2009 Bordeaux

 

24POTENTIALLY AN EXCELLENT VINTAGE - BUT TOO INCONSISTENT TO BE REGARDED AS A VINTAGE OF THE CENTURY

"Fiche technique" for tasters, no info on paper. March 2010

Weather conditions

2009 started as in 2008 with the first two months reasonably quiet with temperatures, rainfall and sunshine days below normal average year. March was rainful and lacked sun, April and May were in same style.

The overcast and rainful weather resulted in uneven flowering and mildew was present several places. Hopes for a very good vintage faded dramatically.

But June raised hopes with dry, sunny and warm weather which allowed flowering to perform very fast and even with excellent grape set. July and August continued with same weather pattern as June and July.

September was also warm and sunny in the beginning and first problem arrived - water stress. In many vineyards vines stopped growing due to lack of water in the soil. And many places in Bordeaux grapes were ripe inside but not outside (phenolic ripeness).

Luckily, the weekend of 18-20 September 2009 saw Bordeaux receive 30-80 mm of rain, which fell in form of heavy but short-lived downpours.

This meant that rain water just sailed quickly through vineyards on the surface and didn't really have time to wet soil so deep that it was enough to dilute grapes and cause rot.

Then it was what to do for wine-makers with this fantastic material Mother nature provided all over in Bordeaux. Here, the intelligence, skills, cool head and experience of winemaker came to count. It wasn't like in 2005 vintage when all was served on a silver spoon and this vintage was extremely easy to make. Ripeness inside and outside grapes happened almost ot the same time. In Bordeaux they said - "if you didn't make a good wine in 2005 then you should find yourself another job!"

2009 vintage was different - there was a huge time gap between maturity inside grapes and skins. You had to wait longer for maturity of the skins. Michel Rolland wrote very wise words about 2009 vintage in his "La Gazette" - "In the wineries, with today's technology promoting a true respect of the fruit, the rule was as usual in these exceptional years; do not waste quality material being over-enthusiastic; do what need to be done; don't over do it, smoothness and precision being the guidelines". Who listened to these words and who didn't? - this was to be found out about during primeur tastings.

Winemakers had to deal with very high alcohol levels in 2009, therefore careful maceration in terms of time and temperature was incredibly important in order to find balance between alcohol, tannin and fruit. Unfortunatelly, several winemakers were trapped in their attempt to do something extraordinary and they simply overdid vinification, producing wines that are too alcoholic, too unbalanced, overextracted and too dry on palate and aftertaste.

Imho, Margaux appelation and Pessac-Léognan appelation did best in terms of many fine wines in whole district. Once again the districts of Cotes de Castillon and Fronsac/Canon-Fronsac produced many wines which QPR is astonishing and put several wines of higher rank in St-Emilion and Pomerol to shame. In other districts, there was too much rollercoaster thing for my taste.

Personally I don't think 2009 will outlive 2005; I don't find these full-blown aromas on the nose and many layers of coating fruit on the palate, depth and iron-steel structure in 2009 as it was obvious to find in 2005 vintage. Yes, 2009 wines are easy to taste, silky with extraordinary fruit and highest tannin index ever seen. Somewhat, I feel this vintage is very difficult to understand, because it's really unpredictable how it'll develop.

2009 is once again a very fine vintage for white dry Bordeaux, on the line or maybe even better than 2008 and for white sweet Bordeaux again a stunning vintage, while in my honest opinion not equal to 2001, it seems however to fully compete with 2005 vintage and exceed 2007.

There are app. 300 wines rated - for several reasons (mainly because of tight schedule) wines like f.i. Calon Segur, L'Eglise Clinet, Pichon Baron, La Mondotte and Valandraud were not tasted.

RATINGS

Alter Ego de Palmer Margaux 90-91 L'Ambroisie du Ch. La Croix St.Moines Lalande de Pomerol 89-90 Ampelia Côtes de Castillon 87 Angélus St-Emilion GC 92-93 d'Angludet Margaux 92 d'Arche Sauternes & Barsac 90 d'Armailhac Pauillac 90-92 Ausone St-Emilion GC 97-99

Balestard La Tonnelle St-Emilion GC 85 Barde-Haut St-Emilion GC 91-92 Barrabaque Canon-Fronsac 92 Bastor Lamontagne Sauternes & Barsac 91 Beauregard Pomerol 85Batailley Pauillac 90 Beau-Séjour Bécot St-Emilion GC 94-95 Beaumont Haut-Médoc 88 Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse St-Emilion GC 90-91 Beau Soleil Pomerol 91

Belair-Monange St-Emilion GC 92 Belgrave Haut-Médoc 88 Bellefont Belcier St-Emilion GC 86-87 Bellegrave Pomerol 87 Bellevue Mondotte St-Emilion GC 95-96 Berliquet St-Emilion GC 89-90 Beychevelle St-Julien 91-93 Bonalgue Pomerol 87 Bon Pasteur Pomerol 92-93 Bourgneuf-Vayron Pomerol 92-93

Bouscaut Pessac-Léognan 90 Bouscaut white 89 Pessac-Léognan Branaire St-Julien 90-91 Brane-Cantenac Margaux 88 Broustet Sauternes & Barsac 90 La Cabanne Pomerol 85 Caillou Sauternes & Barsac 91-92 de Camensac Haut-Médoc 89 Canon St-Emilion GC 92-93 Canon-La-Gaffelière St-Emilion GC 90+? Cantemerle Haut-Médoc 90 Cantenac-Brown Margaux 92

Cap de Faugères Côtes de Castillon 90-91 Cap de Mourlin St-Emilion GC 90 Carbonnieux Pessac-Léognan 92 Carbonnieux white Pessac-Léognan 89 CarlMagnus Canon-Fronsac 87 Les Carmes Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 90 Carruades de Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 89-90 Castelot St-Emilion GC 86-87

Certan Marzelle Pomerol 89 Certan de May de Certan Pomerol 92-94 Chadenne Fronsac 88 Chantegrive Graves 91 Chantegrive white Graves 90 Chapelle d'Ausone St-Emilion GC 91-92 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 90-92 Chasse Spleen Moulis 90-91 Cheval Blanc St-Emilion GC 97-98 Citran Haut-Médoc 89

Le Clarence de Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 90-92 Clarke Listrac 88-89 La Clarte de Haut Brion Pessac -Léognan (white wine) 88 La Clémence Pomerol 91-92 Clerc Milon Pauillac 90-92 Climens Sauternes & Barsac 97-98 Clinet Pomerol 90+? Clos de Marquis St-Julien 93-94

Clos des Baies St-Emilion GC 90-91 Clos Dubreil St-Emilion GC 91 Clos du Clocher Pomerol 86 Clos Fourtet St-Emilion GC 94-95 Clos Haut Peyraguey Sauternes & Barsac 93-94 Clos l'Eglise Pomerol 93 Clos les Lunelles Côtes de Castillon 90-91 Clos Puy Arnaud Côtes de Castillon 88-89 La Confession St-Emilion GC 95-96 La Conseillante Pomerol 95-96

Le Conseiller Bordeaux Superieur 90 Corbin St-Emilion GC 90-91 Cos d'Estournel St-Estèphe 93-94 Cos Labory St-Estèphe 87 Cote Montpezat Cotes de Castillon 86 Coufran Haut-Médoc 89 La Couspaude St-Emilion GC 86 Coutet Sauternes & Barsac 90

