14 wines were tasted

Tasting of wines from Domaine Fabre in Copenhagen on the 26th January 2012

App. two weeks ago I participated in tasting of wines from Domaines Fabre, organized by Danish wine-merchant based in Copenhagen, Philipson Wine. The owner, Vincent Fabre, presented wines from his four chateaux (he owns 6 in all), during both press tasting and wine dinner.

I tasted following wines:

2010 Fonseche AOC Haut Medoc

2010 Le Chéne AOC Haut Medoc

2010, 2009 and 2005 La Tonnelle Cru Bourgeois

2010, 2009, 2000 and 1990 Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois

2010, 2009, 2006, 2005 and 2000 Lamothe Cissac Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois Vieilles Vignes

Now to tasting notes:

2010 Fonseche AOC Haut Medoc - fruity and aromatic, soft raspberries, fresh and nice acidity, round, soft and very pleasant easy drinking. Really nice one. Half Merlot, half C.S. 87p.

2010 Le Chéne AOC Haut Medoc AOC Haut Medoc - more intensity on the nose, more structure and longer aftertaste, than in Fonseche. Vines are twice as older, 55% C.S, 40% M and 5% P.Verdot. Very tasty blueberries. Very good indeed. 88p.

2010, 2009 and 2005 La Tonnelle Cru Bourgeois - 2010 is a step up in everything compared to 2010 Fonseche, lot of blueberries, fresh acidity and I really like the tannins, which were ripe, fatty and soft. 89p.
2009 version had in my opinion riper tannins than 2010 and was otherwise similar to 2010 in style. 89p.
2005 reminded a lot of 2009 with its fine fruit sweetnes, fine balance and soft aftertaste, but was less concentrated. 89p. Cépage here is 60% C.S, 35% M and 5% PV.

2010, 2009, 2000 and 1990 Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois - 2010 showed deep and intense aromas of grated chocolate, blacberries, complexity, captvating sweetness of berry fruit, discrete ripe tannins, splendid balance and long smooth finish. Impressive stuff! 91p.
2009 version wasn't as intense and concentrated as 2010, but you really couldn't complain about this wine's build-up and captivating touch. 90p.
2000 had lot of captivating black fruit, was pleasant and charming with fine balance, but inho it suffered a bit of obvious big yield as I found this wine somewhat diluted. 89p. Magnum of this wine tasted better during dinner, strong, concentrated and with long finish. 90p.
1990 tasted from magnum showed some age with plummy flavors, ripe fruit and ripe tannins. Has survived the time machine with bravour. 88p.
30 years old vines here and cépage; 58% C.S, 35 M, 2% C.F and 5% P.V.

2010, 2009, 2006, 2005 and 2000 Lamothe Cissac Lamothe Cissac Cru Bourgeois Vieilles Vignes - 2010 was a stellar wine, far more creamy than normal cuvée, long, deep and with great long finish. Tannins here were a revelation - stunning ripeness and fatness. Great balance here. Utterly impressive wine! 93p.
2009 tasted a tad lighter and less intense than in 2010, but no complains here. Splendid effort. 91p.
2006 was potent, strong, lot of black berries, powerful fruit and powerful tannins, the latter ripe á point, very fine balance and long finish. Splendid effort. 92p.
2005 tasted for me better than 2009 with more concentration and more ripeness of fruit and tannins. Softer than 2006 but equally impressive. 92p.
2000 reminded a lot of 2005. Impressive stuff again! 92p.
VV version is only made in very good vintages and comes from the parcel of 60 years old vines on average, cepage - 75% C.S, 15% M and 10% PV.

Very interesting tasting and great cadeau to Vincent Fabre for keeping these tannins so ripe, round and fresh, assuring splendid balance, keeping fine style and making wines in thoughtful way. His wines are great qpr for money.

For one I didn't need to worry about unripe, harsh and acidy tannins attacking my teeth.

Btw, Lamothe Cissac is situated only 4 km away from Lafite, close to the village of Cissac.

www.domaines-fabre.fr   

LA CABANNE IN COPENHAGEN - 8TH MARCH 2012

On the 8th March 2012 I participated in very interesting tasting (vertical of La Cabanne) of Pomerol wines, organized by big Danish wine merchant based in Copenhagen, Philipson Wine. Here, we are talking about a traditionally made wine stuff for long keeping as it evolves slowly, without modern style gimmicks.

