of. Philipson Wine called this wine a meditation one – yes it truly was. 96p.

Leoville Poyferre in Copenhagen - 3rd and 5th September 2012 

2011 Leoville Poyferre (tasted on the 5th September 2012 at Beyerman event)

Very complex and long on the nose and palate. Aromatic black fruit, well-balanced, excellent structure and long firm aftertaste. Excellent for the vintage. 94p.

2007 Leoville Poyferre (tasted on the 5th September 2012 at Beyerman event)

Very nice, attractive and charming wine with good stuffing, light-footed fruit and tannin and soft finish. Very enjoyable to drink right now. 88p.

2005 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

This wine has excellent nose of black cherries/blueberries, intense and fragrant. Long on the palate with strong structure. Silky fruit and tannin. Long fruity finish. Fabulous wine but in my opinion not as concentrated as 2000 LP. Fabulous stuff anyway. 95+p.

2003 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Powerful and tightly structured wine. On the nose you can feel the heat of the vintage with warm plums, but they're neither stewed nor cooked. You can also feel the heat of the vintage on the palate, meaning tannin being rather dry on the finish and not as fresh as in 2000 and 2005. A bit controversial wine but the quality is fine. 92p.

2000 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Powerful wine, which possesses excellent structure and stunning balance. Tightly build with great intensity, perfect balance and powerful finish. There's a lot of potential in this wine, which means great future. 97+p. This was the first vintage where LP's present oenologist, Isabelle Davin, participated in.

1999 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Taking the problems of this vintage into account, LP has made nice wine, however the fruit isn't as ripe as in 1996 and other ingredients are on the light side. Ready to drink. 88p.

1996 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

It's elegant and well-shaped wine with soft and round tannin. Aromatic and tasty ripe fruit. Very nice fruity finish. Very approachable at the moment, which indicates that this wine is at its peak. 92p.

1989 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

From magnum. Intense truffles on the nose with soft fruit and tannin, round and very well put together, lot of finesse and splendid balance. Delicious and excellent wine. 93p.

Before the tasting of LP on Monday the 3rd September, there were served 2007 Moulin Riche and 2003 Le Crock, both Cru Bourgeois owned by Cuvelier family. Moulin Riche was very attractive and catchy wine, light, round and very drinkable, while 2003 Le Crock (St. Estephe) was quite fresh and vibrant for the vintage with no sign of warm/hot undertones in fruit and tannin. Very good indeed.

Anne Cuvelier explained that soil in St.Estephe has a large percentage of clay, which kept water reserves from spring throughout summer.

2011 revisited - 5th September 2012

Last Wednesday, 27 chateaux from Bordeaux visited Copenhagen to present their 2011 vintage from barrel and one older vintage. They have done this trip since 2002 with Bordeaux based negociant, Beyerman. Compared to last year, neither Montrose, nor Pontet Canet, nor Troplong Mondot found their way to Copenhagen, Beyerman explained their absence with wish of going on their own meaning going alone and presenting their wines at Winemaker's dinner.

I managed to taste 60 wines during 2.5 hours and my general impression was, that 2011 is good to very good vintage, better for sure than 2008, developing well and not showing austerity and edgy corners. Several wines benefitted from further staying in oak. All in all it's a very useful vintage and will be a great value for money when it hit the shelves in the end of 2013 with prices not higher than primeur ones.

Here are my TNs:

D'Aiguilhe 2011 – powerful, tasty black cherries, fine fruit and structure, meaty and fine length. Fine effort. 90p.
D'Aiguilhe 2007 – earthy flavors, compact, strong, well-balanced with fine intensity and length. 88p.

D'Armailhac 2011 – better ripeness here than in 2008, tannins are softer, fine finish. 91p.

D'Armailhac 2008 – powerful, strong and concentrated, spicy flavors, certain dryness on the finish. Needs time to soften. 89p.

Beauregard 2011 - was very intense on the nose, tight, aromatic, with dark berries, nice velvety finish and oak very well integrated with fruit. 90p.

Beauregard 2009 – strong with sweet cherries, lot of stuffing, splendid structure and meaty finish. Fine effort. 91p.

Beychevelle 2011 - as impressive as during primeur week og maybe even better. Pretty aromatic and subtle wine, full-bodied. Splendid aftertaste with a lot of flavours. Graceful and stylish. Stupendous wine. 93+p.

Beychevelle 2005 - fabulous thick aroma of dark berries, awesome great length, balance and concentration, formidable depth and aftertaste, and it's full load of finesse, elegance and graciosity. Seamless wine. 95+p.

Branaire 2011 – improved since tasting it 5 months ago. More concentrated with silky fruit and tannin, fine balance and smooth finish. 90p.

Branaire 2008– lack a bit of ripeness compared to 2011, otherwise it is well made wine with very good structure and length. 89p.

Camensac 2011 - aromatic ripe dark berries on the nose, seductive and charming, silky tannin, well- balanced. Fine aftertaste. 90p.

Camensac 2005 – of course more intensity, concentration and better structure here than in 2011. Really fine effort for the vintage from this property. 91p.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2011 - offered fine nose of cherries, fat ripe tannin, splendid depth and persistent aftertaste. Impressive effort. 93p.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2007– nicely made, good tannin, nice structure, attractive and round. Firm aftertaste. 88p.

Chasse Spleen 2011 - offered excellent nose of black fruit with depth and intensity. Silky tannin, finesse, intense on palate and persistent fruity aftertaste. Splendid effort. 92p.

Chasse Spleen 2007 – aromatic, round and charming, very drinkable wine right now. 87p.

La Clemence 2011 - strong, tannic wine with robust structure, fine depth and firm finish. On the verge of overextraction. 89p.

La Clemence 2002 – soft and light wine, which is beginning to falter. 86p.

Clerc Milon 2011 - showed big concentration and strong structure, tight and intense on the palate, splendid balance and long finish. Superb wine. 92p.

Clerc Milon 2008 – not that different from 2011, but less concentrated and ripeness of both fruit and tannin is less apparent. 90p.

Clos L'Oratoire 2011 - offered fine nose of cherries, seductive style, splendid balance, elegance and smooth caressing aftertaste. 91-92p.

Clos L'Oratoire 2007 – charming and round with soft tannin. Ready to drink. 87p.

Coutet 2011 - impressed a lot with great depth, lot of sweetness and corresponding acidity, stunning balance and long, long lingering aftertaste. Simply great effort. 94+p.

Coutet 1997 – Great stuff. Still fresh with intense botrytized aromas of crème brulée and heather honey, fine acidity and strong honeyed finish. 15 years old wine at its peak. 93p.

Destieux 2011 - strong and sappy wine, ripe and tasty black berries, fine balance and long finish. Well-made wine. 91p.

Destieux 2008 – aromatic and powerful wine, strong structure, meaty, persistent finish. 90p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2011 – tasted better than during primeur. Very aromatic, great minerality, splendid depth and length, strong structure, meaty texture and smooth aftertaste. 93p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2005 – this wine was really impressive. Excellent nose of intense black cherries, palate coated with layers of perfectly ripe black fruit, great freshness, excellent balance and great finish. Fabulous stuff indeed! 95p.

Domaine de Chevalier white 2011 - performed strong and powerful, lots of acacia flower, apple and citron grass. Great structure, depth and length on the palate, rich, great balance and strong finish. As always an utterly impressive stuff from this property! 96+p.

Ferriere 2011 - was tight and intense wine with dense structure, fine concentration of dark fruit, fat tannin, harmonious and firm finish. 92p.

Ferriere 2004 – fine intensity of aromatic cherries, fine depth and balance, long finish. Well-made wine. 91p.

Gazin 2011 - pretty elegant and soft, fine cherry aroma, fine balance and fruity finish.91p.

Gazin 2006 –very nice wine, charming nose, nice structure, good tannin. Seems to mature rather quickly. 88p.

Giscours 2011 – this barrel sample showed even better than in April this year. Powerful and intense with lot of black cherries and cocoa, strong fat tannin, very well constructed, complex and with long finish. Stunning wine. 94p.

Giscours 2004 – strong and very perfumed wine, excellent structure, length and finish. All the best from Margaux commune is here and it makes you very happy. Very seductive wine! 92p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2011 - had oaky undertones, quite intense fruit, nice backbone and structure, and persistent finish. 89p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2008 – very similar to 2011. 89p.

Haut Bailly 2011 - was a rich and powerful wine with strong aroma of black cherries, great complexity, depth and length. Excellent future in sight. 93+p.

Haut Bailly 2007 – charming, round, very nice concentration and balance. Already drinkable. 87p.

Lagrange 2011 – was intense on the nose with black berries, with good grip on the palate with tasty fruit and firm aftertaste. Well-made wine. 90p.

Lagrange 2009 – riper fruit, more stuffing and longer than 2011, silky tannin, very attractive wine. 91p.

Larrivet Haut Brion red 2011 - had deliciously intense fruity nose with cherries, solid backbone, splendid depth and length. Persistent and firm finish. 92p.

Larrivet Haut Brion red 2009 – stronger, more intense and sweeter fruit than in 2011. 92+p.

Larrrivet Haut Brion white 2011 - was elegant and refined on the nose and palate with lot of finesse. Splendid acidity, great aromas of pineapple, apple and acacia flower, stylish and classy. 93p.

Lascombes 2011 - showed great style and finesse. Very aromatic with black berries, excellent balance and complexity. Long caressing finish. True Margaux style. 93p.

Lascombes 2009 – more power here than in 2011, more sweet fruit and tannin, complex with long and sweet finish. 93+p.