La Croix Saint-Georges Pomerol 96-97 La Croix Pomerol 92 Croix de Beaucaillou 90-91 St-Julien La Croix de Gay Pomerol 88 Croix Mouton Bordeaux Superieur 90 Croizet-Bages Pauillac 91 Dalem Fronsac 88 La Dame de Montrose St-Estèphe 90 Dassault St-Emilion GC 90-91

de La Dauphine Fronsac 88 Dauzac Margaux 94 Desmirail Margaux 87 Doisy Daene Sauternes & Barsac 92p Doisy Vedrines Sauternes & Barsac 92 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan 94 Domaine de Chevalier blanc Pessac-Léognan 95 Domaine de L'Eglise Pomerol 89

La Dominique St-Emilion GC 94-95p Ducru Beaucaillou St-Julien 95-96 Duhart-Milon-Rothschild Pauillac 89-91 Duo de Conseillante Pomerol 89 Durfort Vivens Margaux 87 L'Extravagant de Doisy Daene Sauternes & Barsac 96-97 de Fargues Sauternes & Barsac 96 Ferrande Pessac-Léognan 90 Ferrande white Pessac-Léognan 91 Ferrand Lartigue St-Emilion GC 87

Ferrière Margaux 93 Feytit-Clinet Pomerol 88 de Fieuzal Pessac-Léognan 90 de Fieuzal white Pessac-Léognan 90-91 Figeac St-Emilion GC 93 Filhot Sauternes & Barsac 92 Fleur Cardinale St-Emilion GC 91 La Fleur de Gay Pomerol 90 La Fleur Petrus Pomerol 92 de Fonbel St-Emilion GC 90-91

Fonreaud Listrac 86 Fontenil Fronsac 90 Les Forts de Latour Pauillac 90-92 Fougas Maldoror Côtes de Bourg 89-90 Fourcas Borie Listrac 88 Fourcas Dupre Listrac 87 Fourcas Hosten Listrac 89 Franc-Mayne St-Emilion GC 90-92 de France Pessac-Léognan 90 de France white Pessac-Léognan 90-91

G Bordeaux Superieur 89 du Gaby Fronsac 90 La Gaffelière St-Emilion GC 93 Le Gay Pomerol 96-97 Gazin Pomerol 90+? Giscours Margaux 95 Gouleé Medoc 87 Grand Mayne St-Emilion GC 87-90 Grand Ormeau Lalande de Pomerol 87 Grand-Puy-Ducasse Pauillac 90 Grand Village Bordeaux Superieur 88 La Grave Pomerol 88 La Graviere Lalande de Pomerol 90-91 Greysac Médoc 91 Gruaud-Larose St-Julien 91-93

Guiraud Sauternes & Barsac 93-94Haut Bages Liberal Pauillac 91-92 Haut-Bailly Pessac-Léognan 91 Haut Ballet Canon-Fronsac 87 Haut-Bergey Pessac-Léognan 88-90? Haut-Bergey white Pessac-Léognan 93 Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 98-100 Haut-Brion blanc Pessac-Léognan 95 Haut Carles Fronsac 89-90 Haut Sarpe St-Emilion GC 88-89

Haut Simard St-Emilion GC 88 Hosanna Pomerol 93 Jean de Gue Lalande de Pomerol 86 Joanin-Bécot Côtes de Castillon 90-91 Les Justices Sauternes & Barsac 92 Kirwan Margaux 93 Labégorce Margaux 93 Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 96-98 Lafleur Pomerol 97-100 Laleur Gazin Pomerol 87 Lafon-Rochet St-Estèphe 90 Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes & Barsac 90-91

Lagrange St-Julien 88 Lamarque Haut-Médoc 86 Lalande Borie St-Julien 89 Lamothe Sauternes & Barsac 90 Lamothe Guignard Sauternes & Barsac 89 Langoa-Barton St-Julien 89 Larcis-Ducasse St-Emilion GC 88+? Larmande St-Emilion GC 86+? Larrivet-Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 86 Larrivet-Haut-Brion blanc Pessac-Léognan 91 Lascombes Margaux 92 Latour Pauillac 98-100

Lasseque St-Emilion 90-91 Latour-a-Pomerol Pomerol 92 Latour-Martillac Pessac-Léognan 90 Latour-Martillac white Pessac-Léognan 93-94 Léoville-Barton St-Julien 90-92 Leoville Las Cases St-Julien 96-97 Léoville-Poyferré St-Julien 90-92 Lespault Martillac Pessac-Léognan 86 La Louvière Pessac-Léognan 91

La Louvière white Pessac-Léognan 93 Lynch Bages Pauillac 90-92 Lynch-Moussas Pauillac 89-90 Magdelaine St-Emilion GC 92 Malartic-Lagravière Pessac-Léognan 92 Malartic-Lagravière white Pessac-Léognan 89 Malescasse Haut-Médoc 89 Malescot-Saint-Exupéry Margaux 95-96 de Malle Sauternes & Barsac 94-95 Manoir de Gay Pomerol 88 Margaux Margaux 98-99 Marquis de Terme Margaux 94

Maucaillou Moulis 92 La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 96-97 La Mission Haut Brion blanc Pessac-Léognan 93-94 Monbousquet St-Emilion GC 92-94 Monbousquet white Bordeaux 91-92 Monbrison Margaux 93 Montrose St-Estèphe 95-96 Montviel Pomerol 90 Moulin Haut-Laroque Fronsac 89 Moulin Pey-Labrie Canon-Fronsac 92

Moulin Saint-Georges St-Emilion GC 91-93 Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 97-99 Myrat Sauternes & Barsac 93 Nairac Sauternes & Barsac 95 Nenin Pomerol 90 Olivier Pessac-Léognan 91 Olivier blanc Pessac-Léognan 92 Les Ormes de Pez St-Estèphe 88 Pagodes de Cos St-Estephe 87-88 Palmer Margaux 96-97 Pape Clément Pessac-Léognan 91-92

Pape Clément blanc Pessac-Léognan 94-95 Pavie St-Emilion GC 97-98 Pavie-Decesse St-Emilion GC 96-97 Pavie-Macquin St-Emilion GC 94-95 Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux Margaux 90-92 Pauillac de Latour 88 Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux Bordeaux 93 Pensées de Lafleur Pomerol 90-92 Perron La Fleur Lalande de Pomerol 88-89 Le Petit Cheval St-Emilion GC 90-91 Le Petit Lion de Leoville Lascases St-Julien 89-90

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton-Rothschild Pauillac 90 Petit Village Pomerol 85 Petrus Pomerol 98-100 Phélan-Ségur St-Estèphe 90 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande Pauillac 92-93 Picque Caillou Pessac-Léognan 90-91 Picque Caillou blanc Pessac-Léognan 91 de Pez St-Estèphe 90

Le Pin Pomerol 97-98 Plince Pomerol 87 La Pointe Pomerol 88 Pontet-Canet Pauillac 96-97 Potensac Medoc 89 Poujeaux Moulis 91-92 De Pressac St-Emilion GC 86-87 Prieure Lichine Margaux 93 Rabaud Promis Sauternes & Barsac 92-93 Rahoul Pessac-Léognan 91 Rahoul Pessac-Léognan blanc 90 Rauzan-Gassies Margaux 92