Francois Estager presented wines in very informative and easy understanding way, and wines were pretty splendid too. Affordable and great qpr.

I met Francois’ father Jean-Pierre Estager in 1988 and he helped me to arrange visit at Certan de May, which could only be visited at that time if you had the right connections. Estager family settled in Pomerol in 1952.

La Cabanne is situated few hundred meters from Clinet and Bourgneuf, where subsoil is rich in iron dirt or a hard clay like greasy stones with clear brown lines of iron oxide.


2007 Domaine de Compostelle – second wine of La Cabanne. Light, round and charming with nice fruit, pleasant and already drinkable. 85p.

2009 Domaine de Compostelle – fresh, full of aromas of black berries, very attractive and uncomplicated. Delicious to drink already now. 87p

2006 Haut Maillet – this property consists of several parcels spread around whole appellation. It reveals truffle aroma on the nose and ripe cherries, fresh acidity, splendid balance, length and fine firm aftertaste. Splendid wine. 90p.

2006 La Cabanne – more depth, intensity and better structure here than In 2006 Haut Maillet. Splendid wine as well. 91p.

2005 La Cabanne – very intense, fat ripe fruit, beautifully balanced, dense and finely grained tannins, long caressing aftertaste. Excellent wine with great future. 92p.

2001 La Cabanne – not that different from 2006 version, slightly more depth, concentration and stronger structure. Longer at aftertaste as well. This wine had a very significant flavor of truffles and the most concentrated one of all wines tasted. 91+p.

1998 La Cabanne (magnum) – the most backward wine of the evening, resembling 2001 a lot. We have to wait. 91p.

1989 La Cabanne (magnum) – still young and powerful wine with perfectly ripe fruit with catching sweetness, fabulous balance and long aftertaste. Long life waits ahead. Impressive. 93+p.

1975 La Cabanne (magnum) – supple and potent at same time, strong, black fruit, powerful tannin and equally powerful fruit. Metallic (truffle) scent coming from “crasse de fer” (iron dirt) which La Cabanne has a lot of in its subsoil. Long finish. Splendid stuff for long ageing and well worthy 92p.

1971 La Cabanne (magnum) – a bit tired, light, round and charming. Should be consumed soon. Was at its peak some years ago. 88p.

1964 La Cabanne – this wine was recorked in 2008. Last time I tasted was in 1988 together with Jean-Pierre Estager and we also tasted 1961 La Cabanne at same occasion. Both were stunningly expressive Pomerols at 24 years of age. 24 years later, in 2012 this 1964 hasn’t lost anything of its vitality and energy. Truffles anywhere. Tannins were still fresh with subtle fundament of acidity, formidable balance, depth and length. Will be alive and kicking for 5-10 more years or maybe longer. Great example of unbelievable long life span Bordeaux wines are capable of. Philipson Wine called this wine a meditation one – yes it truly was. 96p. 

LEOVILLE POYFERRE IN COPENHAGEN - 3RD AND 5TH SEPTEMBER 2012

2011 Leoville Poyferre (tasted on the 5th September 2012 at Beyerman event)

Very complex and long on the nose and palate. Aromatic black fruit, well-balanced, excellent structure and long firm aftertaste. Excellent for the vintage. 94p.

2007 Leoville Poyferre (tasted on the 5th September 2012 at Beyerman event)

Very nice, attractive and charming wine with good stuffing, light-footed fruit and tannin and soft finish. Very enjoyable to drink right now. 88p.

2005 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

This wine has excellent nose of black cherries/blueberries, intense and fragrant. Long on the palate with strong structure. Silky fruit and tannin. Long fruity finish. Fabulous wine but in my opinion not as concentrated as 2000 LP. Fabulous stuff anyway. 95+p.

2003 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Powerful and tightly structured wine. On the nose you can feel the heat of the vintage with warm plums, but they’re neither stewed nor cooked. You can also feel the heat of the vintage on the palate, meaning tannin being rather dry on the finish and not as fresh as in 2000 and 2005. A bit controversial wine but the quality is fine. 92p.

