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BUSY TIME IN BORDEAUX
I spent 12 days in Bordeaux between the 2nd and 14th October 2008, visiting several chateaux and overlooking harvest 2008 at several properties. Here are my impressions.
Thursday, the 2nd October -arrived at Bordeaux on sligthly rainy afternoon and went quickly to D.d.Chevalier. tasted 2007, 2006, 2005 in both colours.
2007 red put some weight and is really a success for the vintage, 2007 white is a real blast and probably the best white vintage made by Olivier Bernard ever.
Both 2006 were more dry with some tannic edges, but classic ones for Chevalier.
2005 red is still improving with sophisticated touch, lot of ripe fruit and great length. 2005 white rivals for the moment 2007. It was beautifully scented wine with great ripeness of fruit and fatness on the palate.
During dinner I tasted among other wines stupendous 1928 red D.d.Chevalier with fabulous nose of truffles and surprisingly good 1968 D.d.Chevalier. Olivier Bernard explained that Claude Ricard (previous owner) already at that time made selection of grapes in the vineyard.
Olivier Bernard will probably finish the harvest of C.Sauvignon next week.
Friday, the 3rd October - rainy in the morning, sunny but cold weather. Went to Haut Brion/La Mission to taste 2007, 2006 and 2001 in red and their respective whites in same vintages, together with Turid Alcaras. Both 2007s in red have put on weight and got more complexity, but Haut Brion is still better wine. Both 2006s in red were classic with tobacco and leather nose, splendidly balanced, sophisticated and with great length. However once again Haut Brion was more concentrated and powerful. Both these wine were bottled June/July this year.
In 2001 vintage Haut Brion was clearly better wine with cedar tree, pencil, cigar box, refined and exquisetly balanced. Fabulous. La Mission wasn't as dense as HB and tasted significantly lighter.
Among whites, 2007 HB blanc and 2001 HB blanc were the best, with 2007 being extremely powerful and aromatic, while 2001 was very expressive, flamboyant and with fabulous depth. 2007 LHB was a tad lighter than HB but nearly as exceptional while 2001 LHB was quite discrete.
2006 whites were closed but it was obvious that they were lighter than 2007 and 2001 vintages.
Turid Alcaras told me that harvest of both colours of 2008 was still going on, difficult one with collecting grapes from different plots in the vineyards.
Saturday the 4th and Sunday the 5th October - some outbreaks of light rain, cold weather with some periods of sunshine(16° C) with really cool nights.
Monday, the 6th October - at last some sunny and warm weather (24° C). Went to Tertre Roteboeuf to taste TR and RdC in 2007, 2005 and 2004. 2006s had been bottled in September this year and therefore not tasted. Both 2007 became more fleshy and with more integrated flavours than in April this year. Both 2005s are still magnificent and it's a real thrill to taste so beautifully crafted wines.
Both 2004s were ripe, tannic, robust and strong. Splendid wines which will further improve in 5-7 years time.
Francois Mitjavile will start to harvest TR on Monday the 13th October.
Tuesday, the 7th October - sunny, 20° Celsius whole morning. La Croix St.Georges finished harvest by 1pm, just two hours before light rain came. He expected his Mertlots to be up to 2004 in quality. Certan de May finished their Merlots a couple of days ago whileVCC was still harvesting.
Harvest at La Croix St. Georges in Pomerol on 7th October 2008 - sorting table
Went to offices of Jean-Luc Thunevin in Saint-Emilion in the afternoon to taste Valandraud 2007, 2006 and 2005. The two first improved even further since October last year, and are great successes in their respective vintage. 2005 was of fabulous stuff, magnificently constructed and with an awful load of cerise griotte (wild cherries).
Next visit was at Clos Fourtet - tasted 2007, 2006, 2005 and 2004. Both 2007 and 2007 were improving, with 2007 being lush, seductive, round and extremely fruity, while 2006 being more structured, deeper and longer. 2005 was very powerful and quite oaky with excellent depth, structure and length. A keeper. 2004 confirmed that this last cheap vintage has produced very classic Bordeaux wines. Classy, ripe, great balance and great aftertaste.