Rauzan-Ségla Margaux 92-93 Raymond Lafon Sauternes & Barsac 96-98 Rayne Vigneau Sauternes & Barsac 90-91 Respide Medeville red Graves 90 Rieussec Sauternes & Barsac 93-94 de La Riviere Fronsac 88 Roc de Cambes Côtes de Bourg 92-93 Rol Valentin St-Emilion GC 93-94

Romer du Hayot Sauternes & Barsac 91 Rouget Pomerol 90 Saint-Pierre St-Julien 87 La Sergue Lalande de Pomerol 89 Siaurac Lalande de Pomerol 89 Sigalas Rabaud Sauternes & Barsac 93 Simard St-Emilion GC 90-91 Siran Margaux 91 Smith Haut Lafitte Pessac-Léognan 92 Smith Haut Lafitte white Pessac-Léognan 91

Suau Sauternes & Barsac 91 Suduiraut Sauternes & Barsac 94 Talbot St-Julien 88+ du Tertre Margaux 93-94 Tertre-Roteboeuf St-Emilion GC 95+? La Tour du By Medoc 90 90 La Tour Figeac St-Emilion GC 87-88 La Tour du Pin St-Emilion GC 90 La Tour-Carnet Haut-Médoc 90 Tournefeuille Lalande de Pomerol 87

Les Trois Croix Fronsac 91 Tronquoy-Lalande St-Estèphe 90 Troplong-Mondot St-Emilion GC 93-94 Trotanoy Pomerol 95? Trottevieille St-Emilion GC 91 La Tour Blanche Sauternes & Barsac 94-95 Veyry Côtes de Castillon 90-91 La Vieille Cure Fronsac 89-90 Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 95

de Viaud Lalande de Pomerol 88-89 Villars Fronsac 90-91 Vingt Mille Bordeaux Superieur 90-91 La Violette Pomerol 95 d'Yquem Sauternes & Barsac 98-100

SAUTERNES & BARSAC

d'Yquem was unctuous on nose and palate with incredible sweetness and acidity, eminent structure and breathtaking length. Layers and layers of deeply concentrated pear and apricot flavors. Incredible stuff! 98-100p.

Climens offered fantastic botrytis flavours (orange peel, acacia honey, pear and pineapple), ranging from delicate ones to concentrated ones, fabulous sweetness and acidity, richness and breathtaking purity and sophisticated touch. Incredible stuff as well. 97-98p. Tasted on two different occasions from many different barrels and blends.

Raymond Lafon made an astonishing wine in 2009 – very spectacular on the nose and palate with great range of botrytised flavours like pineapple, pear, apricot and acacia flower, exquisite sweetness and acidity. Extremely long on the palate with exquisite honeyed aftertaste. Fabulous stuff. 96-98p.

L'Extravagant de Doisy Daëne contained 220 g residual sugar. 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc. Extremely concentrated flavours, acidity and length. Big, towering wine which hits hard. 96-97p.

De Fargues was very close to Raymond Lafon with same great intensity of beautifully botrytised flavours, wonderful balance and sophisticated touch. 96p.

Nairac offereda big range of botrytised flavours with grapefruit, pineapple and pear. Distinguished and long on the palate with graceful aftertaste. Very precise and thoughtful winemaking. Exquisite effort. 95p.

De Malle came up with a wonderfully crafted wine with very flowery (acacia and heather) nose, offering wide range of orange peel and pineapple. Powerful and intense on the palate, long honeyed aftertaste. Great style and great winemaking. 94-95p. La Tour Blanche followed in same track as de Malle. Sheer class! 94-95p.

Suduiraut showed big backbone, big concentration, splendid acidity and corresponding fruit with flavours of mango and apricot. Extremely well-made wine. 94p.

Clos Haut Peyraguey and Guiraud resembled de Malle and La Tour Blanche a lot with slightly less intensity and length.Very well-made wines with a great deal of charisma. 93-94p. Rieussec followed in same track as the aforementioned trio, but with larger shoulders, bigger body and less elegant. 93-94p.

De Myrat and Sigalas Rabaud impressed with catching fruity nose, delightful sweetness and acidity on the palate, great balance, loads of grapefruit and dried apricots on the nose. Persistent and smooth finish. 93p.

Rabaud Promis made almost as impressive wine as Sigalas Rabaud. Splendid stuff. 92-93p.

Doisy Daëne, Doisy Vedrines and Filhot were quite intense on the nose with botrytised aromas of grapefruit, peach and pear, showed splendid depth, balance and length. 92p. Les Justices was as impressive. Very tasty stuff. 92p.

Caillou showed pretty nice bunch of botrytised flavours like lemon-grass, grapefruit, pine-apple and orange peel. Powerful, long and hoyened aftertaste, splendid acidity and long honeyed finish. Terrific effort. 91-92p.

Bastor Lamontagne, Romer du Hayot and Suau followed closely after with as pretty offering as Caillou, but less intense and long. 91p.

Lafaurie Peyraguey was somewhat closed and showed only some moments of its fine quality. I hope it will improve when in bottle. 90-91p. Rayne Vigneau showed elegant touch with fine flavours, acidity and smooth aftertaste. 90-91p.

D'Arche, Broustet, Coutet and Lamothe gave very fine performance with pretty fine intensity of flavours, fine interplay between acidity and fruit. Well-made wines. 90p.

Lamothe Guignard showed pretty much as tastefully as aforementioned quartet. 89p.

PÉSSAC-LÉOGNAN

Red wines:

Haut Brion was a curiosity because only 2% was declassified – grapes were of fantastic quality. Incredibly aromatic black fruit, strong, lots of dark cheries on nose and palate, very deep and dense, very long, mineral, velvety and with astonishing balance. Mind-boggling effort. 98-100p.

La Mission Haut Brion offered incredibly aromatic, sensual and sophisticated nose with black cherries, coated tongue with black fruit, velvety all over, layers and layers of silky fruit and fat ripe tannin, extremely elegant and sophisticated, fabulous balance. Exceptional wine. My memory tells me that the nose here is of 2000 LMHB and palate of 2005. 96-97p.

Domaine de Chevalier had intense and aromatic on the nose with black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid depth and length, smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 94p.

Carbonnieux, Malartic La Graviere and Smith Haut Lafitte had intense nose with oak and black fruit, splendid depth and length, strong structure, meaty texture and smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 92p.

Pape Clement did taste more oaky than aforementioned trio and was slightly drier on the palate, but otherwise performed just fine. 91-92p.

Chantegrive, Haut Bailly, La Louviere, Olivier and Rahoul offered splendid nose of ripe cherries and blackcurrants with depth and intensity. Powerful on the palate with strong structure, fine length and long aftertaste. Fine style here. 91p.

La Chapelle de La Mission Haut Brion and Le Clarence de Haut Brion were both very aromatic (black cherries), gentle and with silky tannins. Great length and aftertaste for second wine. 90-92p.

Picque Caillouwas strong and fleshy, packed with blackcurrants and cherries, with fine depth and structure, ripe fruit and ripe tannins. Terrific effort. 90-91p.

Bouscaut, Les Carmes Haut Brion, Respide Medeville and La Tour Martillac made oaky and meaty wines and had enough of ripe, aromatic and fresh red-/blackcurrants to balance tannins. Clearly fine efforts for the vintage. 90p.

Ferrande, de Fieuzal and de France presented softer and rounder version than aforementioned trio, but were equally fine. 90p.

OK wines: Haut Bergey(87p) and Larrivet Haut Brion (86p).