Latour Martillac red 2011 - offered splendid nose of ripe cherries, splendid depth and intensity. Silky on the palate with remarkable structure, fine length and smooth aftertaste. Fine effort indeed. 92p.

Latour Martillac red 2005 – excellent wine, perfectly ripe black fruit (cherries and blueberries), rich in flavors and nuances, long and smooth finish. Great effort. 93p.

Latour Martillac white 2011 - was oaky with lot of acidity. Great intensity of apple and citron grass, freshness, great length on the palate and long finish. Terrific wine. 93-94p.

Leoville Poyferre 2011 - very complex and long on the nose and palate. Aromatic blackfruit, well-balanced, excellent structure and long firm aftertaste. Excellent for the vintage. 94p.

Leoville Poyferre 2007 – very nice, attractive and charming wine with good stuffing, light-footed fruit and tannin and soft finish. Very enjoyable to drink right now. 88p.

Phelan Segur 2011 showed much freshness with aromatic and spicy fruit, splendid structure, silky tannin and long finish. 91p.

Phelan Segur 2008 – good intensity of blackcurrants, good grip, nice length and firm aftertaste. 88p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2011 – strong, meaty, very intense aroma of black cherries, complex, fine concentration and grip. Firm finish. Splendid. 93p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2007 – fruity, soft, round and charming. Ready to drink. 87p.

Smith Haut Lafitte white 2010 – aromatic with excellent acidity, apple, lemon grass and acacia flower. Remarkable balance, strong structure and long finish. 95p.

Talbot 2011 - offered aromatic fruit (black cherries), were quite intense and powerful on the palate, with fine structure, balance and finish. 92+p.

Du Tertre 2011 - improved significantly since primeur tasting in April. Strong and powerful, rich, elegant and long on the palate, excellent structure. Very impressive effort. 93p.

Du Tertre 2006 – not unlike 2011, slightly less powerful, but complex and with long finish. Fine effort. 92p.

Chateau Lafleur vertical in Copenhagen - Friday the 14th September 2012

Warm-up:

1. Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet 2005 – fine fruit and acidity, melted butter, fine structure and finish. 91p.

2. Tattinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 – Elegant, sophisticated, much finesse, long finish. 92p.

3. Diebolt-Vallois La Fleur du Passion 2004 – more stuffing here than in Tattinger, strong, meaty, powerful, excellent bubbles, finished persistently and firm. 93p.

We knew which wines were served (not the order) in each flight except ringer(s).

First flight – Lafleur 2003, 2006 and 2008 in random order:

These wines were only ones not to be decanted, so they were changing all the time. But I kept all three glasses and retasted wines from time to time.

1. Strong and powerful, black cherries, deep and sophisticated to start with. Gradually it got slightly warm flavor on the fruit and tannin started to show more and more dryness. It was Lafleur 2003. 93p.

2. Even stronger, full of massive fruit and tannin, backward and with very firm finish. My guess was Lafleur 2008 but it was Lafleur 2006. I remember it being much more approachable from the barrel. 93p.

3. Like the previous wine, but fruit and tannin seemed to be significantly riper and fatter. And balance also seemed to be better here. I guessed here Lafleur 2006 but it was Lafleur 2008. Excellent wine. 94p.

Second flight – Two ringers and Lafleur 1998:

1. First ringer corked, didn't even tasted it. It turned out to be Lafleur 1993.

2. Very candy on the nose with raspberry drops, tight and quite powerful on the palate, tannin having certain dryness. It turned out to be a ringer = Le Pin 1993. 90p.

3. Strong and potent wine with great depth and iron strong structure, riper fruit and riper tannin than in Lafleur 2008. Very impressive 1998 Lafleur indeed. 95p.

Third flight – Lafleur 2005 and Lafleur 2009 in random order:

1. Very dark. Incredibly potent, intense and sensual nose of wild cherries, almost essence stuff on nose and palate, velvety all over, extremely powerful, iron fist structure and fantastic balance. It feels like this wine is just a pure silk from start to end. Mind-boggling wine and no doubt it was 2005. 100p.

2. Different style that in previous wine, slight touch of alcohol on the fruit and the tannin isn't as silky and fat as in 2005. But there was absolutely nothing to complain as this wine had fabulous structure, depth, sweetness, balance and finish. 2009 worth 97+p.

Intermezzo 1

Michael Stounberg, one member of the tasting gang that evening, had gone wild and bought a bottle of DRC's La Tache 2009 from restaurant wine list. He apparently thought we needed to stimulate our taste buds one niveau up for coming star vintages of Lafleur. Thanks a lot Michael. Far too young to taste, hiding an enormous potential behind velour walls of fruit and tannin. 97p.

42Fourth flight – One ringer and Lafleur 2000 and Lafleur 2001 in random order:

1. Thick raspberries with blackberries on the nose and palate, very strong structure, incredible richness and length. It didn't seem to me to be Lafleur, so I came with guesses of Petrus together with Michael and I did suggest 2001 vintage of Lafleur's neighbor. And my guess was correct – the ringer was Petrus 2001. 98p.

2. This wine we all agreed was Lafleur 2001, a wine I always have adored, mainly because of its incredibly captivating nose of truffles, black fruit, richness, sophisticated touch and fabulous structure. 95p.

3. Tons of truffles, thick, fat tannin, unbelievable complexity and richness, wild cherries, blueberries and blackberries in very huge quantities. Older sister/brother of 2005, but as breathtaking. Seventh time I tasted it and 2000 has always been "thunderstruck". 100p.

Fifth flight – Lafleur 1985 and Lafleur 1988 in random order:

1. Quite dark, matured flavours of cherries and truffles, broad and intense on palate, delicious velvety tannin, exquisite balance, long and sophisticated, persistent and smooth aftertaste. At its very peak right now. Excellent stuff. 94p.

2. Darker in colour, tighter with more power and concentration than 1985, iron strong structure, dark cherries and raspberries everywhere, excellent balance and long firm finish. Not ready yet. Excellent stuff as well. 95p.

Here, Michael and myself did quickly agree, that wine nr. 1 was 1985 and wine nr. 2 was 1988. 1985 was the first vintage made by present owners, Sylvie and Jacques Guinaudeau.

43Sixth flight – Lafleur 1989 and Lafleur 1982 in random order.

1. Excellent wine but it understandably paled a bit, while compared to second wine in this flight. Very intense and robust. Superb ripe fruit, dark cherries and kirsch liqueur and great depth on the palate. Wonderful structure and length. It was 1989. 96p.

2. Oh my God what a wine. Absolutely no doubt that it was 1982 vintage! Heavenly stuff. Extremely dark and dense. Wild and incredibly intense nose with "tons" of mocha, bitter chocolate, extremely powerful on the palate with kirsch liqueur, extremely concentrated with extraordinary length. Perfect balance. So thick texture in this wine, that you could cut it in slices. Christian Moueix and Jean-Claude Berrouet from close neighbor Petrus made this wine and it shows, for 100% typical Lafleur this wine isn't. But who really cares, as this wine was, has been and will be a legend for many years to come. 100p.

Then some stickies to cheese/sorbets:

1. Yquem 1979 – fine candied fruit of orange peel and dried apricots, on the light side, elegant and with medium finish. 90p.

2. Yquem 1918 – very dark brown, full of toffee, crème brulée, fine acidity, excellent structure, long and honeyed finish. Excellent and well-preserved wine, impressive experience. Negociant bottling. 93p.

Intermezzo 2 - showstopper

Another burgundy wine was served at our table. Who among the gang sponsored this bottle, I don't know. And I didn't ask either. It was served blind and it was very easily to detect as unmistakably Burgundy wine Because of this wine's taste, style and richness, and guesses from others about this wine being from Cotes de Nuits, I guessed Chambertin from A. Rousseau and I guessed correct. It turned out to be 2002 vintage. Very stylish and sophisticated. Incredibly aromatic and stunningly balanced. Long, long caressing finish. 96p.

Chateau Pontet Canet vertical in Copenhagen - Tuesday the 30th October 2012

Pontet Canet is 81 ha, situated in Pauillac's northern part, close to Mouton Rothschild (eastern neighbor) and has been owned by Alfred Tesseron since 2000.

Before his arrival, this property suffered a lot because of lack of money, which prevented important improvements in vineyard and cellar. He works closely with long time cellar master, Jean-Michel Comme, who nowadays is both in charge of vineyard and vinfication. Michel Rolland is consultant here and Alfred Tesseron greatly appreciates his deep knowledge of the vineyard.

Vines planted are Cabernet Sauvignon 62%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Merlot 32%, Petit Verdot 2%, they're 40 years old on average. Pontet Canet ages in 60% new oak.

Since 2004 vintage Pontet Canet has been organic and biodynamic. Today there are 5 horses to plough vineyard and there is a special device, so worker can sit on a kind of chair while steering horse.

Alfred Tesseron revealed, that 2010 vintage at Pontet Canet, looks to be better than 2009 in terms of structure, richness and quality of tannin which is fatter and even more ripe than in 2009.

Very interesting tasting with very passionate Alfred Tesseron who is very much in love with his wines.

I tasted wines in following order:

Pontet Canet 2006 – very intense and fresh nose of aromatic blackcurrants and blackberries, tannin is very finely grained, impressive balance, splendid concentration, complexity and length. Very stylish wine for long keeping. 93p.

Pontet Canet 2007 – light version of 2006, very fruity, charming and round, well-balanced, smooth and graceful finish. Great success for the vintage. 91p.

Pontet Canet 2008 – more intense and powerful than 2006, better complexity, deeper and longer, strong structure, sophisticated and with stunning length. Excellent stuff. Again a great, stylish and classy Pauillac/Bordeaux wine. 95p.

