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One of the most remarkable terroirs in Bordeaux - it's Tertre Roteboeuf's and there are not less than 4-5 layers of different kinds of clay under limestones; from light clay (grey one) to heavy clay (green/blue one)

 

Here you are - heavy clay at Tertre Roteboeuf

 

Francois Mitjavile - one of the most gifted winemakers not only in Saint-Émilion, but in whole Bordeaux

 

My very first meeting with Francois Mitjavile and Château Tertre Roteboeuf took place in May 1987, after I read wine-guru Robert Parker’s superlatives about this small property in his “The Wine Advocate”. Meeting with the articulate and eloquent Francois Mitjavile and his wine surpassed all my expectations. The things he explained about soil, grapes varieties and vinification, were so captivating to listen to, that four hours flew away at rocket speed. His wine was so eminent, that I fell in love with it at first sip!

 

This Grand Cru property, situated in commune St.Laurent-des-Combes, few kilometers south-east of the picturesque town Saint-Émilion, is a small vigneron house build in the 18th century. The name of this property can sound a little strange – it refers to the time many centuries ago, when vineyard and vines have not existed yet here. The hillside was used to feed the cattle then and the name "Roteboeuf" originates from that.

 

Francois Mitjavile took over Tertre Roteboeuf in 1978 from his father-in-low (Gilard family), and this vintage was the first one, he made entirely by himself. Before that, he worked 2 years at the famous Château Figeac, and afterwards spent several years at Tertre Roteboeuf, in order to learn as much as possible about wine.

His breakthrough on the wine scene was 1985-vintage. A new cult-wine was born, and since then the quality has improved all the time, so now Tertre Roteboeuf can easily compete with Premiers Grand Cru Classés in  Saint-Émilion and the best 2. Crus Classés in Haut-Medoc, and even challenge First Growths.

 

 

TERTRE ROTEBOEUF

 

There are 5.7 ha of vines planted with 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Merlot-vines are on average 45 years old, while Cabernet Franc ones are 5 years older. The subsoil consists of four different kinds of clay, which are resting on the bed of lime-stones. This combination of subsoil which is typical for the majority of vineyard in Saint-Émilion “Côtes” (slopes), is described as “cold soil”, because clay needs a long time to be warmed up, and lime-stones are always humid and cold. It means that grapes get the opportunity to get maximum advantage of the sun and reach perfect maturity very late. In the really good vintages, you will often see in Tertre Roteboeuf’s vineyard, that grapes are not really ripe in the skins (lacking phenolic ripeness). When skins are ripe, then grapes end containing sugar that corresponds to 14-15% alcohol, and "everybody" is happy.

 

This cold soil is just like created for Merlot, but not for Cabernet Sauvignon, which rather prefers the so-called “hot soil” (gravel and quartz pebbles, which reflect sun-heat at vines), who is present in Haut-Medoc and Graves.

Francois Mitjavile waits until very late with harvest – the grapes must be perfectly ripe, resulting in raisin-like lusciousness (Tertre Roteboeuf’s trademark). He risks thereby, that his grapes will be destroyed, if the bad weather comes. Until now, the Gods of weather have been quite nice to him – several of Francois Mitjavile’s vintages could easily have been labeled “vendange tardive”.

 

This very late harvest combined with long alcoholic fermentation and extraction at 35°C, should result in powerful, sappy and well-structured wine with much fruit-sweetness and  meatiness, where fruit and tannin make an extremely harmonious “mariage”. Fermentation at 35°C is bounded with a great risk of whole thing turning to acetic acid, but Francois Mitjavile says, that “his” yeast cells easily can cope with so high fermentation temperature. Another thing, which is also characteristic for his wine-making, is the low yield per ha – max. 36 hl.

 

He will very much have personality and character of soil-conditions in his wine, even if this costs him maybe some complexity, but don't want to keep same style every vintage at any price. “Let us see, what soil and weather have cooked together this year, and get the best possible out of it. The miracle comes first of all from Mother Nature”, he says.

 

In mid 90's, he was presented for a following statement from a taster: “Monsieur Mitjavile, in 1988 you made an elegant wine and in 1989 an opulent wine”. The answer came immediately, “I am not responsible!”.

 

Francois Mitjavile stands rock solid by his views. An oenologist’s advice to filter the super-concentrated 1989, because it would leave a lot of deposit (so what?), was turned down immediately.

 

What's really the secret behind Tertre Roteboeuf’s and Roc de Cambes’ success? All the work Francois Mitjavile does, is extremely well thought out, it is his love to wine and intuition who drives him. In addition to it, he has a lot of courage and self-belief. FrancoisMitjavile takes often risks, which other winemakers in Bordeaux do not dare. At the same time, he is incredibly self-confident and focused. This makes him a really complex winemaker, whose skills are close to genius-like. Francois Mitjavile does actually walk in the vineyard during the night, with his hands on his back and talking lovingly to the vines.