Dry white wines:

Haut Brion blanc had intense aromas of pear, pineapple and acacia flower, was formidably knitted together, impeccable balance and long, and caressingly soft aftertaste. Seemed less concentrated than 2008. Great quality. 95p.

Domaine de Chevalier was very accessible, incredibly aromatic with lemon and pineapple, elegant, incredibly attractive, tasty and smooth, caressing aftertaste. This was stupendous showing. 95p.

Pape Clement followed in Domaine de Chevalier's tracks with equally impressive wine, although more oaky and modern. 94-95p.

La Mission Haut Brion blanc offered great intensity of lemon, mango and apricot flavours supported by great acidity and balance. Elegant version of 2008. Simply terrific wine. 93-94p.

La Tour Martillac did the unbelieveable thing and performed as impressive as La Mission Haut Brion blanc. A great surprise. 93-94p.

Haut Bergey and La Louviere were intense and rich on the nose with pineapple and lemon grass, had great acidity n the palate with supporting fruit. Very stylish wines with finesse and elegance. Stunning efforts. Well-deserved 93p.

Olivier did everything right and came up with great effort, not unlike Haut Bergey and La Louviere. Less intense. 92p.

Ferrande, Larrivet Haut Brion, Picque Caillou and Smith Haut Lafitte showed fine, ripe fruit, fine aromas of acacia flower, pear and pineapple, fine concentration on the palate, balance and smooth aftertaste. Seductive wines. 91p.

De Fieuzal and de France offered fine acidity, intensity and structure. Nicely put together and fine balance. Apple, pineapple and pear. Very fine effort. 90-91p.

Chantegrive and Rahoul were aromatic, charming, with nice acidity, a bit light on the palate. Smooth and round finish. Nice wines. 90p.

Bouscaut, Carbonnieux and Malartic Lagraviere brought dense, well-knitted wines with fine acidity and strong finish. 89p.

La Clarte de Haut Brion (blend of grapes not good enough for Haut Brion blanc and La Mission Haut Brion blanc) offered fresh and aromatic apple, grapefruit and lemon peel aromas, attractive, round and smooth approach. Tasty and very enjoyable. 88p.

MÉDOC

Greysac was a great surprise, really. This underperformer made probably the best wine in its history. Impressive nose of black fruit, really deep and aromatic. Sappy and chewy on the palate, full-bodied, quite concentrated, persistent fruity aftertaste. Bravo! 91p.

La Tour de By did also stunningly in 2009. Same style as Greysac but less aromatic and less concentrated. 90p.

Potensac was concentrated with fine structure and length, fine balance and lingering aftertaste. Fine quality. 89p.

OK wine: Goulée. 87p

HAUT-MÉDOC

Cantemerle and La Tour Carnet impressed a lot. Both were very aromatic (ripe dark berries) on the nose, seductive and charming, intense, delightfully balanced. Terrific length and gracious aftertaste. Splendid effort for the vintage. 90p.

Camensac, Citran, Coufran and Malescasse offered fine cherry nose, elegance, very nice structure and charm. Sappy with nice concentration on the palate. Fine smooth aftertaste. 89p.

Beaumont and Belgrave had ripe cherry fruit on the nose, were attractive and charming, nice structure on the palate, well-balanced and smooth aftertaste. Nice effort for the vintage. 88p.

OK wines: Lamarque. 86p

LISTRAC

Fourcas Hosten surprised with its performance – earthy and spicy, sappy and strong backbone, well-balanced, tasty and fine aftertaste. You really taste terroir here. Splendid quality. 89p.

Clarke offered very nice nose of red berries and was round, soft and seductive. Also very nice on the palate with tasty cherry fruit. A crowd pleaser. 88-89p.

Fourcas Borie was earthy, strong with nice structure, depth and firm aftertaste. 88p.

OK wines: Fourcas Dupre (87p)and Fonreaud (86p).

MOULIS

Maucaillou offered excellent nose of black fruit with depth and intensity. Sappy and chewy on the palate, full-bodied and with persistent fruity aftertaste. Probably the best effort ever from this property. Kudos! 92p

Poujeaux went in same footsteps as Macauillou but was a bit downscaled version of it. Nevertheless a terrific effort here! 91-92p.

Chasse Spleen followed closely after Macauillou and Poujeaux with slightly more tannic approach and firm finish. 90-91p.

MARGAUX

Margaux is in this vintage epitome of elegance and sophisticated touch. You simply have to adore the graciosity, style and silk covering fruit and tannin in this wine, rounded off with exquisite balance. Angelic treat. 98-99p.

Palmer had very seductive aroma of dark cherries, great intensity and concentration, silky tannins and graceful finish. Very stylish and sophisticated wine with extreme elegance and power. Excellent quality. 96-97p.

Malescot St.Euxpery was very pretty wine with deep, aromatic nose, complex, elegant and with lot of finesse. Splendidly balanced, coating on the palate and with long aftertaste. Powerful and gentle at the same time. Stupendous effort. 95-96p.

Giscours offered fabulously scented nose of black cherries and blueberries, which was deep and sophisticated. Covered every inch of the palate with velvety black fruit and velvety tannin. Long and caressing aftertaste. Excellent work in the cellar. 95p.

Dauzac tastes tremendously well from barrel in excellent vintages and 2009 isn't a fluke. Like Giscours, it was fabulously scented on the nose and coating with high quality fruit on the palate. If this property chooses to filtrate 2009 prior to bottling, it will be a great mistake, because this wine is a beautiful expression of Margaux terroir. 94p.

Marquis de Terme did as beautifully as Dauzac, but I fear filtration here too, because 2005 was as beautiful from barrel but tasted barely that exciting when in bottle. 94p.

Du Tertre wasn't that far quality-like from its sister property Giscours. Slightly lighter and less concentrated but equally seductive. 93-94p.

Ferriere, Kirwan and Labegorce did a fabulous job in 2009 and much better than in 2008. Powerful wines with very aromatic ripe dark cherries, velvety tannin, well-knitted, harmonious and with long lingering aftertaste. 93p.

Monbrison and Prieure Lichine were pretty wines too, aromatic, seductive, elegant, well-balanced, subtle and with velvety finish. Heartbreakers. 93p.

D'Angludet, Cantenac Brown, Lascombes and Rauzan Gassies were tight and intense with dense structure, fine concentration of dark fruit, fat tannin, harmonious and with firm finish. All four wines impressed a lot and fully deserved 92p. What a big difference in performasncecompared with 2008 vintage!

Rauzan Segla performed as well as the aforementioned quartet but with modern style = extracted flavours. This extraction did hovever not affected the balance in this wine. 92p.

Siran followed in Rauzan Segla tracks, however with less concentration of flavours. 91p.

Pavillon Rouge impressed with silky fruit and tannin, subtle touch, finesse and elegance, and great balance. Stupendous second wine. 90-92p.

Alter Ego was subtle, elegant, with ripe berries and ripe tannin, round and smooth on the aftertaste. 90-91p.

Brane Cantenac offered silky dark fruit, elegance, nice concentration, charm and fine balance. Tasted a bit too light to really impress 88p.

Desmirail and Durfort Vivens, were all delicate and round wines, but on the light side and a tad too short on the palate. 87p.