Pontet Canet 2009 – Very ripe fruit on the nose and palate, very long on the palate, velvety with silky fruit and silky tannin. Impressive sweetness of fruit. Rich and sophisticated. Excellent balance. Surprisingly drinkable now and imho there's little competition between fruit and tannin. It's like more finesse amd elegance than power and strength, I did expect more concentration here, but maybe this wine just represents the style of the vintage. Awesome effort but not 100p wine for me. 97p.

Pontet Canet 2001 – classic Bordeaux style with tannin very present, dusty black berry fruit, splendid balance and length, good concentration and meaty finish. Fine effort. 92p.

Pontet Canet 2003 – Alfred Tesseron called this wine a "Mediterrenian" style. I don't quite agree, as it didn't show any "warm" flavours on fruit and tannin wasn't dry. All In all it showed more concentration, more depth and better complexity than 2001. Long finish. Splendid wine. 93p.

Pontet Canet 2004 – impressive, very aromatic and sappy wine, lot of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries here, splendid structure and length on the palate. Velvety. Great balance and rich on nuances. Excellent stuff. 94p.

Tasting finished with extremely enjoyable 59 years old Cognac from Tesseron family.

Great evening in Copenhagen Thursday the 30th May 2013 with 16 2010s and three 1990s wines from Bordeaux

Last Thursday, I was one of 16 tasters to participate in tasting of 15 2010s and drinking 1 2010 white and 3 1990s for following dinner at restaurant "Le Sommelier" in center of Copenhagen.

I've to say that it was exceptional showing of 2010s boarding for some wines to perfect/fantastic. Almost all of these wines have even improved since I tasted them from barrel. I've additionally tasted around 20 2010s at several properties (link - http://www.greatbordeauxwines.com/Bordeaux%202012.html) and I'll make a statement that this is fantastic vintage, which imho surpass 2009 in terms of ripeness of fruit and tannin, complexity and richness.

Especially, tannin of 2010 is fatter and riper than in 2009. In many wines you can't even taste tannin as it's packed in velvet. There's evident alcohol in few wines, both in the nose and palate, but the majority of 2010s aren't showing it. The balance of 2010 is simply extraordinary and will allow keeping the best wines for at least half a century. I'm not convinced that 2009 vintage can keep as long.

1st flight- Saint-Emilion and Pomerol:

1. Trottevieille– dark colour, great aroma of black cherries/raspberries/blueberries and chocolate, deep and intense on the nose, big concentration of sweet fruit and fat tannin, perfect ripeness and long aftertaste, classy and complex wine with great balance. Excellent example of keeping traditional winemaking intact and not overdoing it with some modern gimmicks. Great success for the property! 95p.

2. Troplong Mondot – very intense nose of black cherries/kirsch, you can feel alcohol on the nose and palate, hefty dose of new oak balanced by perfectly ripe fruit, obvious modern style with maximum of everything. A bit overdone. Long time runner – I believe it'll start to soften in ten years' time. 96p.

3. L'Evangile – excellent intensity of black cherries, grated chocolate, cocoa powder, truffles (iron oxide), very dense and precise, tight and fat on the palate, perfect ripeness of fruit and tannin, long, long finish that lasts for 1 minute. Exceptional stuff. 98p.

4. VCC - simply fantastic with sublime nose of chocolate mixed with beautiful black cherries, violets, silky palate filled with black cherries, astonishing richness, balance and structure. I believe this wine easily edges 2009 vintage. 99-100p.

2nd flight – Margaux and Péssac Leognan:

1. Giscours – fabulously aromatic nose full of black berries intermixed with chocolate and cocoa powder, seductive, stylish, complex, fabulous sweetness, fatness, stunning length, balance and structure. Awesome wine with great class, finesse and sophisticated touch, so typical for Margaux commune. 95-96p.

2. Palmer – incredibly scented nose and palate, black cherries and Varlhona chocolate everywhere, awesome complexity structure and length, fat fruit and tannin on the palate. Very sophisticated wine with both power and extreme elegance. Heavenly stuff. 99p.

3. Haut Bailly – probably the weakest 2010 tasted during our evening. Deep and intense black fruit on the nose and palate, fine balance and length. Lacks fatness, tightness, depth and concentration found in many other wines in this vintage. I wonder if yield here was too high? 92-93p.

4. La Mission Haut Brion – velvet and silk everywhere, extremely intense on the nose and powerful on the palate, incredibly sophisticated, fantastic complexity, structure and length. Aftertaste lasts for 2 minutes. Sheer class and style. This wine has evolved in perfect way since I tasted it from barrel in March 2011. Paradise in heaven! 100p.

3rd flight – Saint Julien and Saint-Estephe:

1. Gruaud Larose – yet again and again I've to use word black cherries/blueberries/blackberriesto describe nose of this wine. It is trademark of this vintage. Great sweetness of fruit, very concentrated on palate, great complexity, depth and length. Splendid wine for the vintage. 94p.

2. Leoville Poyferre – more of everything than in Gruaud Larose, modern style here, packed with perfectly ripe fruit, fabulous intensity and concentration. Fabulous structure and complexity. Perfect balance. Stunningly impressive wine. 97p.

3. Cos d'Estournel – black fruit en masse but also alcohol (cherry vodka) very, very evident on the nose and palate, extremely powerful on the palate with really fat fruit and tannin. Fruit is on border of overextraction and this wine is extremely massive and imho not at all typical Bordeaux. Closer to Napa Valley style. Either you like it or you hate it. I'm neutral and you can't abstract from the fact that this is high quality wine. 96p.

4. Montrose – simply monster wine with its thick aroma of black fruit, enormous concentration, very strong backbone, perfectly ripe fat fruit and fat tannin, stunning complexity and structure, impeccable balance. Incredibly stylish 2010 and showing 100% what this vintage has to offer. Mind-boggling effort. 98-99p. Tasted also in April 2013 at the property – same impression.

4th flight – Pauillac

1. Batailley – intense nose of black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid balance, sweetfruit and tannin, powerful on palate, fine complexity and structure, long fruity aftertaste. Splendid effort. 94p.

2. Pichon Baron – thick layer of fruit and tannin, perfectly ripe, sophisticated and stylish, fabulous richness of nuances, depth and length. Very strong backbone and impressive structure. Stunningly long finish. This is awesome stuff. 98p.

3. Latour – incredibly sophisticated and refined wine, but not as concentrated as I've expected. However, there are plenty of things to be hugely exited over, for this wine offers myriad of nuances, velvety structure, immense depth and length. Sublime wine, which has several decades to reach apogee. 98-99p.

45For dinner:

1. 2010 Pavillon Blanc de Chateau Margaux – acacia flower on the nose and palate, fresh, fine acidity, elegant and refined. 93p.

2. 1990 Latour – perfectly ripe fruit, truffles, incredibly concentrated, very strong structure, sophisticated, extremely long on the palate. Riveting elegance and finesse. 96p.

3. 1990 Montrose – animal, concentrated truffles, incredibly thick intensity, then explosion of everything on the palate which is just sensational. This is legend of perfection and a phenomenal wine. The nose changed constantly from animal flavor to truffle flavor and then back again. 100p. Paradise in heaven! Can you really get better wine than this one?

4. 1990 VVC – a bit jammy, very evident alcohol on the nose, medium body, fine complexity and structure. Wiped out by Montrose and Latour 1990. 92p.

5. 2006 Climens – from half bottle. Strong botrytised aromas of candied orange peel and crème brulée. Impressive length on the palate and very honeyed aftertaste. 94p.

Bordeaux tasting - 4th September 2013 in Copenhagen 

On the 4th September 2013 more than 20 properties from Bordeaux visited Copenhagen to present two wines of their choice. They have done this trip since 2002 with Bordeaux based negociant, Beyerman, but decided this time not to bring barrel samples of 2012 vintage.

D'Aiguilhe 2008 – earthy flavors, compact, strong, well-balanced with fine intensity and length. 89p.

D'Armailhac 2004 – aromatic on the nose, fine structure, complexity and length. Well balanced with fine ripe fruit and ripe tannin. Splendid effort. 91p.

D'Armailhac 2006 – more tannic, very Cabernet Sauvignon, a bit less fruity than 2004. Well-balanced wine which needs some more time to soften. 90p.

Beychevelle 2011 - Pretty aromatic and subtle wine, full-bodied. Splendid aftertaste with a lot of flavours. Graceful and stylish. Terrific wine. 92p.
Beychevelle 2009 – sweeter and riper fruit than in 2011. Silky fruit and silky ripe tannin, great structure, balance and length. Excellent and classy wine. 93+p.

Camensac 2001 - aromatic ripe dark berries on the nose, seductive and charming, ripe tannin, well- balanced. Fine aftertaste. 89p.

Camensac 2005 – of course more intensity, concentration and better structure here than in 2001. Really fine effort for the vintage from this property. 91p.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2006 – quite compact and concentrated, tannic with fruit not yet fully integrated. Firm aftertaste. 89p.

Cantemerle 2005 – tight and tannic, fat fruit, strong structure, splendid concentration, complexity and finish. Really well-made wine. 90p.

Cantemerle 2010 - very aromatic ripe dark berries on the nose, fat ripe fruit and tannin, intense, great balance. Terrific length and gracious aftertaste. Splendid effort for the vintage. 92p.

Chasse Spleen 2008- powerful and tannic, well-knitted with strong structure and firm aftertaste. Needs time to soften. 89p.

Chasse Spleen 2010 – offered excellent nose of black fruit with depth and intensity. Silky tannin, finesse, intense on palate and persistent fruity aftertaste. Excellent effort. 92+p.