2000 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Powerful wine, which possesses excellent structure and stunning balance. Tightly build with great intensity, perfect balance and powerful finish. There’s a lot of potential in this wine, which means great future. 97+p. This was the first vintage where LP’s present oenologist, Isabelle Davin, participated in.

1999 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

Taking the problems of this vintage into account, LP has made nice wine, however the fruit isn’t as ripe as in 1996 and other ingredients are on the light side. Ready to drink. 88p.

1996 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

It’s elegant and well-shaped wine with soft and round tannin. Aromatic and tasty ripe fruit. Very nice fruity finish. Very approachable at the moment, which indicates that this wine is at its peak. 92p.

1989 Leoville Poyferre (tasted during dinner on the 3rd September 2012)

From magnum. Intense truffles on the nose with soft fruit and tannin, round and very well put together, lot of finesse and splendid balance. Delicious and excellent wine. 93p.

Before the tasting of LP on Monday the 3rd September, there were served 2007 Moulin Riche and 2003 Le Crock, both Cru Bourgeois owned by Cuvelier family. Moulin Riche was very attractive and catchy wine, light, round and very drinkable, while 2003 Le Crock (St. Estephe) was quite fresh and vibrant for the vintage with no sign of warm/hot undertones in fruit and tannin. Very good indeed.

Anne Cuvelier explained that soil in St.Estephe has a large percentage of clay, which kept water reserves from spring throughout summer.

2011 VINTAGE REVISITED - 5TH SEPTEMBER 2012 IN COPENHAGEN

Last Wednesday, 27 chateaux from Bordeaux visited Copenhagen to present their 2011 vintage from barrel and one older vintage. They have done this trip since 2002 with Bordeaux based negociant, Beyerman. Compared to last year, neither Montrose, nor Pontet Canet, nor Troplong Mondot found their way to Copenhagen, Beyerman explained their absence with wish of going on their own meaning going alone and presenting their wines at Winemaker’s dinner.

I managed to taste 60 wines during 2.5 hours and my general impression was, that 2011 is good to very good vintage, better for sure than 2008, developing well and not showing austerity and edgy corners. Several wines benefitted from further staying in oak. All in all it's a very useful vintage and will be a great value for money when it hit the shelves in the end of 2013 with prices not higher than primeur ones.

Here are my TNs:


D’Aiguilhe 2011 – powerful, tasty black cherries, fine fruit and structure, meaty and fine length. Fine effort. 90p.
D’Aiguilhe 2007 – earthy flavors, compact, strong, well-balanced with fine intensity and length. 88p.


D’Armailhac 2011 – better ripeness here than in 2008, tannins are softer, fine finish. 91p.

D’Armailhac 2008 – powerful, strong and concentrated, spicy flavors, certain dryness on the finish. Needs time to soften. 89p.


Beauregard 2011 - was very intense on the nose, tight, aromatic, with dark berries, nice velvety finish and oak very well integrated with fruit. 90p.

Beauregard 2009 – strong with sweet cherries, lot of stuffing, splendid structure and meaty finish. Fine effort. 91p.


Beychevelle 2011 - as impressive as during primeur week og maybe even better. Pretty aromatic and subtle wine, full-bodied. Splendid aftertaste with a lot of flavours. Graceful and stylish. Stupendous wine. 93+p.

Beychevelle 2005 - fabulous thick aroma of dark berries, awesome great length, balance and concentration, formidable depth and aftertaste, and it’s full load of finesse, elegance and graciosity. Seamless wine. 95+p.


Branaire 2011 – improved since tasting it 5 months ago. More concentrated with silky fruit and tannin, fine balance and smooth finish. 90p.

Branaire 2008– lack a bit of ripeness compared to 2011, otherwise it is well made wine with very good structure and length. 89p.


Camensac 2011 - aromatic ripe dark berries on the nose, seductive and charming, silky tannin, well- balanced. Fine aftertaste. 90p.

Camensac 2005 – of course more intensity, concentration and better structure here than in 2011. Really fine effort for the vintage from this property. 91p.


Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2011 - offered fine nose of cherries, fat ripe tannin, splendid depth and persistent aftertaste. Impressive effort. 93p.

Canon-La-Gaffeliere 2007– nicely made, good tannin, nice structure, attractive and round. Firm aftertaste. 88p.


Chasse Spleen 2011 - offered excellent nose of black fruit with depth and intensity. Silky tannin, finesse, intense on palate and persistent fruity aftertaste. Splendid effort. 92p.

Chasse Spleen 2007 – aromatic, round and charming, very drinkable wine right now. 87p.


La Clemence 2011 - strong, tannic wine with robust structure, fine depth and firm finish. On the verge of overextraction. 89p.

La Clemence 2002 – soft and light wine, which is beginning to falter. 86p.


Clerc Milon 2011 - showed big concentration and strong structure, tight and intense on the palate, splendid balance and long finish. Superb wine. 92p.

Clerc Milon 2008 – not that different from 2011, but less concentrated and ripeness of both fruit and tannin is less apparent. 90p.


Clos L’Oratoire 2011 - offered fine nose of cherries, seductive style, splendid balance, elegance and smooth caressing aftertaste. 91-92p.

Clos L’Oratoire 2007 – charming and round with soft tannin. Ready to drink. 87p.


Coutet 2011 impressed a lot with great depth, lot of sweetness and corresponding acidity, stunning balance and long, long lingering aftertaste. Simply great effort. 94+p.

Coutet 1997– Great stuff. Still fresh with intense botrytized aromas of crème brulée and heather honey, fine acidity and strong honeyed finish. 15 years old wine at its peak. 93p.

Destieux 2011 - strong and sappy wine, ripe and tasty black berries, fine balance and long finish. Well-made wine. 91p.

Destieux 2008 – aromatic and powerful wine, strong structure, meaty, persistent finish.90p.


Domaine de Chevalier red 2011 – tasted better than during primeur. Very aromatic, great minerality, splendid depth and length, strong structure, meaty texture and smooth aftertaste. 93p.

Domaine de Chevalier red 2005 – this wine was really impressive. Excellent nose of intense black cherries, palate coated with layers of perfectly ripe black fruit, great freshness, excellent balance and great finish. Fabulous stuff indeed! 95p.

Domaine de Chevalier white 2011 - performed strong and powerful, lots of acacia flower, apple and citron grass. Great structure, depth and length on the palate, rich, great balance and strong finish. As always an utterly impressive stuff from this property! 96+p.


Ferriere 2011 - was tight and intense wine with dense structure, fine concentration of dark fruit, fat tannin, harmonious and firm finish. 92p.

Ferriere 2004 – fine intensity of aromatic cherries, fine depth and balance, long finish. Well-made wine. 91p.


Gazin 2011- pretty elegant and soft, fine cherry aroma, fine balance and fruity finish.91p.

Gazin 2006 –very nice wine, charming nose, nice structure, good tannin. Seems to mature rather quickly. 88p.


Giscours 2011 – this barrel sample showed even better than in April this year. Powerful and intense with lot of black cherries and cocoa, strong fat tannin, very well constructed, complex and with long finish. Stunning wine. 94p.

Giscours 2004 – strong and very perfumed wine, excellent structure, length and finish. All the best from Margaux commune is here and it makes you very happy. Very seductive wine! 92p.


Haut Bages Liberal 2011 - had oaky undertones, quite intense fruit, nice backbone and structure, and persistent finish. 89p.

Haut Bages Liberal 2008 – very similar to 2011. 89p.


Haut Bailly 2011 - was a rich and powerful wine with strong aroma of black cherries, great complexity, depth and length. Excellent future in sight. 93+p.

Haut Bailly 2007 – charming, round, very nice concentration and balance. Already drinkable. 87p.


Lagrange 2011 – was intense on the nose with black berries, with good grip on the palate with tasty fruit and firm aftertaste. Well-made wine. 90p.

Lagrange 2009 – riper fruit, more stuffing and longer than 2011, silky tannin, very attractive wine. 91p.