SAINT-JULIEN

Leoville Lascases was black red, very strong, powerful and tight, velvety tannins and very long aftertaste. Big quantities of ripe cherries perfectly matched by perfectly ripe tannin. A wolf in sheep clothes. Awesome effort. 96-97p.

Ducru Beaucaillou had ripe intense fruit on the nose, great depth and classy "look". Aromatic, full-bodied and with strong structure. Fat on the palate. Splendid balance between ripe black fruit and corresponding smooth tannins. Long aftertaste. Excellent effort fot the vintage. 95-96p.

Clos de Marquis came up with excellent effort and tasted like a partly downscaled version of his big "brother" Leoville Lascases. If the opening primeur price is right, it could be a real steal for the money. 93-94p.

Beychevelle was pretty aromatic, elegant and subtle wine, full-bodied. Splendid aftertaste with lot of flavours. Graceful and stylish. 91-93p. Tasted twice – inconsistent TNs. Gruaud Larose followed in tracks of Beychevelle. 91-93p. Tasted twice with consistent TNs.

Leoville Barton and Leoville Poyferre did very nice job in 2009, but both were rather pale in appearance compared to superior showing in 2005 vintage. Aromatic, ripe, fine concentration, depth and finish. I was not overly impressed but hope for drastic improvement when in bottle. 90-92p for both.

Branaire was a tad too light for my taste, despite pretty showing with intense and aromatic black berries, a good bite on the palate with nice fruit, smooth and nice aftertaste. 90-91p.

Croix de Beaucaillou did pretty well for a second wine with strong and aromatic performance. Round and sappy on the palate with smooth aftertaste. 90-91p.

Le Petit Lion de Leoville Lascases followed in Croix de Beaucaillou tracks, but with that smooth texture as. 89-90p.

Lalande Borie and Langoa Barton tasted earthy and a bit vegetal, however there was nice fruit intensity, structure and length. 89p.

Talbot was intense on the nose with black berries, a good grip on the palate with nice fruit, round and nice aftertaste. Very nice wine. 88+p.

Lagrange did appear at same quality level as Talbot. 88p.

Saint Pierre did it on the light side with a lot of charm and finesse. Feminine wine, which will offer a lot pleasure. 87p.

PAUILLAC

Latour was multidimensional in every "corner", silky in fruit and tannins with exquisite balance. Incredibly complex, awesome depth, exquisite richness, balance and length. A legend. 98-100p.

Mouton Rothschild presented itself as sublime all the way, sophisticated. Almost as stunning as Latour. 97-99p.

Lafite offered great intensity of aromas and flavors, silky tannins, robust structure, excellent balance and depth. For me, it lacked a bit of excitement found in 2005. Anyway, it surely is among the best wines of the vintage. 96-98p.

Pontet Canet was a real stuff! Extremely aromatic and intense with black sweet cherries, strong structure, excellent balance and stunning length. Sophisticated and nuanced. Awesome effort! 96-97p.

Pichon Comtesse had elegant, silky fruit, sappy and fleshy, very nice length and aftertaste. Charming and aromatic on the nose. Splendid effort. 92-93p.

Haut Bages Liberal was seductively aromatic, elegant and subtle wine, full-bodied. Smooth and persstent aftertaste with lot of flavours. A lot of style and terroir here. 91-92p.

D'Armailhac, Clerc Milon, Les Forts de Latour and Lynch Bages offered aromatic intensity, chocolaty flavours, ripe berries, fine concentration, depth and finish. Pretty wines indeed and very seductive, but in case of Lynch Bages I expected much more. 90-92p.

Croizet Bages was very charming on the nose with sweet ripe fruit, deep and intense, a lot of goodies on the palate, silky and gracious finish. Nice to see this underperformer property do so well in 2009. 90-91p.

Batailley, Grand Puy Ducasse and Le Petit Mouton brought plenty of ripe fruit, round, perfumed and seductive approach. Substantial concentration of fruit, well-knitted on the palate and firm aftertaste. Very fine wines indeed. 90p.

Duhart Milon was tannic and not willing to "speak", but it gave promise of rounder and more charming shape later on. 89-91p.

Lynch Moussas showed nice intensity and concentration of dark fruit, tight and fine structure. Very nice balance and firm finish. Approved effort. 89-90p.

Carruaders de Lafite offered strong, well-knitted wine with nice grip on the palate, nice concentration of red-/blackcurrants and fine aftertaste. 89-90p.

Pauillac de Chateau Latour offered good concentration, good grip, nice balance and smooth aftertaste. Not bad at all for 3rd wine. 88p.

SAINT-ÉSTEPHE

Montrose had plenty of silky fruit and tannin, strong backbone, great depth and length, splendid balance and firm aftertaste. Very aromatic wine with great personality. Fabulous effort for the vintage. 95-96p.

Cos d'Estournel was very pretty wine technically, very intense on the nose, started extremely well, then dropped unexpectedly out with hollow midpalate. Fine lingering aftertaste though. The question is if this wine is true St.Estephe wine or just well-made modern wine with big muscles. 93-94p.

Dame de Montrose was impressive for a second wine to be. Very round tasty dark fruit, smooth, silky and elegant. 90p. De Pez and Tronquoy Lalande had the same nice qualities as Dame de Montrose. 90p for both.

Lafon Rochet and Phelan Segur offered more modern style with more extracted flavours than preceeding wines, but other ingredients were just fine. Both wines scored 90p.

Les Ormes de Pez offered sweet, silky fruit, very nice intensity, length and structure, nice depth and balance. 88p.

Cos Labory (87p) and Pagodes de Cos (87-88p) offered sappy, nice dark fruit, nice intensity and structure, round and charming attitude.

SAINT-ÉMILION

Ausone had plenty of dark fruit /blackberries/blueberries), silky tannins, was sensual, fleshy, very sophisticated, mega long on the palate and with perfect balance. Simply extraordinary stuff. 97-99p.

Pavie was strong and sappy like a bear with impeccable depth, balance and aftertaste. Lots of ripe fruit and ripe tannin backed up by strong backbone and excellent structure. Sublime and sophisticated. Modern style but who really cares. This is heavenly stuff! 97-98p. Tasted twice – consistent notes.

Cheval Blanc hit the roof in 2009. Thick, fat, extraordinary well-knitted, with plenty of perfectly ripe fruit, silky ripe tannins, pure elegance, finesse and sophisticated touch, all combined with excellent balance and long smooth finish. Simply exceptional. 97-98p.

Pavie Decesse was a blockbuster with immense fruit quality on the palate, strong backbone, plenty of sweet ripe berries expertly supported by new oak, great length and depth, exquisite balance and immense aftertaste. Incredible stuff. 96-97p..

Bellevue Mondotte followed in Pavie Decesse's tracks med a tad more restrained version. Awesome quality indeed! 95-96p. had very strong backbone, concentration, fatness, opulence, depth and length on the palate.

La Confession had awesome balance and long firm aftertaste. Another hit from highly talented Jean-Philippe Janoueix. 95-96p.

Tertre Roteboeuf did just finished malolactic one week before my visit and tasting. It was difficult to taste and my rating may seem too kind. But the quality here has always been high and this property has long track of making sensationally stabile wines, so I honour it with 95+p and hope to retast it very soon.

Beau-Séjour Becot, Clos Fourtet and Pavie Macquin had strong backbone and intensity, plenty of sweet wild cherries with excellent support of oak, great length and depth, terrific balance and pretty long aftertaste. Stunning wines. 94-95p. Tasted twice – consistent notes.