 

It is very obvious, that Tertre Roteboeuf and Roc de Cambes have Francois Mitjavile’s personal “signature”, because the style of both wines is different, compared to many wines in Bordeaux. This different style (raisin-like lusciousness and lots of perfectly ripe fruit) acts like ultra strong magnet on many wine-lovers, resulting in enormous demand.

 

Since 1994-vintage, he removed word “Châteaux” from the label at both wines. He thought maybe, that this famous word sounded too pretentiously and did not fit in his way of working.

 

Today, he is acknowledged and respected by the majority of château-owners in Bordeaux (the big “guns” included), but this was absolutely not the case in the end of 80’s. At that time, he was considered as an odd person with strange ideas. More winemakers of his kind and Bordeaux has absolutely nothing to fear.

 

I've visited Tertre Roteboeuf in 1987, 1988, 1990, 1993 and every year since 1995. Every visit has been not only a great experience, but also a learning one. Not only because of his magnifique wines, but also by the fact that Francois Mitjavile is very cultivated person and knows immensely much about other things than wine,  like for example culture and politics.

 

 

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2008 (barrel sample) 95-96p

 

Tasted twice - last time in October 2009. Consistent notes. Francois Mitjavile did it once again! Magnifique wine, sensual, full of dark fruit like blueberries, blackberries and black cherries. Opulent, sophisticated, excellent depth and excellent balance. Smooth like honey on the aftertaste.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2007 (barrel sample) 92p

 

Tasted three times - last time in March 2009. Consistent notes. Aromatic, round wine, quite fleshy, showing silky fruit and silky tannins and finishing soft and tasty. Very seductive wine with delightful balance.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2006 95p

 

Tasted four times - last time in April 2009. Consistent notes. Black red. Strong aroma of black cherries and blueberries, delicious fruit sweetness, silky tannins, refined and formidably structured. Yet again one more proof of Francois Mitjavile’s incredible skills as winemaker. 2016-2020.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2005 99p

 

Tasted nine times - last time in October 2009. Consistent notes. Black red, strong aroma of dark cherries and blueberries, stunningly luscious, silky tannins, refined and sophisticated everywhere in this wine. Enormously rich and multidimensional. A dream wine for a winelover! A legend already and probably the best vintage ever produced here. This wine has been already ethernal from its birth. 2015-2025.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2004 94p

 

Tasted five times - last time in March 2009. Consistent notes. Once again Francois Mitjavile delivers incredibly sensual and sophisticated wine with perfectly ripe black fruit, impeccably balanced and with delightful aftertaste. Great wine. 2014-2018.


Tertre Roteboeuf 2003 91-92p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2007. Not consistent notes. Dark red. In April 2007 this wine was marked both in terms of aroma and taste, of the extreme heat, Bordeaux experienced during August and September. Dark red. Heated fruit everywhere but not overripe. Plummy flavors. Well balanced wine with fine length and lovely structure. However, imho this vintage isn't typical for the property. 2012-2018.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2002 90p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2007. Consistent notes. Very aromatic with lovely aroma of red fruit. Captivating and charming wine, light and ready to drink. 2008-2014.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2001 93-95p

 

Tasted  three times - last time in April 2009. Not consistent notes. This wine was really a stunner with its "eyecatching" aromatic performance. Sophisticated with impeccable balance, perfectly ripe berries everywhere and long lingering aftertaste.  But in April 2009 it appeared more spicy, more red fruit and a bit edgy tannins. 2011-2021.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 2000 97p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2007. Consistent notes. A slightly lighter, less rich and a bit less sophisticated wine compared to 2005 vintage. Nevertheless, this wine is a master class and simply fantastic.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1998 98p

  

Tasted twice - last time in June 2000. Consistent notes.This wine’s complexity, richness and raisiny lusciousness was simply overwhelming. Fabulous aroma of superbly concentrated berries with rarely seen degree of depth and finesse. Extremely dense on the palate and with aftertaste, which lasts for several minutes. It was like driving in a expensive sports-caret (Porsche or Lamborghini), which only costed half the normal price!

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1994 86p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2007. Not consistent notes. Even magician touch of Francois Mitjavile couldn't help this vintage that much. The awful weather conditions and rain made wine diluted, a bit edgy and light. Drink it soon.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1993 86p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2007. Not consistent notes. Same impression as 1994.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1991 88p

 

Tasted in April 2002. Quite a big surprise considering how difficult this vintage was to make due to spring frost and rain during harvest. Full of life, surprisingly well-concentrated, harmonious and with pleasant and tasty fruit. Should absolutely be consumed before the end of 2007.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1990 97p

 

Taste three times - last time in June 2000. Consistent notes. In a way it reminded of 1989, but had more fruit intensity, more concentration and more richness. What a class act! Still 10-12 years to go.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1989 95p