La Clemence 2006 – same style as 2004 but ripeness of fruit isn't as good as in 2004. 86p.

La Clemence 2004 – aromatic wine which is now fully mature and therefore very enjoyable now. 87p.

Clerc Milon 2007 – quite nice wine to enjoy now. Round, charming and with tasty fruit. 86p.

Clerc Milon 2006 – stronger and tighter than 2007, riper fruit, better tannin and longer finish. 88p.

Clos L'Oratoire 2011 - offered fine nose of cherries, seductive style, splendid balance, elegance and smooth caressing aftertaste. 90p.

Coutet 2007– very elegant and stylish with splendid intensity and acidity, long and persistent aftertaste. Very impressive indeed. 93p.

Coutet 2009 – stronger than and with greater intensity of botrytised flavors, great depth, lot of sweetness and corresponding acidity, stunning balance and long, long lingering aftertaste. Simply great effort. 94p.

Destieux 2002 – nicely made, round, tasty, good balance. Ready to drink. 88p.

Destieux 2008 – aromatic and powerful wine, strong structure, meaty, persistent finish. 90p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2007 –complex and with some finesse Nice aromas of black cherries, blueberries and blackberries, and blackcurrants too. Good concentration with lovely structure and depth. Nice balance. Very good wine for the vintage. 89p

Domaine de Chevalier red 2000 – very complex and full of finesse. Strong aromas of black cherries, blueberries and blackberries, and blackcurrants too. Concentrated with lovely structure and depth. Splendid balance. Very fine wine indeed. 94p.

Domaine de Chevalier white 2007 - performed strong and powerful, lots of acacia flower, apple and citron grass. Great structure, depth and length on the palate, rich, great balance and strong finish. As always an utterly impressive stuff from this property! 96p.

Ferriere 2011 – somewhat reminiscent of its older brother (2004), but significantly lighter and a bit diluted. 87p.

Ferriere 2004 – very aromatic, fine intensity of aromatic cherries, fine depth and balance, long finish. Enchanting and lovely wine. 92p.

Gazin 2011- pretty elegant and soft, fine cherry aroma, fine balance and fruity finish. 91p.

Giscours 2004 – strong and very perfumed wine, excellent structure, length and finish. All the best from Margaux commune is here and it makes you very happy. Very seductive wine! 93p.

Giscours 2008 – this wine has turned into some pretty impressing effort. Powerful, fine aroma of black berries, fine minerality, depth, complexity and long aftertaste. 92p.

Grand Puy Lacoste 2007 – light and mature wine with tasty fruit, round and very tasty. Goog length and nice complexity. 87p.

Grand Puy Lacoste 2008 – riper and more concentrated than 2007, better structure and longer on palate. Fine balance. 92p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2011 - had oaky undertones, quite intense fruit, nice backbone and structure, and persistent finish. 89p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2008 – very similar to 2011. 89p.

Haut Bailly 2007 – charming, round, tasty fruit, very nice concentration and balance. Already drinkable. 87p.

Haut Bailly 2008 - riper and more concentrated than 2007, better structure and longer on palate. Fine balance. 91p.

D'Issan 2006 – very typical for the vintage with with tight structure and tight tannin, nice balance, tasty blackcurrants. Fine quality. 89p.

D'Issan 2008 – better ripeness of the fruit here than in 2006, more concentration and length, better structure. 91p.

Larrivet Haut Brion red 2007 – ligt but round and charming with attractive fruit. Soft and tasty, can be enjoyed now. 87p.

Larrivet Haut Brion red 2008 – far more stronger, more intense and sweeter fruit than in 2007. 91p.

Larrivet Haut Brion white 2009 – fine aroma of apple and pear, fine acidity and complexity, stylish and with splendid finish. 91p.

Larrrivet Haut Brion white 2011 - was elegant and refined on the nose and palate with lot of finesse. Splendid acidity, great aromas of pineapple, apple and acacia flower, stylish and classy. 93p.

Lascombes 2008 – elegant and well-balanced, good structure and complexity, rather on the light side. 88p.

Lascombes 2005 – showed great style and finesse. Very aromatic with black berries, excellent balance and complexity. Long caressing finish. True Margaux style. 93p.

Latour Martillac red 2011 – on the light side, very nice fruit, soft and tasty. Good length. 87p.

Latour Martillac red 2005 – excellent wine, perfectly ripe black fruit (cherries and blueberries), rich in flavors and nuances, long and smooth finish. Great effort. 93p.

Latour Martillac white 2011 - was oaky with lot of acidity. Great intensity of apple and citron grass, freshness, great length on the palate and long finish. Terrific wine. 93-94p.

Leoville Barton 2007 – really nice wine for the vintage and reminds a lot of L.Poyferre 2007. 88p.

Leoville Barton 2006 - of course better ripeness, greater concentration, better structure and more complexity here than in 2007. 92p.

Leoville Poyferre 2007 – very nice, attractive and charming wine with good stuffing, light-footed fruit and tannin and soft finish. Very enjoyable to drink right now. 88p.

Leoville Poyferre 2006 – better ripeness of fruit, better structure and longer on palate than 2007. Quite well-integrated tannin and fine balance. Fine effort. 92p.

Petit Village 2005 – a scent of truffles on the nose, tight and nicely composed, but it seems winemaking here wasn't optimal at all. Surprisingly for the vintage, fruit isn't 100% ripe. Fluffy work in the vineyard and cellar, but it was before famous consultant Stephane Derenencourt was brought in to help. 86p.

Petit Village 2010 – very different story here as you clearly can taste improvement after Derenencourt's arrival. Perfect ripeness of black fruit, fat ripe tannin, remarkable structure and depth, very fine balance and finish. Great effort for this property. The best Petit Village I've ever tasted. 92+p.

Phelan Segur 2006 – same style as 2006, maybe a bit more accessible at the moment. 88p.

Phelan Segur 2008 - good intensity of blackcurrants, good grip, nice length and firm aftertaste. 88p.

Pichon Baron 2007 – drinkable, well-balanced, good fruit, some green tannin. Not really interesting. 85p.

Pichon Baron 2008 – dense, tight, lot of fruit and tannin, powerful, strong structure, long and firm finish. For long term cellaring. 93p.

Pichon Comtesse 2004 – splendidly aromatic nose of black fruit, chewy and sappy on palate, very fine depth, structure and balance. Very seductive wine and splendid effort for the vintage. 93p.

Pichon Comtesse 2009 – made under new management. Excellent sweetness of fruit on the nose and palate, velvety texture, silky fruit and tannin, great depth, sophisticated, excellent balance and long velvety finish. Great stuff. 95p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2010 – strong and powerful, very intense aroma of black cherries, fabulous complexity and richness, perfectly balanced. Impressive length and finish. Immaculate winemaking. 97p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2007 – fruity, soft, round and charming. Ready to drink. 87p.

Smith Haut Lafitte white 2011 – aromatic with excellent acidity, apple, lemon grass and acacia flower. Remarkable balance, strong structure and long finish. 95p.

Suduiraut 2007 – fine botrytis and fine botrytised flavors as well, fine complexity and impressive length. 93p

Suduiraut 2010 – even better than 2007 with loads of everything, especially intensity, concentration and richness. Excellent stuff. 95p.

Talbot 2007 - light, round and charming, ready to drink now and won't improve. 85p.

Talbot 2008- offered aromatic fruit (black cherries), were quite intense and powerful on the palate, with fine structure, balance and finish. 91p.

Du Tertre 2007 - as many other 2007s tasted, it offered pleasure roundness, charm, quite tasty fruit and light texture. Already very drinkable. 86p

Du Tertre 2006 – well crafted, fine intensity and concentration, fine balance, complex and with long finish. Fine effort. 90p.

Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes - Copenhagen the 27th & 28th November 2013

Over two days (27th & 28th November), Copenhagen had been treated with visit with one of the best winemakers in Bordeaux, Francois Mitjavile. He's very charismatic, lyrical and passionate person.

Especially on the 27th November, during dinner for Commanderie de Bordeaux, Copenhagen Chapter, he did take audience by storm.

When he describes his wines, he always says, they should reflect emotion and freshness. He always seeks balance in the wine, sweet fruit, sweet tannins and lot offlavors. FM waits patiently so his grapes obtain perfect maturity inside and outside (phenolic ripeness).

He doesn't make second wine as he believes all his grapes have quality to go into Grand Vin. Overripe, grapes, raisiny grapes, perfectly ripe grapes and slightly underripe grapes will find their way to vats, but not the green ones. This is to have as many flavors in wine as possible. FM does pumping over, very gentle one, gentle maceration but no breaking the cap (upper layer in the vat consisting of grape skins). He utilises malolactic fermentation in barrels, only when it doesn't want to start in vats.

His intention is to make emotional and elegant wine, not purple black fruit bombs with hobs of tannin "eating your teeth", scratching your mouth and causing your stomach to feel unwell. He pointed out ironically, that everybody can makehis/her wine darker and violet by simply adding tartaric acid. FM keeps the color nature gives him for particular vintage.

I would lie if I didn't say, that I missed 2005 Tertre Roteboeuf and 2010 Tertre Roteboeuf/Roc de Cambes to be on the setlist. But FM didn't want to have these wines tasted in Copenhagen.

Here is the summary of wines tasted during two days:

Tertre Roteboeuf (80% Merlot + 20% C.Franc)

2012 – tasted during both days with same impression. Very aromatic, rich and sophisticated, fresh and delicate, striking level of ripeness + sweetness of fruit and tannin for the vintage, smooth black cherries and excellent complexity. Really excellent for the vintage and still improving. Kudos to Francois Mitjavile! 95p.