La Dominique made a sensational effort in 2009 – as impressive as aforementioned trio. 94-95p.

Troplong Mondot was very concentrated, velvety, wonderfully balanced and with great length. Simply excellent. 93-94p. Tasted twice with consistent notes.

Rol Valentin performed exceptionally well and reminded a lot of Troplong Mondot. 93-94p.

La Gaffeliere impressed with great intensity of aromatic cherry fruit, depth, big "clothes"and strongly structured on the palate, and with perfect balance. Strong effort for the vintage. 93p.

Figeac did the same trick – it's not that often it tastes so well when young. 93p. Both wines were tasted twice with consistent notes.

Monbousquet had beautiful nose of cherries, attractive and seductive approach, extracted flavours which didn't interfere with overall look of this wine, fine structure and long firm aftertaste. Modern style all right but quality is splendid. 92-94p.

Canon and Angelus offered chewy stuff in modern style, lot of ripe fruit and tannin in splendid harmony and firm finish. Terrific stuff. 92-93p.

Belair-Monange and Magdelaine. Same impressive stuff as in Canon. 92p.

Moulin St.Georges had great nose and palate full of ripe black berries and wild cherries, terrific depth, structure and length. Stupendous wine. 91-93p.

Barde Haut and Chapelle d'Ausone were pretty wines, seductive, splendidly balanced, elegant and with smooth caressing aftertaste. Terrific ones. 91-92p.

Clos Dubreil, Fleur Cardinale and Trottevieille were fine, seductive and aromatic on the nose with great intensity and depth. Ripe fruit well supported by ripe tannins. Quite long aftertaste. 91p.

Franc Mayne did as well as aforementioned trio. 90-92p.

Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse, Clos des Baies, Corbin, Dassault, de Fonbel, Lasseque, Le Petit Cheval and Simard were meaty and fleshy wines with significant aroma of black cherries, splendidly balanced and well-structured. Smooth aftertaste. Well-deserved 90-91p for all these wines.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere expressed oak, strong backbone, a bit edgy tannins and not quite balanced look. Hopefully it gets gentle with time. 90+p?

Cap de Mourlin and La Tour du Pin showed sweet fruit, roundness, elegance and splendid structure. 90p.

Berliquet presented well-made wine with splendid ripe fruit and splendid balance. 89-90p.

Haut Sarpe followed well in Berliquet's tracks. 88-89p.

Larcis Ducasse was oaky and uninspired. 88+?p.

Haut Simard had nice silky fruit and tannins, round, lovely structure and balance. 88p.

OK wines: Bellefont Belcier (86-87p), Castelot (86-87p), Ferrand Lartique (87p), La Couspade (86p), Grand Mayne (87p), Larmande (86+?p) and de Pressac (86-87p).

Difficult to understand: Balestard La Tonnelle (85p).

POMEROL

Lafleur was strong, multidimensional, lots of black cherries, opulent, ripe and silky tannins, exquisite balance and sophisticated touch, richness and extremely long aftertaste, which was longest of all 2009s I've tasted. Heavenly stuff. 98-100p.

Petrus brought great intensity, depth and sophisticated nose of black cherries. Velvety and very concentrated on the palate with enormous depth and richness. Probably the most accessible wine at "baby" stage from this property, I've ever tasted. A future legend. 98-100p.

Le Pin showed very fresh, meaty and silky texture, great intensity and concentration, sophisticated touch and stunning length. Incredibly exciting wine. 97-98p.

La Croix St.Georges was broad-shouldered, massive, lot of black cherries, fat ripe tannin, excellent structure, great depth and long firm aftertaste. Amazing effort. 96-97p.

Le Gay offered lots of black fruit and violets, strong structure with great length and long aftertaste, sophisticated, long and velvety. Very classy wine which was made intelligently, thoughtfully and precisely. 96-97p.

La Conseillante made from 81% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Francappeared velvety and aromatic all over, pure elegance and sophisticated touch so typical for this property, strong bones and terrific structure, long and graceful finish. Pure delight. 95-96p.

VCC had black cherries in silky package, almost cashmere texture, and was smooth on the palate. Being almost 100% Merlot it tasted a bit too easy and uncomplicated for my liking, and my rating may be too flattering for this wine. But I expect it to become stronger after stay in barrel. 95p.

La Violette was made from 100% Merlot. Blueberries and blackberries, clear aroma of truffles (crasse de fer - iron dirt), deep and very long on the palate with silky aftertaste. Great treat. 95p.

Trotanoy had unusually for Pomerol peppery aromas, but otherwise it was massive, strong and robust. There's great potential in this wine if winemaker got it all right. Hope the much better showing when in bottle. 95?p.

Clos L'Eglise offered chewy stuff in modern style, lot of ripe fruit and tannin in splendid harmony and firm finish. Terrific wine for the vintage. 93p.

Hosanna was oaky and massive with strong structure and great length. Lots of dark berry fruit with slightly alcoholic touch. Impressive. 93p.Hosanna was oaky and massive with strong structure and great length. Lots of dark berry fruit with slightly alcoholic touch. Impressive. 93p.

Certan de May was silky, intense, with strong structure and great length. Very fine balance and ripe tannin. 92-94p.

Bon Pasteur was full-bodied with strong backbone, meaty, ripe fruit and tannin everywhere, splendid balance, structure and firm finish. 92-93p.

Bourgneuf Vayron appeared strong, chewy, ripe and with fine tannins. Dark cherries, long and strongly structured. Softer than usual and with persistent aftertaste. Frederique Vayron has been making wine together with her father since 2008 vintage and her influence can be tasted in 2009. Terrific effort for the vintage. 92-93p.

La Croix was for the first time made in 2009 vintage by Jean-Philippe Janoueix of La Croix St.Georges fame and the quality of La Croix is significantly better now than before. Very intense and concentrated with plenty of wild cherries and blackberries, attractive and seductive, powerful on the palate with firm aftertaste. A sleeper. 92p.

La Fleur Petrus and Latour-á-Pomerol were strong, chewy, ripe and with fine tannins. Dark cherries, long and well structured on the palate. 92p.

La Clemence reminded a lot of La Croix. Terrific quality. 91-92p.

Beau Soleil impressed with very aromatic and intense nose of dark cherries, splendid structure, fine length and gracious aftertaste. Memorable effort for this property. 91p.

Pensées de Lafleur was fresh, meaty with strong backbone, powerful and firm finish. Well-knitted. Terrific second wine. 90-92p.

Clinet and Gazin appeared quite tannic and edgy, and seemed a bid disoriented. Hopefully, both wines with time will soften and get better balance. 90+?p.

La Fleur de Gay, Nenin and Rouget offered fine aromas of black cherries on the nose but tannin was a kind of dominating on the palate. However I'm pretty sure, that both these wines will get harmonious and attractive after some stay in barrels. 90p.

Montviel showed very well for its status. Earthy with substance. Very intense on the nose, tight, aromatic, dark berries, nice velvety finish. Oak very well integrated. 90p.

Certan Marzelle and Domaine de L'Eglise did same appearance as Montviel but perhaps with less intensity of aromas. 89p.

Duo de Conseillante and Manoir de Gay performed with aplomb for a second wine with cherry aromas, fine structure and fine finish. 88p.

La Croix de Gay, Feytit Clinet, La Grave and La Pointe were also as attractive and tasty. 88p.