 

Tasted  five times - last time in December 2006. Consistent notes. Still not fully developed. Sun-ripe fruit and fat tannin complementing each other perfectly, deep structure, sophisticated on the palate and with long aftertaste, although with bitter sensation in the end.  Strikingly fine wine. Can be consumed now but will be on top in the next 3-5 years.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1988 93p

 

Tasted twice - last time in March 2000. Consistent notes. A incredibly entertaining wine with beautiful balance, perfectly ripe raspberry and cherry fruit with raisiny scent and great intensity. Lovely structure and impressive length on the palate. Just delicious - can easily hold on for additional 3-5 years.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1987 89p

 

Tasted in October 2007. Really nice wine, elegant, raisiny, still very much alive. Fine winemaking. Perfect to drink now.

 

Tertre Roteboeuf 1981 89p

 

Tasted in October 2007. Yield was only 11 hl/ha! Red brown in color, still fresh, round and in fine balance. Subtle, raisiny, elegant, spicy raspberry fruit. Fine quality. Perfect to drink now too.

 

 

CHÂTEAU ROC DE CAMBES

 

In the beginning of 1987, Francois Mitjavile received a telephone call from a close friend. “Francois, there is a very interesting property for sale in Côtes de Bourg”. He took to Roc de Cambes next day, looked at the site in pouring rain, put his finger in the soil and analyzed the “sample”. After an ultra short thinking, he said: “I am buying this”.

 

The district of Côtes de Bourg is situated about 30 km south-west of Saint-Émilion, at the right bank of Dordogne-river. Most of the wines here rustic and simple, but you also find a handful of well-made, concentrated and complex wines at reasonable prices.

Roc de Cambes’ vineyard is situated at slopes creating almost an oval circle, down to the valley. The vineyard is separated from Dordogne’s right bank by Domaine de Cambes (a part of original Roc de Cambes – this wine is sold separately), who’s vineyard stretches from the slope and almost down the water. There are 12 has of vines, planted with 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. The soil here is a blend of chalk and clay, vines are on average 50 years old. The vineyard is lying close to the river, which ensures a stable micro-climate, and prevents either winter-frost or summer-frost from attacking vines here.

 

When Francois Mitjavile bought Roc de Cambes, it was in quite bad shape. He put renovation and modernizing in full swing immediately. Experiences gained from work at Tertre Roteboeuf were the main reason, that in just two years, it succeeded for him to make Roc de Cambes an unrivalled top-wine of the district.

 

 

Roc de Cambes 2008 (barrel sample) 90-91p

 

Tasted twice - last time in October 2009. Consistent notes. This wine was very powerful, strong, very intense on the nose with blueberries and black cherries, with splendid balance and firm aftertaste containing ripe flavours. Terrific effort.

 

Roc des Cambes 2007 (barrel sample) 88p

 

Tasted three times - last time in April 2009. Consistent notes. It had nice aromas of black cherries and blackcurrants, nice structure and was pretty well-balanced. Very seductive and charming wine.

 

Roc des Cambes 2006 90p

 

Tasted four times - last time in April 2009. Consistent notes. Dark red. It had beautiful aromas of blackberries and black cherries, splendidly structured and harmonious. Francois Mitjavile’s brillant skills as winemaker are pretty obvious here! Big, big success for the vintage.

 

Roc des Cambes 2005 93p

 

Tasted seven times - last time in October 2009. Consistent notes. This is without question the best vintage I've ever tasted from this property. It was a wine, which had amazingly aromatic fruit, fat but silky tannins, beautiful balance and which tasted just glorious. What a joy! Pure delicacy to enjoy in the next 15 years.

 

Roc des Cambes 2004 88-89p

 

Tasted four times - last time in April 2009. Consistent notes. Strong and spicy wine, full-bodied, black cherries everywhere. Fine length and fine aftertaste.

 

Roc des Cambes 2003 89p

 

Tasted twice - last time in April 2007. Consistent notes. Intense, spicy and aromatic wine with no sign of excessive dryness and overheated fruit. Francois Mitjavile can be proud of this one.

 

Roc de Cambes 2001 88p

 

Tasted in April 2009. Strong and spicy wine, full-bodied, black cherries everywhere. Fine length and fine aftertaste.

 

Roc de Cambes 1995 90p

 

Tasted twice - last time in April 2007. Consistent notes. Still young - opened first after 10 minutes in the glass. Aromatic berry fruit, well-structured with plenty of fine quality ingredients to build on. Long and powerful aftertaste.

 

Roc de Cambes 1990 92p

 

Tasted twice - last time in April 2007. Consistent notes. This was third vintage from this property under Francois Mitjavile's reign and a beautiful one. Incredibly delightful, aromatic, perfectly blanced wine with truffles and cherry compot. Utterly seductive and tasty. Fabulous stuff!

 

 

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