2011 – rich and sophisticated on the nose, lots of black cherries and blueberries, velvety texture, intense mid-palate, silky fruit with excellent support of ripe tannin, excellent balance and long finish. Another bull's eye effort from magical winemaker. 96p.

2008 – quite intense, mineral, muscular without being overdone, splendid fruit sweetness,sappiness and well-balanced. Shows fine level of complexity, depth and nuances. It's classic stuff from Tertre Roteboeuf which needs to age. 94p.

2007 – tasted during both days with same impression. Pleasantly fruity on the nose, clearly not from vintage with much sun, a bit "wet dog" smell, slightly aggressive on the palate, light and a little four-squared. I tasted this wine 3 years ago and it was much better – it seems that downhill ride has just started. 86p.

2006 – very aromatic, deep and intense nose of black fruit, complex and rich, excellently showing on palate with richness and depth, great finesse and elegance, great complexity, silky tannin, long, long finish. Incredible wine if you take the problems of the vintage into consideration. Another magic stuff from Francois Mitjavile! 95p.

2003 – quite special wine reflecting the extremely hot weather conditions during summer. Very licorice, figs, heated fruit everywhere but not overripe. Plummy flavors. Well balanced wine with fine length. Not my taste and I honestly think this wine isn't typical of Tertre Roteboeuf. 90p.

2001 – some wine-journalists believe that this vintage excels 2000 one at several properties in Right Bank. It's certainly not the case here, as this wine doesn't reach the heights of 2000. Sweet fruit and tannin - yes, rich and sophisticated- yes, complex – yes, splendid balance – yes, great intensity, concentration and length – no. 93p.

2000 – a mastodont of a wine, master class and a fantastic effort. It's style is like 1998 but with greater level of richness, depth, complexity, intensity and concentration. Incredibly sophisticated and refined. Mega long aftertaste, which lasts formore than one minute. Heaven! 99p.

1998 – aristocratic on the nose with excellent intensity of sweet cherries, rich and intense, great sweetness, great complexity, sensual and silky, luscious, tanninis covered in fruit and perfectly integrated with it. Incredibly long fruity finish. Magic stuff from Francois Mitjavile! 97p.

1997 – round, charming, light and soft. Very flavorful, tasty and well-balanced. In my opinion this wine was better than 2007 mostly because of better balance in 1997. 87p.

Roc de Cambes (60% Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot)

2012 – black cherries, chocolate, very tasty, attractive, sappy and fresh, splendid acidity and velvety finish. Really splendid for the vintage. 92p.

2011 - tasted during two days – same impression. Extremely aromatic, black cherries everywhere, grilled flavors, perfect balance, mineral, sappy, persistent and meaty aftertaste. Impressive. 92p.

2006 – attractive cherry nose with splendid purity, very sappy on the palate, perfectly ripe fruit, splendid balance, striking complexity and persistent finish. Splendid for the vintage. 91p.

2005 – tasted during two days – same impression. Thick aroma, thick intensity, hobs of black fruit mixed with chocolate, fat fruit and tannic with perfect level of ripeness, velvety texture, excellent balance, incredible sweetness, long, longfruity finish. Simply stunning wine and my favorite Roc de Cambes together with 2010 version. 93p.

2000 – Very potent and very intense, seems very young so evolution is slow, mineral, very rich and long. Many good years of further development ahead. Impressive stuff. 93p.

1998 – mineral, sappy, well-defined, fine balance and soft fruity finish. On the verge being fully matured. 89p.

Domaine de Cambes (part of Roc de Cambes vineyard, situated on the estuary of Dordogne river, AOC Bordeaux)

2005 – quite attractive cherry nose, round and very seductive, well-balanced and tasty. Joyful drinking. 86p.

 

PALMER TASTING IN COPENHAGEN ON WEDNESDAY THE 21ST MAY 2014

Tasting in Copenhagen was conducted by Christopher Myers, Palmer's export director for Europe. Btw, Bernard de Laage (Palmer's long serving PR chef) went on retirement at the end of 2013.

Just to state some things. Alter Ego isn't Palmer's second wine. It's a wine at its own, with shorter maceration and less new oak. Palmer's second wine is Reserve du General.

All wines except Palmer 1989 and 1985, came directly from Palmer's cellars.

First flight:

2004 Alter Ego 90p

Intense nose of black cherries and blackcurrants. This was a well-crafted wine with splendid balance, quite rich and with persistent finish. A real heartbreaker wine to enjoy in the next 10 years.

2005 Alter Ego 91p

Aromatic wine with fine structure. Fatter and meatier than 2004, more tannic, deeper and longer on the palate. Splendid sweetness of fruit and persistent fruity aftertaste. Will be even better in 5 years time.

2009 Alter Ego 92p

Compared with 2005, 2009 was a step up in terms of concentration and intensity. Compact and tannic, sappy, great structure and complexity, perfect ripe dark berries with catchy sweetness. Impressive stuff.

Second flight:

2006 Palmer 94p

Tight and tannic wine, Cabernet Sauvignon shining. Rather powerful than elegant, splendid backbone, depth and complexity. Firm and long finish. Still not quite developed yet and I think this wine needs more than 10years from now to be approachable. No Petit Verdot in this vintage for Palmer.

2008 Palmer 95p

More of everything here compared with 2006. Sappy, riper fruit with a lot of sweetness. Complex, refined and long finish. Great intensity of dark cherries on the nose and palate. Stylish wine with great depth and structure. Petit Verdot was included in the blend and it shows – strong backbone. Great effort for the vintage and this wine will keep for a long time.

Third flight:

2001 Palmer 93p

Really fine and aromatic on the nose with red berries. Vivid and flavorful on the palate. Ripe fruit and tannin. Quite complex and with fine depth. Soft finish. For me it tasted like this bottle showed in lighter and less intense way, than in 2007 when I last tasted this wine.

2004 Palmer 96p

Always one of my favorite Palmers. Extremely elegant and very aromatic wine with much finesse, silky texture and tannin. Fabulous complexity and depth, stunning balance. Long and sweet aftertaste. Aristocratic. Will have a long and great, great life.

Fourth flight:

1996 Palmer 95p

55% CS, 40% M, 4% CF and 1% PV. Already on the nose it is obvious, that Cabernet Sauvignon was the winner in this vintage. The ripeness of CS in this vintage was better than Merlot's. Mint, leather and cigar box on large scale. This wine was beautifully constructed, refined and with concentrated shape, powerful and sappy. This is textbook Palmer – beautiful wine which easily can keep its excellent ingredients in additional 20 years.

1999 Palmer 96+p

48% CS, 46% M and 6% PV. Probably in top three in this vintage. This wine has always impressed me. Very aromatic dark berries with great intensity. More concentrated, riper and sweeter fruit than in 1996, tight, great finesse and elegance, aristocratic, stunning balance, fabulous complexity and depth. Incredibly stylish and classy. To enjoy in the next 20 years.

Fifth flight:

1989 Palmer 93p

Sweet fruit, a bit alcoholic and warm, quite aromatic, fine balance and complexity, long soft finish. This bottle didn't seem to be a perfect example of this vintage for Palmer.

1985 Palmer (magnum) NR - corked.

BORDEAUX 2011

Thursday, 6th November 2014, I participated in tasting of 15 2011 Bordeaux wines, almost all high-level ones, in Copenhagen. This tasting wasn't blind and wines were served in five flights (4, 4, 2, 3 and 2 wines).

I've to admit I didn't have many expectations to wines fare extremely well, as it's appeared to me, that some 2011s I did taste this spring had lost some ingredients after bottling. But looking at my TNs now from tasting barrel samples and comparing with TNs on 6th November this year, I noticed similar ratings from me before and after bottling for several wines participating here. They did fare well indeed and more and I absolutely don't agree with negative judgement on this vintage from several wine-critics!

First flight:

1. Malescot St. Exupery
Very aromatic, nice load of dark cherries on the nose and palate, very good balance and depth, a tad lighter than usual, fine acidity. On the elegant side. I gave it 92-93p from barrel, it promised more, but now I downgrade it to 91p.

2. Calon Segur
Fine distinguished nose of tobacco and leather, promising palate with fine depth, fine acidity and well-obtained maturity of grapes, great balance. Very pretty and stylish wine. From barrel it was slightly better and I rated it 93p. Now I rate it 92p.

3. Batailley
Aromatic, juicy and sappy wine, lighter than usual, better on the nose, fruity and attractive with raspberry drops aroma/taste. No real depth. Tasted far better from barrel (92p), now I rate it 89p.

4. Leoville Poyferre (magnum)
Shows bitterness on the palate at first sip but it quickly disappears. Great style with fine depth, structure and balance. Lighter than usual. 93p from barrel, 92p now.

Second flight:

1. Ducru Beaucaillou
Big and broad-shouldered wine with splendid ripeness, depth, richness, backbone and long aftertaste. Very classy and stylish wine. Stunning. Haven't tasted it from barrel. Gets well-deserved 95+p.

2. Montrose
Here comes the classic stuff from St.Estephe. Really formidable on the nose with blackcurrants and black cherry fruit, strong backbone, well-defined and rich, deep and sophisticated, elegant and with long aftertaste. Excellent wine. From barrel I rated it 91-92p, it improved a lot since then, so 94p now is well-deserved.

3. Lynch Bages
Very captivating nose of lack fruit, aromatic, tasty, fruity, very adorable, velvety on the palate, great balance. Heartbreaker wine. Not the big science and concentration here, but it smiles all over the place. Same rating now and then - 92p.

4. Pontet Canet
More of everything compared to Lynch Bages but this wine suffers a bit when I compare it to Ducru Beaucaillou and Montrose. From barrel it was 94p, after bottling it's less impressive. 93p.