Bellegrave, Bonalgue, Lafleur Gazin and Plince were nicely made wines with tasty fruit, roundness and soft finish. 87p.

OK wine: Clos du Clocher 86p.

Quite difficult to understand: Beauregard (85p), La Cabanne (85p) and Petit Village (85p).

BORDEAUX/BORDEAUX SUPERIEUR/PREMIÈRES CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

20 Mille made by very talented winemaker Jean-Philippe Janouiex (La Confession) is 100% Merlot wine. Meaty and concentrated wine, splendidly aromatic with fine tannins, splendid balance and long aftertaste. 90-91p.

La Croix Mouton and Le Conseillier from same winemaker as 20 Mille showed very well with strong backbone, fresh cherry flavors, were well-knitted, ripe tannins, fine length and lingering aftertaste. Intelligent winemaking. 89-90p.

G de Guinaudeau showed great aromatic intensity, fresh fruit and velvety texture. Blend of grapes from Bordeaux Superieur and Fronsac. Made by owners of Lafleur. 89p.

Grand Village offered very aromatic black fruit, roundness, charm and velvety texture. 88p.

Pavillon Blanc de Margaux was very impressive. Very intense flavors of acacia flower, apple tart, excellent acidity and minerality, freshness, very aromatic and accessible. 93p.

CÔTES DE BOURG

Roc de Cambes was very powerful, strong, very intense on the nose with blueberries and black cherries, with splendid balance and firm aftertaste containing ripe flavours. Stupendous effort in same class as 2005. 92-93p.

Fougas Maldoror – strong and fruity wine with nice stuffing, meaty and well-structured wine. 89-90p.

CÔTES DE CASTILLON

Veyry provided aromatic black cherries, tight structure, fine balance and pretty fine finish. Extremely seductive wine. 90-91p.

Cap de Faugeres (modern style with power and strong tannins) and Joanin Becot were as impressive as Veyry. 90-91p.

Clos les Lunelles impressed a lot with intensely perfumed and tasty dark berries, strong structure and firm aftertaste. Splendid. 90-91p.

Clos Puy Arnaud showed terrific fruit, very nice structure and long smooth aftertaste. Well-made wine. 88-89p.

Ampelia was nicely made wine with tasty fruit, roundness and soft finish 87p.

FRONSAC/CANON-FRONSAC

Moulin Pey Labrie turned out once again to be a big surprise and revelation. Beautifully scented aroma of black cherries. Great intensity, beautiful structure, length and formidable balance. Mouthfilling. Impressive stuff. 92p.

Barrabaque was excellently made with intensely aromatic nose, splendid balance, great purity of fruit and finesse. Extremely seductive wine. 92p.

Les Trois Croix had splendid intensity, structure and length. Plenty of ripe black berries. Very well-made. 91p.

Villars was splendidly structured and well-balanced, elegant and with finesse. Very catchy wine. 90-91p.

Fontenil was strong, chewy, well-balanced and with tasty dark cherry fruit. Modern style. 90p. Du Gaby showed more subtle and more elegant style than Fontenil. 90p. Terrific wines but different style.

Haut Carles and La Vieille Cure presented strong backbone, chewy and meaty texture, tasty dark cherry fruit well supported by strong tannin. 89-90p. Moulin Haut Laroque was a tad less concentrated and more oaky. 89p.

Chadenne, Dalem, La Dauphine and de La Riviere showed ripe black fruit, nice intensity, concentration and balance. Pretty wines. 88p.

Carl Magnus and Haut Ballet were nicely made wines with tasty fruit, roundness and soft finish. 87p.

LALANDE-DE-POMEROL

La Graviere had sweet and attractive nose of black cherries, fat texture, fine balance and long aftertaste. Very impressive wine for the district. 90-91p. Same owner as Le Gay and La Violette.

L'Ambroisie du Chateau La Croix des Moines brought large amounts of ripe, aromatic and tasty fruit, strong backbone, nice acidity and splendid balance. 89-90p.

La Sergue and Siaurac both offered deep aromatic nose, intense cherries, well-knitted composition and persistent aftertaste. 89p.

Perron La Fleur and de Viaud were quite powerful and well-structured, with nice ripe fruit and tannin. 88p.

de Chambrun, Grand Ormeau and Tournefeuille were nicely made wines with tasty fruit, roundness and soft finish. All rewarded with rating 87p.

Tasting of 30+ wines from 2009 vintage in Copenhagen on the 1st September 2010

D'Aiguilhe 2009 - fine earthy flavors, nice concentration, complexity and length. Nicely balanced. 89p.

Angelus 2009 - offered chewy stuff in modern style, lot of ripe fruit and tannin in splendid harmony and firm finish. Stronger, deeper and richer compared to being tasted 5 months ago.Terrific stuff. 93-94p.

D'Armailhac 2009 - presented aromatic intensity, chocolaty flavours, ripe berries, fine concentration, depth and finish. Pretty wine indeed and very seductive. 90-92p.

Beychevelle 2009 -was pretty aromatic, elegant and subtle wine, full-bodied. Splendid aftertaste with lot of flavours. Graceful and stylish. Has gained more concentration compared when tasted 5 months ago. 92-93p.

Branaire 2009 - was a tad too light for my taste, despite pretty showing with intense and aromatic black berries, a good bite on the palate with nice fruit, smooth and nice aftertaste, when tasted 5 months ago. Now, it's put on weight, gained more depth and length. 91p.

Canon La Gaffeliere 2009 - oaky with strong backbone, quite powerful, well-structured and with fine balance. Firm aftertaste. Has improved since April this year. 91-92p.

Cantemerle 2009 - tasted even better than 5 months ago. Fine aromas of ripe dark berries on the nose, seductive and charming, delightfully balanced. Terrific length and aftertaste. Splendid effort for the vintage. 91p.

Les Carmes Haut Brion 2009 - made oaky and meaty wine with enough of ripe, aromatic and fresh red-/blackcurrants to balance tannins. More intensity of flavors now than 5 months ago. 90-91p.

Chasse Spleen 2009 - offered splendid nose of black fruit with depth and intensity. Sappy and chewy on the palate, full-bodied and with firm aftertaste. Fine effort indeed. 90-91p.

La Clemence 2009 - very intense and concentrated with plenty of wild cherries and blackberries, tannic, powerful on the palate with firm aftertaste. Needs time to get softer. 91-92p.

Clerc Milon 2009 - enchanted with aromatic intensity, chocolaty flavours, ripe berries, fine concentration, depth and finish. Pretty wine indeed and very seductive. 90-92p.

Clos L'Oratoire 2009 - not that far from brother property, Canon-La-Gaffeliere. Same style, although Clos L'Oratoire possessed lees intensity and had weaker structure and shorter palate. 90p.

Destieux 2009 - Ididn't tasted it in April this year during primeur week but I've known its fine quality from earlier vintages. In 2009, it shows very fine lusciousness of fruit, intensity, depth, length and fine aftertaste. Meaty wine with fine balance. Splendid effort. 92p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2009 - had intense and aromatic on the nose with black cherries and blackcurrants, splendid depth and length, smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 94p.

Domaine de Chevalier white 2009 - extremely flowery nose with pineapple, citron , lemon and apples, refined, rich, excellent balance and thrillingly smooth aftertaste. Stunning beauty. 95p.