Visited Château Canon on my way to Saint-Émilion train station - they were harvesting Merlot. The rain continued since then with heavy showers lasting for several minutes.
Harvest at Chateau Canon in Saint-Emilion on 7th October 2008 - double sorting table
This was the last heavy rain I experienced until the day of 14th October when left Bordeaux for Copenhagen.
Wednesday, the 8th October - sunshine all day, temperature not under 20 degrees Celsius.
Thursday, the 9th October - like 8th October, beautiful day, went to Haut Medoc. My first stop was Château Margaux. I asked kindly in my email to taste last four vintages and my wish was fulfilled. 2007 was as pretty and light on feet as slim ballerina, beatifully aromas of violets and roses, enchanting elegance and finesse. Seductive as h.... and improving. 2006 impressed with great intensity of flavours, power, refinement and sophisticated touch. Great classic for the property. Paul Pontalier tasted with me and he was entirely in love with this wine. 2005 was like eternal flame, pure poetry, radiating and shining. This vintage at Château Margaux has an incredible charisma. Angels sing....
2004 turned out to be another classic - perfectly ripe fruit, extremely elegant and finesse, fleshy and long. Wonderful staff. 1/3 or more of the price for 2005 and 2006.
We ate pickers lunch together with 200 pickers, but the last table was reserved for VIPs, including very-down-to-earth Corinne Metzeloupulous. Chäterau Margaux 2002 and Pavillon de Margaux 2002 were served to the lunch and both provided splendid drinking. Paul Pontalier was pretty satisfied with his Sauvignon Blanc which was harvested late, while his late ripening Merlot was brought in splendid quality. Cabernet Sauvignon was looking pretty fine too and Paul Pontalier expected to finish harvest around the 16th October. He compared 2008 to 2002, but I think it's understatement, since Merlots of his are much better in 2008.
At Château Beychevelle, its manager, Philippe Blanc was very happy too with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. He hoped to make something close to 2004. Expected to complete harvest this week.
Harvest at Chateau Beychevelle on the 9th October 2008 - picking grapes is a hard job! Nice boots!
Philippe Blanc, manager of Chateau Beychevelle, is well satisfied with quality of Cabernet Sauvignon - October 2008
Cabernet Sauvignon anno 2008 on the left and Petit Verdot anno 2008 on the right - Château Branaire in October 2008
Saturday, the 11th October - very warm day with uncovered sunshine.
Sunday, the 12th October - no rain but grey and warm day.
Monday, the 13th October - I'm at Chateau Nairac. A bit rain in the morning (vitamin for botrytis) but warm sunny for the rest of the day. Not so happy people at Nairac , because they lost as entire district 50-70% of grapes on night/morning of the 7th April. They realised the loss first one week later when the buds became black and fell off. 2006 Nairac was splendid with heavy botrytised aromas and full-bodied, while 2005 presented itself mind-boggling. Esquisse, made to make more immediate appeal and easier to understand, was splendid in 2007, 2005 and 2004. Nairac's winemaker Nicolas Tari-Heeter, expects yield/ha in 2008 to be arond 3 hl and a long, long harvest.
Muscadelle grapes showing first signs of botrytis attack (left/up). Doesn't it look like leopard skin? Château Nairac in October 2008
Vines stripped of grapes (right/below). Frost in April 2008 did severe damage here. Château Nairac in October 2008
Frost in April did also damage at Châterau Gilette, half a crop went dead. Gilette 1986 and 1985 were great, great examples of Sauternes wines, fresh and full af almonds dipped in Grand Marnier. Fantastic stuff.
Last visit - Raymond Lafon. Lost 50% grapes because of the frost. Tasted 2007, 2005, 2003, 2001, 1997, 1990 and 1988. 2007 became heavier and thicker, with better acidity than in april 2008. 2005 was marvellous but 2003 performed so extravagantly so I was stunned once again. 2001 was so stylish, classy and rich so you could think it wasn't thruth. 1997 was a great surprise, marvelous stuff and close to 2001 in quality. I preferred 1990 to 1988.