Larrivet Haut Brion red 2011 - had deliciously intense fruity nose with cherries, solid backbone, splendid depth and length. Persistent and firm finish. 92p.

Larrivet Haut Brion red 2009 – stronger, more intense and sweeter fruit than in 2011. 92+p.

Larrrivet Haut Brion white 2011 - was elegant and refined on the nose and palate with lot of finesse. Splendid acidity, great aromas of pineapple, apple and acacia flower, stylish and classy. 93p.

Lascombes 2011 - showed great style and finesse. Very aromatic with black berries, excellent balance and complexity. Long caressing finish. True Margaux style. 93p.

Lascombes 2009 – more power here than in 2011, more sweet fruit and tannin, complex with long and sweet finish. 93+p.


Latour Martillac red 2011 - offered splendid nose of ripe cherries, splendid depth and intensity. Silky on the palate with remarkable structure, fine length and smooth aftertaste. Fine effort indeed. 92p.

Latour Martillac red 2005 – excellent wine, perfectly ripe black fruit (cherries and blueberries), rich in flavors and nuances, long and smooth finish. Great effort. 93p.

Latour Martillac white 2011 - was oaky with lot of acidity. Great intensity of apple and citron grass, freshness, great length on the palate and long finish. Terrific wine. 93-94p.


Leoville Poyferre 2011 - very complex and long on the nose and palate. Aromatic blackfruit, well-balanced, excellent structure and long firm aftertaste. Excellent for the vintage. 94p.

Leoville Poyferre 2007 – very nice, attractive and charming wine with good stuffing, light-footed fruit and tannin and soft finish. Very enjoyable to drink right now. 88p.


Phelan Segur 2011 showed much freshness with aromatic and spicy fruit, splendid structure, silky tannin and long finish. 91p.

Phelan Segur 2008 - – good intensity of blackcurrants, good grip, nice length and firm aftertaste. 88p.


Smith Haut Lafitte red 2011 – strong, meaty, very intense aroma of black cherries, complex, fine concentration and grip. Firm finish. Splendid. 93p.

Smith Haut Lafitte red 2007 – fruity, soft, round and charming. Ready to drink. 87p.

Smith Haut Lafitte white 2010 – aromatic with excellent acidity, apple, lemon grass and acacia flower. Remarkable balance, strong structure and long finish. 95p.


Talbot 2011-offered aromatic fruit (black cherries), were quite intense and powerful on the palate, with fine structure, balance and finish. 92+p.


Du Tertre 2011 - improved significantly since primeur tasting in April. Strong and powerful, rich, elegant and longon the palate, excellent structure. Very impressive effort. 93p.

Du Tertre 2006 – not unlike 2011, slightly less powerful, but complex and with long finish. Fine effort. 92p.

CHATEAU LAFLEUR VERTICAL IN COPENHAGEN - FRIDAY THE 14TH SEPTEMBER 2012

Warm-up:

1. Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet 2005 – fine fruit and acidity, melted butter, fine structure and finish. 91p.

2. Tattinger Comtes de Champagne 2002 – Elegant, sophisticated, much finesse, long finish. 92p.

3. Diebolt-Vallois La Fleur du Passion 2004 – more stuffing here than in Tattinger, strong, meaty, powerful, excellent bubbles, finished persistently and firm. 93p.

Then some stickies to cheese/sorbets:

1. Yquem 1979 – fine candied fruit of orange peel and dried apricots, on the light side, elegant and with medium finish. 90p.

2. Yquem 1918 – very dark brown, full of toffee, crème brulée, fine acidity, excellent structure, long and honeyed finish. Excellent and well-preserved wine, impressive experience. Negociant bottling. 93p.


Intermezzo 2 - showstopper

Another burgundy wine was served at our table. Who among the gang sponsored this bottle, I don’t know. And I didn’t ask either. It was served blind and it was very easily to detect as unmistakably Burgundy wine Because of this wine’s taste, style and richness, and guesses from others about this wine being from Cotes de Nuits, I guessed Chambertin from A. Rousseau and I guessed correct. It turned out to be 2002 vintage. Very stylish and sophisticated. Incredibly aromatic and stunningly balanced. Long, long caressing finish. 96p.

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