Ferriere 2009 - did a fabulous job in 2009 and much better than in 2008. Powerful wine with very aromatic ripe dark cherries, velvety tannin, well-knitted, harmonious and with long lingering aftertaste. Excellent. 93p.

Fiefs of Lagrange 2009 - lighter version of Lagrange. 87p.

Gazin 2009 - has soften since last time I tasted it (April 2010). Strong, chewy, ripe and with fine tannins. 91p.

Giscours 2009 - offered extremely aromatic nose of black cherries and blueberries, deep and sophisticated. Palate was filled up with velvety black fruit and velvety tannin. Long and caressing aftertaste. Excellent work in the cellar. A bit less flamboyant now than in April 2010. 93-95p.

Grand Puy Lacoste 2009 - strong, very flavored, plenty of blackcurrants, tight structure with fine depth and length. Classy and stylish wine. Keeps the tradition beautifully. 94-95p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2009 - was seductively aromatic, elegant and subtle wine, full-bodied. Smooth and persstent aftertaste with lot of flavours. A lot of style and terroir here. 91-92p.

Labegorce 2009 - as impressive as Ferriere. Powerful and rich. Makes the Margaux commune proud. 93p.

Lagrange 2009 - similar to Talbot. 88+p.

Latour Martillac 2009 - presented oaky and meaty wine and had enough of ripe, aromatic and fresh red-/blackcurrants to balance meaty tannins. Fine efforts for the vintage. 90-91p.

Leoville Poyferre 2009 - in April 2010 it was rather pale in appearance compared to superior showing in 2005 vintage. But it has improved considerably 5 months later, with strong backbone, powerful appearance, lot of stuffing, splendid length and depth. 92-94p.

Marquis d'Alesme 2009 - made by same owner as Labegorce and equally impressive. Enchanting sweetness of fruit. 93p.

Montrose 2009 - had plenty of silky fruit and tannin, strong backbone, great depth and length, splendid balance and firm aftertaste. Wine with great personality and fabulous effort for the vintage. A little bit modern style in 2009 than in recent vintages. 95p.

Phelan Segur 2009 - offered modern style with extracted flavours, considerable amount of tannin and ripe berries, nice backbone and firm finish. 90p.

Pontet Canet 2009 - was a real stuff! Extremely aromatic and intense with black sweet cherries, strong structure, excellent balance and stunning length. Sophisticated and nuanced. As impressive as in March 2010. Awesome effort! 96-97p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2009 - had intense nose with oak andblack fruit,splendid depth and length, strong structure, meaty texture and smooth aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. Performed even better than in April 2010. 92-93p.

Suduiraut 2009 - showed big backbone, big concentration, splendid acidity and corresponding fruit with flavours of mango and apricot. Extremely well-made wine. 94p.

Talbot 2009 - was intense on the nose with black berries, a good grip on the palate with nice fruit, round and nice aftertaste. Very nice wine. 88+p.

du Tertre 2009 - wasn't that far quality-like from its sister property Giscours. Slightly lighter and less concentrated but equally seductive. 93p.

Wines from 2009 vintage tasted at Le Gay in October 2010

La Graviere - had sweet and attractive nose of black cherries, freshness, fine balance and long aftertaste. Very impressive wine for the district (Lalande-de Pomerol). 90p.

Montviel - presented itself even better than in April this year with catchy aroma of black berries, adequate amont of tannin, balance and quite long finish. Splendid effort. 91p.

Le Gay - powerful, plenty of black cherries and violets, strong structure with great depth, structure and length, incredibly strong backbone and with extremely long aftertaste. Very classy wine with charisma and great style. 96-97p.

La Violette - very much violet aroma on the nose and even to find on the palate, clear aroma of truffles, deep and very long on the palate with persistent aftertaste. Great treat. 95-96p.

WINES FROM JEAN-LUC THUNEVIN

Domaine des Sabines (Lalande-de-Pomerol) - this was really enchanting wine with seductive and attractive nose of wild cherries, soft texture, fine balance, splendid depth and caressing aftertaste. Splendid effort. 91p.

Le Clos du Beau-Pere (Pomerol) - as impressive as Domaine des Sabines. Very enjoyable wine.

Virginie de Valandraud - lighter version of Valandraud with elegance and finesse instead of power and concentration. Murielle did a very fine job here! 92p.

Clos Badon (St.Émilion) - aromatic cherries, strong and chewy, tannin on palate was a bit dry (coming from oak and not from unripe grapes) and finish was firm with slight dryness too. Needs time to soften and get the dryness away. 89p.

Belevue de Tayac (Margaux) - closed, a bit rustic and dry, there's nice potential in this wine but it's difficult to assess at the moment. Also here we have to be patient. 88p

Valandraud - stunning intensity on the nose and palate, full load of black cherries and blackberries, massive, fabulous complexity, structure and length, stunning balance and long lasting finish. Fantastic wine. 97-98p

WINES FROM JULIE & XAVIER GONET-MEDEVILLE (GILETTE)

Cru Monplaisir (Bordeaux Superieur, situated close to Gironde, just outside Margaux appelation) - ripe fruit, terroir very present, well-balanced with fine bite and intensity on the palate. Very nice effort for the first vintage made by Medevilles. 87p.

Eyrins (Margaux) - splendid fruit maturity, very parfumed, velvety tannins, fine depth and balance. Very smooth finish. Very well-done for the first vintage made by Medevilles. 88-89p.

Respide Medeville red - very aromatic with clear wild cherry aroma, powerful with plenty of fruit and tannin in fine balance. Glorious effort. 90p.

Respide Medeville white - offered fresh aromas of apple and pear, fine intensity of fruit well supported by acidity, fine structure and smooth palate with nice finish. 90p.

Les Justices - nose and palate of sweet pineapple marinated in sugar, excellent acidity to support thrilling sweetness of fruit. 92p.

LABEGORCE AND MARQUIS D'ALESME

Both wines tasted at the property were as impressive as in Copenhagen on the 1st September this year. Well-deserved 93p for each wine!

 

Latest news

2017 VINTAGE LOOK VERY GOOD INDEED - HARVEST IS GOING ON NOW IN SPLENDID CONDITIONS

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NEW! PROFILE OF LA CABANNE, CERTAN DE MAY AND LEOVILLE LAS CASES, FIRST TWO PROPERTIES ARE FROM POMEROL AND THE THIRD ONE FROM ST.JULIEN.  DISCOVER THESE WHILE CHECKING "CHATEAU PROFILES"

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DURING TWO WEEKS FROM END OF MARCH TO MID-APRIL 2017, I TASTED APP. 420 BARREL SAMPLES OF 2016 VINTAGE. PLEASE READ MY REPORT WITH A LOT OF TASTING NOTES AND CONCLUSIONS IN CHAPTER "VINTAGES".

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HERE ARE MY TOP TEN WINES OF 2016

1. Montrose 1990 100p 2. Latour 2000 100p 3. Lafleur 2000 100p 4. Le Pin 1990 99p 5. Cheval Blanc 1990 99p 6. Lafite 2000 99p 7. Montrose 2010 99p 8. Yquem 1986 98p 9. Tertre Roteboeuf 2000 98p 10. Certan de May 1982 98p

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THAT'S THE WAY TO CELEBRATE 70TH BIRTHDAY - CHECK OUT THE ARTICLE WITH SAME TITLE IN THE CHAPTER "HORISONTAL AND VERTICAL TASTINGS"