Third flight:

1. Lafite Rothschild
Excellent and sophisticated nose of dark fruit, finesse and elegance, very rich and well-defined. Lighter than usual and I think it lacks some more depth. Maybe it just need time to put on weight and develop better. From barrel it was 95+p, now it's 94p?

2. Mouton Rothschild
Much better than Lafite with great sophisticated touch, stunning ripeness and depth. Nose is so aromatic and distinguished, captivating, intense and deep. Immense class and style. This wine was already one of my favorites from barrel (96p) and it didn't change from the bottle. 96+p.

168

Fourth flight:

1. VCC
Very good nose of dark cherries, light, lacks depth length and drive. Tastes like bottling deprived this wine of many things. Will it come back. From barrel it was 94-95p, but now I've great difficulty to award it more than 90p.

2. La Conseillante
Better wine than VCC, greater depth, concentration and length. Great deal of finesse and elegance combined with sophisticated touch. 94p from barrel, 92p from me now.

3. L'Eglise Clinet
Among my favorites from barrel and it didn't disappoint. What a rich, sophisticated and creamy wine. Velvety all over and incredibly balanced. Strong dark chocolate flavor on the nose. Immense wine. 96p now and then.

Fifth flight:

1. Pavie Macquin
Very dark color, excellent nose of black cherries, strong backbone, great depth, strong structure, great length, finishes strong but fruity. It's like this wine is saying - "Don't mess with me big boys - I can handle you all". Better than from barrel (92-93p), now fully deserved 95p.

2. Ausone
Well-defined on the nose, deep, aristocratic. Full hammer on the palate bordering brutality, what a richness and length. Animal wine of highest quality. 96p now and then.

167

 

 BORDEAUX 2012

 

165

 

166

 

BORDEAUX 1985 REVISITED

On Thursday, November 26th, year 2015, 11 experienced wine tasters gathered together at classic French-Danish restaurant in Copenhagen, Restaurationen, to taste 16 wines from 1985 vintage, including 5 1.Growths from Left Bank, 1 PGCC A from St.Emilion named Cheval Blanc and whole 6 2.Cru Classes from Haut Medoc.

I was overseeing harvest (my first ever) in September 1985, it was my second visit to Bordeaux (first one took place in March 1984 in terrible rainy weather). I was treated with beautiful weather, sunshine from morning to evening, 27 degrees Celsius in whole September. Very, very few properties had thermoregulated vats, many others used ice blocks to cool the must from outside.

One of the main reasons for me to remember 1985 was meeting Jacques Thienpont of Le Pin, just by accident while going to Cheval Blanc, turning by mistake left after Catusseau instead of going straight some further 500 meters and then turning right. I also remember eating more than half a kilo of big, fat, juicy, sweet Merlot grapes at La Dominique.

Many wine critics call this vintage a woman vintage, because of wines seductive approach, great sweetness and balance, elegance and charm. I completely agree. One’s to remember that 1985 produced enormous amount of wine as yields were between 60 and 70 hl/ha at many famous places. No green harvest, no leaf removing. Remarkable vintage in many ways as my TNs imply! It's kept beautifully for 30 years and has been an open arms vintage from the very beginning. Classic Bordeaux at large!

The tasting:

Tattinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005 – fresh with fine acidity, citrus, rich and refined with finesse and sophisticated touch. Long finish. 95p.

Rausan Segla 2. Cru Classe Margaux – light red, really fabulous on the nose with typical aromatic scent of Margaux commune, black cherries, a lot of sweetness, truffy with sheer elegance and finesse. Classy wine and still going strong. I didn’t expect this wine to be that excellent – there’s for sure at least 10 years more life in it! 94p.

Leoville Barton 2. Cru Classe St. Julien – much darker in colour, powerful, blackberry/blueberry compote, strong tannin to support the fruit, barely so elegant and finesse marked as RS, but this wine is something of a beast and will probably keep without any problems for another 20 years. 95p.

Gruaud Larose 2. Cru Classe St. Julien – fabulous thick layered nose of blueberries, fine acidity, truffles, fine grained tannin, great balance, depth and finish. As excellent as Leoville Barton but different style and I think it won’t keep as long as Leoville Barton. 95p.

Leoville Lascases 2. Cru Classe St. Julien – strong and powerful, reminded a lot of Gruaud Larose, but for me it lacked sweetness and length of it. 93p.

Cos d’Estournel 2 Cru Classe St. Estephe – yougurt, strong and powerful, spicy with truffles, sappy, big structure and backbone, great balance, depth and length. Mother….. of a wine, give it 20+ years more! 96p.

Blind wine – everybody guessed Bordeaux. It turned out to be 1985 Dunn Vineyards from Napa. I guessed Calon Segur. Pepper, strong tannin, strong structure and depth, meaty finish. This excellent wine has still 10-15 years to go. 95p.

Pichon Comtesse 2. Cru Classe Pauillac – extremely seductive on the nose, extremely charming, truffy, intense. A lot of sweetness, great, great balance, silky fruit and tannin, long aftertaste. In full blossom and what a treat!! I simply adored it. Sure bet for 15 years more in the cellar. 96p.

Lynch Bages 5. Cru Classe Pauillac – more raw and more powerful, great complexity to start with but after 20 minutes in the glass this wine falls apart for some reason. 92p?

Then 5 1.Growths served in one flight:

Haut Brion – aromatic and complex nose of blackcurrants, very stylish, excellent sweetness, truffles, great balance, silky fruit and tannin. 20 more years? Impressive stuff. 96p.

Margaux – already tasted twice in 2015 with same impression. I don’t think this wine offers tasters really much in terms of aroma, depth, structure and sweetness. It’s light but also round and charming. 90p.

Mouton Rothschild – distinguished and classy stuff, extremely rich and refined, sophisticated, truffles, fabulous structure and depth. Bull’s eye! Easily additional 20 years in the cellar. 97p.

Lafite – powerful, deep and strong, lots of fruit and tannin, perfect balance and big meaty aftertaste. Not as distinguished as Mouton Rothschild, but who cares. Many years to go. 96p.

Latour – a bit light and not really up to level of quality and excitement of Mouton Rothschild and Lafite. Still it isn’t a bad wine, just gracious, seductive and tasty. 92p.

Then two wines from Right Bank:

La Conseillante Pomerol – anonymous, light, round and pleasant. Just Ok wine. 88p.

Cheval Blanc PGCC “A” St.Emilion – showing some age, truffles, refined and elegant with finesse. Stylish wine which tastes extremely well. Excellent. 95p.

And we finished with:

1985 La Tour Blanche – this vintage wasn’t something memorable in Sauternes and Barsac because of lack of botrytis caused by lack of rain. Sweetness in wines was more the result of grapes drying out because of the heat. This wine was served from double magnum and was just OK. 87p.

164

 MONTROSE TASTING IN COPENHAGEN ON THURSDAY THE 16TH JUNE 2016

One of my favorite Bordeaux wines visited Copenhagen on 16th June. Originally, Montrose's present technical director, Herve Berland, was supposed to conduct the tasting, but had to cancel his arrival at the last moment. Montrose's sales manager, Lorraine Watrin, came instead and was worthy replacement. I helped to arrange this tasting in cooperation with Commanderie de Bordeaux á Copenhague.

Wines for tasting and dinner were: 2010-9-5 La Dame de Montrose, 2012-2011-2010-2009-2005-2003-2000-1995 (magnum), 1970 and 1964 (latter - negociant Barriere bottling). Chateau donated 2010 and 2005 La Dame + 2012 Grand Vin. 2009 La Dame, 2011-2005-2000 Grand Vin also came from Montrose's cellar and at reasonable prices. 2010, 2009, 2003, 1995, 1970 and 1964 were purchased from wine-merchant/private collector in Copenhagen.

Montrose changed hands in 2004 and the last vintage for "old" regisseur/cellar master was 2005. New people arrived in 2006. Jean-Bernard Delmas, father of Jean-Philippe Delmas (Haut Brion/La Mission) kept his position as technical director until 2011. Herve Berland, who spent 5 years at Mouton Rothschild as manager (2006-2011), became technical director of Montrose in April 2012.

Montrose is a force to be reckoned with, no doubt about it. 1. Growth quality in many vintages.

2010 La Dame de Montrose - great second wine and a clear indication how stunning Grand Vin really is because of selection! Perfect ripeness, fatness, dense and long. Silky texture and silky fruit/tannin. 92p.

2009 La Dame de Montrose - not as fat and sweet as 2010, spicy flavors, still splendid second wine. 89p.

2005 La Dame de Montrose - not far from 2010 version, sweet fruit, silky fruit and tannin, immensely seductive. Another winemaker. Simply splendid! 91p.

2012 Montrose - this wine is improving every time I taste it. Very seductive, classy and distinguished juice, graphite and toasted bacon again, fine sweetness and acidity, impressive structure and length. More woman kiss on the cheek than friendly punch on the face. Excellent for the vintage. 94p.

2011 Montrose - denser and tighter than 2012, but lacking the level of sweetness 2012 has, however still very Montrose with splendid complexity, structure and length. 93p.

2010 Montrose - tasted in pair with 2009. It was like meeting twins - this wine was exact copy of 2009! The only difference - more sweetness and fatter texture. Velvety hammer worth 100p! One thing to remember - in 2010 ripeness inside and outside grapes happened at the same time, in 2009 there was 10 days difference because of rain in September.

2009 Montrose - thick, fat and dense, incredibly intense nose of blueberries, black cherries and blackcurrants, stunning intensity on the palate, extremely powerful, stunning balance and length. Force of the winemaking. This wine is fully on the level with 1. Growths. 100p.

2005 Montrose - tasted in pair with 2003 and despite how I love 2005 vintage, I felt it couldn't compete with 2003. More elegance and finesse here, very seductive with lot of sweetness, great balance and persistent finish. Still exceptional vintage for the property. 97p.

2003 Montrose - distinguished nose of leather, graphite and roasted bacon. Very intense nose of blackcurrants, rich and sophisticated on palate, very strong backbone, exquisite balance, complexity and staggering richness. No sign at all of cooked and heated flavors, fresh and with incredibly long finish. This is fantastic tribute to the vintage! Kudos to the winemaker! 99-100p.

2000 Montrose - great piece of winemaking, this wine was like well-made cake, aromatic, beautifully constructed, polished, multi-layered and incredibly complex. Maybe not as concentrated on the day compared to how I tasted it last time (app. 5 years ago). 96+p.

1995 Montrose (magnum) - graphite and pencil, strong backbone, polished, fine structure and complexity, well-balanced and with persistent finish. Splendid for the vintage. 93p.

1970 Montrose - significant flavor of graphite, earthy and polished, well-structured with splendid complexity, velvety texture and long finish. Much better than reviews on this vintage from other wine-critics. 94p.

1964 Montrose - fishy, extracted coffee beans, light, nice fruit. Rather boring. 84p.

 

Grand Cercle tasting of 85 red vines in 2014 vintage and 20 white dry wines in 2015 vintage

 

2016H 4

85 reds in 2014 vintage lined up in La Croizille's tasting room - October 2016

In 2014, once again weather Gods entertained/blessed Bordeaux wine people with ever changing weather. Winter in Bordeaux was one of the wettest and warmest in several decades, while spring months offered warm March, reasonably warm April and misty May.

Flowering finished early but was hampered by serious outbreaks of mildew and odium. Summer was so-so with some outbreaks of really warm weather in June, while July offered only few days with temperatures over 30 degrees Celsius. August provided nothing of the warm and sunny weather, and chateau owners were really getting depressed and started talking about 2014 being like repeat of 1993 or 1994 vintage.

Everything changed however in the beginning of September, when the warm and sunny weather came back to Bordeaux, thanks to a high pressure weather system, which parked close to South-West France. The average temperature for whole September was around 27 degrees Celsius with many dry and sunny days. This and cool nights allowed grapes to ripen slowly and keep freshness intact. When I met Olivier Bernard from Domaine de Chevalier at de Fieuzal on the 24th September 2014, he told me that he hasn't seen so beautiful September in 40 years. October followed in same tracks as beautiful September,

Merlot had great ripening conditions, especially at Left Bank, but for some reason it wasn't that perfect for this grape variety on Right Bank, due to a heavy rain in one day, mid- September in Pomerol, where massive 80 mm of rain came down from skies. It disturbed ripening process on vines growing on heavy clay soils.

Cabernets fully enjoyed slow ripening, gaining in concentration and acidity levels. Both became great success in 2014. Petit Verdot, Bordeaux' "enfant terrible" among grapes varieties, ripened perfectly as well and complimented in great way Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc on the Left Bank.

All in all 2014 vintage in red reminds me of 2008 vintage with better ripeness in fruit, silkier tannin and more depth, and of course2014 has this intense and perfect acidity, which you don't find in 2008. It’s truly remarkable element of the wine assuring longevity of it, created by long ripening period of grapes during perfect sunny weather and cool nights in September and October, and it’s present in red, dry white wines and sweet white wines.

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However, tasting of 85 reds in 2014 vintage at Chateau La Croizille in Saint Emilion, late October 2016, was indifferent, some truly remarkable wines, some anonymous because of not precise winemaking and some samples not being fresh and being tainted/oxidised. 2015 vintage is exceptional for all types of wines in Bordeaux and it was convincingly confirmed during my tasting of 20 dry whites in this vintage after tasting of reds in vintage 2014 same place.

For the record, it was blind tasting, so I only knew which commune/district I was tasting wines from, both for reds and whites.

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2014 reds

BORDEAUX & COTES DE BORDEAUX

Clos Puy-Arnaud (CAS/CDB) and Tour de Mirambeau Cuvee Passion (B) impressed with appealing sweetness and acidity, were well-balanced and well-structured, meaty and with persistent finish. Rated 89p.

Lesparre (GDV) was potent on the nose and palate, fresh cherries, fine acidity, ripe fruit and tannin, fine balance. Thumbs up. 88p. Girolate (B) and de Laussac Cuvee Sacha (B) were well-made wines with fresh nose of violet, very good structure and aftertaste. Both rated 88p.

Cote Monpezat (CAS/CDB) and Mont Perat (B) were both elegant, round and fruity wines with nice balance and smooth fruity finish. Rated 87p.

FRONSAC/CANON-FRONSAC

Dalem was very fruity and aromatic wine with fine balance, acidity, structure and length. Fine quality here. 90p.

La Vieille Cure was strong, powerful, with big fruit and tannin, plus fine supporting acidity. Well-made. 89p.

De La Riviere and Moulin Pey Labrie showed good ripeness, sweetness and acidity. Oaky and strong. Both need time to become rounder wines. 87p.

POMEROL

Clos La Vieille Eglise pleased tremendously with sweet fruit on the nose and palate, chocolate and cocoa on the nose, great style and splendid supporting acidity, focused and precise. Double thumbs up!! 92p.

Bonalgue was strong and powerful, rather closed, with nice acidity and structure. A well-made wine with persistent finish. 89p.

Mazeyres did well too, spicy, good mixture of fresh acidity and ripe fruit. Very fine fruity aftertaste. 88p.

Beau Soleil, Clos Vieux Taillefer and Lecuyer were all three close to Mazeyres, with same fruity character but less concentration and shorter finish. 87p. Bellegrave displayed nice fruitiness on the nose and palate, good structure, nice acidity and reasonable length. 87p.

LALANDE DE POMEROL

L’Ambroisie du Chateau La Croix des Moines was very adorable wine. Raspberry drops, fruity and tasty, nicely balanced. It had splendid acidity and length on the palate. 91p. Same winemaker as for Clos La Vieille Eglise!

De Chambrun, Grand Ormeau, Perron La Fleur and Siaurac showed some freshness, ripe black fruit, nice grip, roundness and quite nice acidity. Well-balanced and attractive wines. 89p.

SAINT EMILION GRAND CRU

Tour Baladoz offered raspberry fruit on the nose and palate, was well-knitted, tasty and well balanced. Splendid acidity, fine structure and length on the palate. Very fine effort. 90p.

Laplagnotte Bellevue tasted similar to Tour Baladoz and was almost equally fine, but tasted more of cherries than raspberries. 89-90p.

L’Hermitage de Lescours, Lynsolence, Pas de L’Ane, Patris and Rol Valentin presented themselves just fine with classy style, fine acidity, freshness, sappy, well-composed, with persistent fruity finish. Well-deserved 89p.

Magrez Fombrauge was quite strong and oaky, very modern and extracted. 88-89p.

La Croizille was made in modern style, extracted, but very good wine overall, firm finish. Well-balanced. 88p.

Boutisse and Les Gravieres followed in same track as La Croizille. Scored 87-88p.

SAINT EMILION GRAND CRU CLASSE

Not a single underperforming wine – well done!

La Marzelle was well-packed with fruit and tannin, fine acidity, intense and tight, splendid structure, persistent finish. Impressive wine. 92p.

Laroze and de Pressac followed closely after, were delicious, flowery, attractive, with splendid style, structure, backbone and finish. Thumbs up. 91p.

Fonplegade and Yon Figeac displayed classy style, freshness, sappy, very fine in composition, fruity taste. Well-deserved 90p rating!

Fleur Cardinale, Fombrauge, Fonroque and Sansonnet were all four strong wines, tannic and oaky, but well-equipped with ripe fruit, fine structure and persistent finish. Modern style wines. Rated 89p.

Grand Corbin Despagne and Le Preurie tasted similar to Fleur Cardinale, Fombrauge, Fonroque and Sansonnet, but offered less intensity and concentration. 88p.

SAINT EMILION SATELITES

Vieux Chateau Palon was similar to Tour Bayard but offered more intensity and concentration. 87p.

Tour Bayard displayed fruity character, sweetness, roundness and charm, was well-balanced and tasty, very good overall. 86-87p.

HAUT MEDOC

D’Agassac was fruity with good grip, nicely structured and with good concentration. 86-87p.

COMMUNE DE MEDOC

Tour de Pez and Tour des Termes, both from Saint-Estephe commune, were potent, fruity and with nice acidity. 87p. D’Arsac from Margaux, displayed flowery character, good concentration and intensity, nice structure and finish. 87p.

GRAVES

Saint Robert Cuvee Poncet Deville. Very fruity, stylish, good concentration and intensity, nicely structured. 87p.

PESSAC-LEOGNAN

Le Sartre was quite meaty and well-defined, with good depth, backbone and persistent finish. 90p.

Couhins Lurton and Rochemorin were very fruity, stylish, with good concentration and intensity, nicely structured. 89p.

Haut Bacalan did well but was less intense and drier on the palate than C.Lurton and Rochemorin. 88p.

De Cruzeau and Haut Lagrange showed modern style and were quite extracted. 87-88p.

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2015 WHITES

RIGHT BANK

Sainte-Marie (EDM) had quite intense aroma of acacia flower, excellent acidity and strong backbone and long finish. 91p. D’Arsac Cuvee Celine (B) had same excellent acidity and was very apple and pineapple scented. 91p. Magrez Fombrauge (B) was in same league with more taste of peach and dried apricot. 91p.

Girolate (B) and Tour de Mirambeau (B) was almost as impressive as S-M with slightly less intensity and length. 90p. Penin (BS) did also show fine aromatic nose, fine acidity and fruity finish. 89-90p.

Cote Montpezat (CAS/CDB), Reynon (CAS/CDB) and de La Riviere (B) showed freshness, fine aromas of apple and acacia flower, were tasty and adorable. 89p.

Lesparre (GDV) and Mont-Perat (B) were both light wines with nice aroma of green apple, good acidity and fruity finish. 86p.

LEFT BANK

Clos Floridene (G), Couhins Lurton (PL), Cruzeau (PL), Rochemorin (PL) and Le Sartre (PL) had all intense aromas of green apple, acacia flower and lemon grass, excellent acidity, great structure and backbone, impressive acidity and long aftertaste. 92p.

Saint Robert Cuvee Poncet Deville (G) surprised a great deal by showing superb quality. Fresh, acacia, peach, tasty, fine acidity, lingering finish. 91p.

Crabitey (G) was considerably lighter than other wines mentioned here. Aromatic, nice quality. 87-88p.

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B = Bordeaux

BS = Bordeaux Superieur

C/CDB – Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux

CAS/CDB – Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux

EDM – Entre-Deux-Mers

GDV – Graves de Vayres

G – Graves

PL – Pessac-Leognan

 

THAT'S THE WAY TO CELEBRATE 70TH BIRTHDAY!

Menu and wines for the evening 2

Menu and wines for this unforgetable evening/night!

On Friday, the 9th December 2016, at restaurant Le Sommelier in the center of Copenhagen, I held my pre-birthday party (I passed the 70th milestone of my life in the end of December 2016). I treated my friends and myself with 1 champagne, 3 white dry wines, 20 red wines, 2 sweet white wines and one Armagnac, accompanied by appetizers to champagne, 6 courses, 1 dessert and one birthday cake.

We were only 6 participants due to late cancellations from people I invited. Anyway, I immensely enjoyed a great, great company of Danish wine-friends, my daughter and Olivier Bernard from Domaine de Chevalier. We’ve had a stellar evening. Not a single wine served that evening was corked or oxidized. Many wines were simply stunning and lived fully up to their reputation and fame. All wines were tasted blind and even me, who knew which wines were served in each flight, didn't know the order of these served. Wines were chosen according to last digit in my birthday year (6) for whites (dry and sweet) and 0 for reds (as I celebrated 70 years). You will think it was outrageous to serve so many wines? - not really imho, you only live once!!

Excellent food was cooked by Chef Christian Marquard and wines were very professionally cared for by young Daniela Mylin, chef of the restaurant/chef sommelier of Le Sommelier. Historic tasting and one I never forget thanks to my precious friends!!

Tasting notes – relatively short ones as I had to take care of my guest and there wasn’t time to write big stories about each wine.

1. Champagne Dom Perignon Rose 1996 – really impressive stuff, virile, sophisticated, rich, great acidity and sweet tones. Awesome to enjoy. 97p.

2. Dry whites – three wines. 1976 D.D.Chevalier had a little touch of oxidation, which disappeared quickly, and showed nice acidity and concentration. Getting old. 89p. 1986 D.d.Chevalier was simply impressive stuff with great acidity, vitality, depth and long aftertaste. Tasted young and fresh despite being 30 years old. 94p. 1996 Chablis Les Clos from Vincent Dauvissat had fine smoked tones of stones, penetrating nose of melted butter and long aftertaste. A bit caught by age and imho it’ll not improve. 93p.

3. Red flight 1 with title “Up and running” – Les Carmes Haut Brion, Seguin and Belle Brise, all in 2010 vintage. I’ve never tasted the two last mentioned wines together, so it was a kind of test. L.C.H. Brion was muted, light in concentration and structure. It was surprising when you take the quality of 2010 vintage in general. Since arrival of new manager/winemaker Guillaume Pouthier in 2012, the quality took a big step up. 89p. Seguin from village of Canejan in Pessac-Leognan AOC (my discovery while touring Graves/Pessac Leognan in September 2010) had an intense nose of cherries, excellent structure and depth, exquisite balance and long persistent finish. Utterly impressive stuff. 95p. Last wine in the flight was Belle Brise from Pomerol, my discovery also but since 1996. This miniscule vineyard/garden is situated very close to Libourne. Strong with modern taste, very cherry, catching sweetness of fruit and tannin, silky fruit and tannin. Long and persistent finish. Fabulous wine. 95+p. No oenologist, no consultant and no modern remedies here – “vin au naturel”!

4. Red flight 2 with title “Magic” – Tertre Roteboeuf 2010-2000-1990 and Domaine de Chevalier 1990. 2010 TR tasted more like kirsch than wine, but I’m pretty sure the alcohol will soon integrate. Otherwise, it was big, packed with silky fruit and tannin, immensely flavoured and long. 96p. 2000 TR was epic wine with intense nose of truffles, formidable structure and depth, stunning precision, focus and complexity, and mega long aftertaste. Boom! 98p. 1990 TR tasted lighter and not so highly impressive as last time (in 2011) and was clearly surpassed by 2000 version. 92p. 1990 D.d.Chevalier (“black horse” quickly detected by tasters) showed truffy nose, very good complexity and very good length. Fruit tasted a bit warm. 89p.

5. Red flight 3 with title “Sky is the limit" and six wines in 1990 vintage. Beausejour Duffau was kind of disappointing if you take its fame in the context. One of my guests tasted this wine many times in the recent years and told me it was much better 10 years ago. Fine complexity but not striking concentration and richness. 93p. Angelus didn’t hit the bull’s eye either. Was better too 10 years ago. Truffy, not as powerful as expected, not rich and long as expected. 93p. Montrose once again delivered. It’s easy to fall on your knees and worship this wine, because it’s simply phenomenal one and masterpiece of winemaking. 100p. Troplong Mondot was a stunning mouthful with everything in perfect harmony. One of my guests said to me that this wine was disguised as a port. Frankly, I didn’t care. I loved it! 97p. Cheval Blanc matched Montrose to great extent with Cabernet Franc at full blossom. Fascinating and riveting display of richness, sophisticated touch and variety of flavours. 99-100p. Le Pin was more kinky and funky than Cheval Blanc, but equal in every aspect to it. Here, Merlot was the showcase. 99-100p.

6. Red flight 4 with title "Another day in paradise" and four wines in 2000 vintage. La Mission Haut Brion tasted closed but its all cylinders were fully loaded, just waiting for perfect time to show all the fabulous things. Patience required. 96-98p. Lafleur was just timeless treat, so dense, so sophisticated. Paradise! 100p. Montrose stood up against big hitters here but wasn’t trashed at all. Strong potent and very long finish. 96p. Lafite is just perfect if you want to enjoy finesse, grace and richness of nuances. That was exactly what we had in 2000 plus striking structure, depth and balance. 99p.

7. Red flight 5 with title “As time goes by” and three wines in 1950 vintage, all chateau bottled. Pavie (B-niveau) was just awesome like well-trained 66 years old guy running marathon. Very cherry, strong, long and in perfect balance. Still many years to go! Some of my guest took it for 1982 vintage! 94p. Leoville Las Cases, the one with lowest stand, tasted old like extracted coffee beans. Gone. 75p. Troplong Mondot, despite low stand close to C, made by cousin of owner of Pavie at that time, Valette, was as similar and impressive as Pavie. 94p. 1970 Ausone was withdrawn before the flight as I realized that it'd be better to keep 100% focus on three wines in same vintage.

8. Sweet whites – two wines in 1986 vintage. Gilette had a significant flavor of almonds, great sweetness and acidity, great depth and backbone, long and velvety on the palate with strong and fat finish. Aged for 20 years in small concrete vats for 20 years and no wooden vats/barriques here. 96-97 p. Yquem edged Gilette in terms of depth, sophisticated touch and nuance richness but only and just that. 98p.

9. Dinner finished with awesome 1945 vintage Armagnac “Fontaine de Coincy”, same owner as previously mentioned Belle Brise in Pomerol. De Coincy family has owned their property in Bas Armagnac for 400 years.

20161210 000757 2

 

Latest news

2017 VINTAGE LOOK VERY GOOD INDEED - HARVEST IS GOING ON NOW IN SPLENDID CONDITIONS

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NEW! PROFILE OF LA CABANNE, CERTAN DE MAY AND LEOVILLE LAS CASES, FIRST TWO PROPERTIES ARE FROM POMEROL AND THE THIRD ONE FROM ST.JULIEN.  DISCOVER THESE WHILE CHECKING "CHATEAU PROFILES"

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DURING TWO WEEKS FROM END OF MARCH TO MID-APRIL 2017, I TASTED APP. 420 BARREL SAMPLES OF 2016 VINTAGE. PLEASE READ MY REPORT WITH A LOT OF TASTING NOTES AND CONCLUSIONS IN CHAPTER "VINTAGES".

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HERE ARE MY TOP TEN WINES OF 2016

1. Montrose 1990 100p 2. Latour 2000 100p 3. Lafleur 2000 100p 4. Le Pin 1990 99p 5. Cheval Blanc 1990 99p 6. Lafite 2000 99p 7. Montrose 2010 99p 8. Yquem 1986 98p 9. Tertre Roteboeuf 2000 98p 10. Certan de May 1982 98p

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THAT'S THE WAY TO CELEBRATE 70TH BIRTHDAY - CHECK OUT THE ARTICLE WITH SAME TITLE IN THE CHAPTER "HORISONTAL AND VERTICAL TASTINGS"